legacycentral bbs

That sucks, though I don't even know what a banjo bolt is. :| A banjo bolt is a bolt with a hole in the center and on it sides. They are commonly used on brake calipers to connect the brake line to the caliper, and any other application that needs fluid to pass through a bolt http://volvospeed.com/...

The fuggly one on top I was able to get out with a can of dust off and a stud remover. The one that was cut off. I tried welding nuts to it but it just made it shorter. Drilled it of center. Filled the hole again. Drilled it right the second time. Now I just have to tap it. But I can't do anymore to...

If you can't find one local you can always take some cardboard and cut it to shape. As long as you tighten it up tight where it won't leak the cardboard won't burn. If the exhaust leaks then the cardboard will be toast.

When I had a problem sort of like yours. My turbo drain hose was leaking all the oil out. But of course the previous owner had a 1" heater hose zip tied on to the block and turbo. With all the PCV system blocked off. So when the block build pressure it shot all the oil out of the turbo drain ho...

Trust me....drilling out those studs is not easy. You're best bet is heating the crap out of the stud with MAPP gas.....propane won't cut it. Hehe, I think I got just the thing for the studs. Oxy-Acet :twisted: . But yea, I think I am going to just fix then sell this on the parts part of the forum ...

I have a Vf10 and I snapped the studs or just one and toasted another. Well anyways I was just wondering if it is worth my while to buy a 16g for $200 and sell the Vf10 for whatever and let the next person fix it. Any who, here is a pic for your viewing pleasure. http://i342.photobucket.com/albums/o...

Yup, lookin' good. Wish I could of had mine installed today. Damn turbo studs snapped

One thing i learned when i was goofing off at frantic four with eric is to put a couple of switches on my dashboard wired up to those two plugs. they are very convenient for use instead of taking the dashboard panel out or reaching up there with a flash light. Mehh? I never had to take the dash pan...

Your second sentence confused me. You can run this with the chip or without it. Don't use the SAFC2 with it. It will be useless because the pp6 can do what it can plus more.

Slower or inconsistant? The light will only flash when it detects a pulse in the wire. So it's either your coil going out, wire is not connected or going bad, or your plug is bad.

Ahh, koo koo. Well Everything works now. I just had to keep refreshing it till it connected. Took about 4-5 start and stops to get it to go. Thanks for the info XD

"Does it get good gas mileage? The civic of course. " <-- Joke. Welcome to the board

But nobodies actually done it? Why not I wonder? I didn't have 4 grand on me at the time. It sucked :( Hey dude I'm not rich either, that's why I look for OEM upgrades that you can just take off the shelf of used parts on put on your car. Like did you know that a Subaru Trebeca or however you spell...

ahh, ok. Haven't got the thumping, thunking, or shimmy yet out of the axle yet. But I guess I got something to look forward to.

Uhhh, what's a cheap axle? Got a new one from Advance for $80 with tax and the damn shaft was thicker. Would it have "Made In China" on it?

GodSquadMandrake wrote:
But nobodies actually done it? Why not I wonder?

I didn't have 4 grand on me at the time. It sucked

sounds like a CV (constant velocity) joint. Check to see if your boots are torn.

EDIT

Sorry, forgot about the second part of your post. Check this post out for the Manuals http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=14485

I was also wondering. How did you separate you transmission and engine with out taking the TOB pin out? Took the Pressure plate bolts off through the starter hole?

xoomer wrote:no.. Realized I need a long needle nose to get to the pin.....

If the threads weren't striped out of the pin. You could have used a timing cover bolt and pulled on that with pliers.

It honestly doesn't look like you will have the space to put the Recirculation valve in a stock like position. You might be able to cut your original hose and get a pipe between the spliced and still have the original hole for the recir. valve. I think that would be a little easier to do. Especially...

Welcome back and thanks. I started to read through yours then the text just started to slowly turn to lines

Cut off muffler. Get a clamp and pipe , I think it was 2", from your local Auto parts place and install.

The visual is basically so they don't have "their" time wasted. So many people have to get their vehicles tested. It's just easier to turn people away when something doesn't look right. Rather than hooking it up and finding out it failed anyways because it was hollowed out or shields are j...

I see all these do it yourself FCD some with the fuel cut set hire or just no fuel cut at all. The thing that I'm wondering is if I don't care for safety this or safety that. I mean I do have a boost gauge. Can't I just put a .5-1 Watt 4.3V Zener Diode between the output and ground wires of the MAP ...

You shouldn't really replace the parts untill you went through the diagnostic part of it. Like for some reason the tps plug could be off and that is why the two codes are thrown for it..... Not saying it is unplugged but if it is I didn't do it :twisted: . The canister purge solenoid you might want ...