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Those are fine, possibly from a forester or outback, but they'll fit. They will take out most of the anti-geometry, which will increase brake dive a bit, but mostly likely results in an overall benefit and better cornering grip. I thought about it but didn't see how it would be an improvement over ...

I ordered the ones you suggested in the links above. These are the ones that showed up: http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag420/OdieF250/20160713_195221_zpsrwss6yie.jpg http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag420/OdieF250/20160713_195254_zpshyhtbuzm.jpg Maybe I ordered the wrong part number? I'll ha...

Welp. The aluminum ones aren't the same. I'll post a pic tomorrow, but the aluminum one would act as a drop bracket. Amazingly, the factory rubber bushings looked to be in great shape after 26 years. My 2002 Jetta bushings were rotted out at half that age. Now with new struts front and rear, I defin...

I ordered the aluminum ones.

Installed the rear struts an it only took about an hour per side. The old KYBs were totally shot and with the new rear struts that wagon feels like a go-kart through the corners. I can't wait to get to the front.

No worries. Thanks for the followup.

Yes, I'm just looking for the bearing size for the 1st gen metal pulley. If it's not too much trouble to check that would be great!

I was just wondering if you happen to know the bearing size for the 1st gen tensioner. I believe it's a smaller 6202 bearing.

Do you happen to remember how the pulley didn't fit (too small/big ID)?

Thanks.

Looking at the control arm posts again, it seems that the whiteline poly bushings have the same part number from 1990-2003 Legacys. Is it safe to assume that the factory rubber parts cover the same interchange years?
Thanks.

Hello all. I joined the forum back in 2011 when my SO bought a 1990 legacy 4wd Wagon. She's up to 230k miles now and running smooth and reliably, but the suspension is getting an overhaul with new struts and steering components. I'm just having difficulty sourcing the proper rear bushings for the LC...

Since you're already going to open the system to convert, please have your system evacuated with a recovery machine at a shop. R12 is an old school ozone-eater and in most states it's technically illegal to release refrigerants into the atmosphere. As mentioned before, it's also going to be pretty s...

I had hard start issues (cranked fine, took a while to "catch"). Cleaning out the IAC helped, but ultimately it turned out to be a pair of bad fuel injectors. I know it's my go-to answer for everything engine related, but check the resistance at each of the injectors with a multimeter. It ...

Have you tried to test the resistance at each of the injectors? There are a lot of subies out here in UT and pretty much every time someone has similar shaking issues it has been a bad injector. A 90 legacy wagon I bought had the same problem and I ended up finding this board in search for a solutio...

Check your fuel injectors. 2 of mine were bad (sometimes only occasionally) and it caused similar symptoms in a 90 2.2 I was driving.

I matched resistors with a multimeter and soldered them in. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v644/AfterThisNap/1990%20subaru%20legacy%20wagon/photo2.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v644/AfterThisNap/1990%20subaru%20legacy%20wagon/photo3.jpg I put it all back together and plugged it in to have...

Resistors came in- Pics to follow.

Not mine, but for 12 bucks it's an easy upgrade to your blown out paper speakers. http://www.ebay.com/itm/150849145993?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2648 I did a similar swap with Sti speakers and the difference between the 20 year old paper cones was night and day. They bolted r...

The radioshack here in town is terrible! Six 20k resistors would have required buying 2 multipacks totaling $40.

I just ebayed 100 shipped for $2.50

Hey, Turboleg.
I'm planning on putting in the highest wattage rating resistor I can find. I don't really know how I could measure wattage with all this outside the car.

Desoldering pumps are cool! Off the board I get: Middle setting: 1-3: 39.7 kOhm 1-2: 19.9 kOhm 2-3: 20.0 kOhm Clockwise: 1-3: 39.7 kOhms 1-2: 39.7 kOhms 2-3: 10.4 Ohms Conterclockwise: 1-3: 39.7 kOhms 1-2: 7.7 Ohms 2-3: 39.7 kOhms I'm wondering if the heating from desoldering did anything to normali...

New fancy autorange multimeter says: Middle Setting 1-3: 9.6 kOhms 1-2: 12.4 kOhms 2-3: 12.53 kOhms Clockwise setting: 1-3: 9.6 kOhms 1-2: 9.61 kOhms 2-3: 9.3 Ohms (no kilo) Counterclockwise: 9.6 kOhms 7.6 Ohms 9.62 kOhms All these were taken with the pot on the board. I'm about to take it off now. ...

Here are some pics of how the pot is attached. The top knob is the volume/power switch and it attaches near the fade/balance and treble/bass pots via remote wire. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v644/AfterThisNap/1990%20subaru%20legacy%20wagon/IMG_5506.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v644/Af...

Hey, 91. Is that assuming that I remove the pot alltogether?

Wow. That's a lot of help! I'll take it apart further and show how the pot is installed to the board. The balance and fade are on one knob and the pot includes connections 1 though 9. Connections 10-15 are on the pot that controls treble/bass. I did already reflow the solder previously to fix the au...

Apparently I don't know how to use a multimeter...
All these values were taken at a 10x setting. At 1000x I get different values but they are relatively the same.
Also, I get different values if I test the same connections but switch the black/red probe of the multimeter.

The left side sound cut out on the oem 1990 tape/aux head unit. Jiggling the fader control worked for a while to restore full sound, but now the left side is totally dead. The front/back fade setting works fine. Treble/Bass seems to be functional. I've read that you can bypass the fader/potentiomete...