legacycentral bbs

BAC5.2 wrote:IBlah, Blah, Techno babble, blah, square root of a pie blah tech, tech

Thank you for reading!

what happened to the cliff notes?

to go faster (or for better MPG) Add lightness!

I'm N/A and 250 per tank is my high side.
it equates to roughly 19 mpg.
BTW, to the OP, you ask for MPG but all your measurements are metric which would be KMPL (KiloMeter Per Liter) not MPG (Mile Per Gallon)

same price as I quoted him on GR-2s

jamal wrote:ebay tends to have them for cheap

and without warranty.
you need to be very careful about that, alot of stuff being sold on ebay doesn't come with a valid warranty.

oil, as you already stated. too much bounce, noise.
if you think they are bad, they probably are. struts are not designed to last that long.
I can get you a good deal on some stock replacements if you want.

yes.

yes, but ONLY after you have had the system sucked clean of R12 and it's oil.
since you will need to have it done by a shop anyways (unless you have an A/C Vacuum pump). just tell them what you did first and make sure you get a receipt from them.

yes.

I just threw out my factory HU earlier today, and then decided that I should put it back in and sell the car. by then it was gone though, along with the cluster and faceless radio I threw out.

I went through this on my 2 most recent legacies. it turned out to be a bad head unit in the second case. first one I never fixed, sold the car, but I think it was also the H/U
and an FYI, it's a common issue. one of my mechanics has a 92 legacy with the same issue (all factory H/Us)

what huh wrote:like the title says,
let me know if you have some for sale or know a good place to get them.
And im still looking for a 20lb flywheel

is it for the 94 or 98?

No it doesn't. Changing out the contacts and boots isn't a big deal if you have access to new contacts and a good crimping tool. You can slide the boots off and then uncrimp the contacts. But, if I remember correctly, my friend's manual-transmission 97 Impreza Outback with the EJ22 had the same plu...

no pic, but I currently have a cluster, a microwave, subwoofer, miscellaneous clothing.
I seriously need to clean it out.

the stock coil has a male end for the wires.

evolutionmovement wrote:They are also all alloy, like the engine, as opposed to the brass N/A or the alloy/plastic end tank turbo OEMs.

only if you get a "racing" radiator.
the stock replacements are still PTR or CBR
nothing wrong with either one on a properly functioning system.

Adam West wrote:Don't radiators silt up after 15+ year of service? Not sure if that's the right term but they become much less efficient.



AW

just flush regualrly and you'll prevent the problems

if you want new, let me know

I got mine for free by posting a wanted ad on a mailing list I'm on.
I still haven't finished wiring the cord though

thanks guys but i actually scored the goods off a 93 leg at a local salvage yard. Got the regulator, motor, AND the window switch all for $60! Score!! Turns out the problem was either the motor or the regulator, cuz i tried both switches (new one and my old one) and they both worked fine. When i ge...

do you have access to multimeter?
a compression tester?
I would check resistance on the injectors, and the compression on the motor.

why do you have to be so far away

I won't lie, I own that site.
I like to think I'm a good vendor.

Isopropyl alcohol in the gas.

Herm99 wrote:both of my end links are shot and i just realized these damn little things are $53 EACH..thats crazy considering how cheap everything else is on these cars...is there an aftermarket or cheaper one we can use? Any resoursces?

Thanks

I replied in your other thread.