legacycentral bbs

I think the rubber piece and the plastic piece are there for the exact same purpose....

I was trying to fix mine and seem to have burned out one of the traces on the board.

The BBs are referring to piston size. The 48s refer to bearing sizes, IIRC. Is it a complete motor? If so, then it depends on what you're putting it in. Basically, anything '91-'94 harness-wise will work. I think the '91 had a slightly different plug setup on the engine harness, but all the sensors ...

I can grab a pic of my setup soon if ya want. I am using one from an early CRX, but it is not the whole pillar replacement. Only 2 gauges, but it was pretty damn easy to fit (used a heat gun to tweak one corner, but other than that it fit about perfect), and would likely work with the auto seatbelts...

This is awesome. I am definitely gonna be in for one of these.

Add another tentatively interested party to the tally.

I am running one as well, but it looks like josh hit all the points.

Thank you GM for poisoning the well for diesel vehicles in the US.......

I believe the new turbo beetles and maybe some of the other turbo VWs used a wideband from the factory. I seem to remember a wideband kit that used the sensor off a beetle......

I think i found the ones I need. M10x1 sound familiar? And does it matter which T runs to which port on the prop valve? Or is it like the MC, and they both see effectively the same pressures? And in case anyone is wondering, my ABS was messing up and activating at times that it shouldn't, so removin...

awesome.

Any chance you remember the thread pitch or where you got the fittings....?

And am i looking at it correctly in that that is 2 T's, with one going to LF and RR, while the other is split to RF and LR? Does it matter which line splits to which, or do both lines off the master see the same pressures?

I was thinking of running new lines, but skid's setup looks really damn clean. Which ABS pump did you have originally. I have the Bosch setup, which is huge and i think the lines will be a bit more difficult to work with neatly.....

I can probably get one if you still need it in a few days. Gonna be busy with work over the weekend.

How would i go about plumbing the brake system if i were to remove the ABS completely from the system?

What parts would be required?

Anyone done this before?

I never used the cork gasket. Never trusted it.....

I ran into fitment issues with the oil cooler on my '91 when the guy that rebuilt my motor used the cork gasket (the pan was held down too far, and kept the cooler from seating properly).

I do mine to 120.

I believe they amended the shop info to say 100, then again to say 120.....

I have had mine set to that and had no issues.

My vote would be valve seals as well. Seen it on quite a few other vehicles before, and it is pretty much exactly as described.

Probably the brake light switch at the pedal. The probability that all the bulbs went out at the same time are pretty slim, and that is the only other real thing that all of them have in common.

Sounds good. I get paid tomorrow, so shoot me some payment info

The passenger's door window switch on my driver's side assembly is broken (it goes down, but is spotty going up) Anyone got this assembly in working condition?

Nice work gijonas. There's doing it, then there's doing it right. That is definitely right. I've thought about what it would take to rework the body in such a fashion. To work with the subtle body lines and wheel flares would take some finesse and careful planning. I've wondered if following the fa...

I was just gonna fab it from scratch in sheet metal.....

I am debating how aggressive to go, though. 1 or 2 inches max, i am thinking.

I was sitting there looking at my SS the other day and thought to myself 'that thing is so boxy, it would be a breeze to fab up a widebody kit for it.....'

Thus, I am now planning on doing just that once i get a bit of money to play with.

Anyone beat me to the punch?