legacycentral bbs

Are you sure D has an ID of 3.5mm?

Pretty sure, why?

Because a 1/8" ID hose doesn't fit over it.

The 3.5mm hose is a very tight fit. The nipples on the tee and auxiliary purge valve don't have any beads on them so they rely on friction to hold them in place.

1/8" is a bit smaller than 3.5mm, so it's not surprising it's hard to fit over it. When I replaced it on my car, I think I might have used 5/32" hose clamped with zipties.

ah.

Hey guys I just got my autometer boost gauge. I'm still confused on which vaccume line to take... referring to the diagram suggested by vrg3, Do I take the L/M line?? All the picture link here seems to be dead, could someone please repost the pictures? Thanks!

I PM'd you back and explained which one to use.

The pics are dead because we had a past member that hosted a Gallery that we could all use to host pics. That site is gone so, most of the pics on the site got lost......

for those who can't tell the difference between a EJ22T and EJ22 but want to install a boost gauge.

The following pic shows which one is the #1 runner (from passenger's side). I don't know what #1 runner is but I figured its the the tube looking thing that comes out of the intake manifold.



As legacy92ej22t suggests:



Many thanks to vrg3 for his vacuum hose diagram and legacy 92ej22t for his help!

there are tons of thread on this I'll post pictures for my steps of gauge installation.

http://www.sfu.ca/~leonc/Legacy/Boost%2 ... 20hose.JPG

Are you sure that the WG solenoid is blumbed correctly? I think you got the L and J lines mixed up.

It looks like you drew the pressure feed (M/L) as the little hose that connects to the top of the solenoid. But I think this is a vent for the actuator.

I think the compressor (M) should go directly to the bottom of the solenoid (J).

I think K is in the right spot though.

Please correct me if I'm wrong here. I have a 91 LS and it is plumbed the way I described. I have only owned the car for a couple weeks and it has a surgin under boost issue.

ps: thanks for taking the time to do this!

You have a 91 LS but a previous owner installed a turbo engine in it?

I'm pretty sure my diagram's correct for the boost control plumbing. Sounds like whoever did your swap mixed them up. That actually sounds kind of bad... If you switch the top and bottom fittings on the solenoid then it seems to me that the wastegate actuator would never see pressure and you'd overboost.

That pic looks like how I have mine setup

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... P_6012.JPG
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... P_6013.JPG

First of all, yes I have the SS. I was thinking LS, but my head was up my arse. I was thinking that SS stood for super sport, DOH! NOOB uh?

Anyway, mine is not plumbed the same as the last photo. Only the bottom two hoses connect to the turbo compressor. The top one is smaller and appears to be a vent. Maybe that's why my car likes to surge under boost!

Please be precise with your words.

The bottom two hoses connect to the compressor?

Yeah, the two bottom hoses are about 1/4" and the one on the very bottom connects to the compressor and the other connects to the wastegate canister. The small connection (maybe 1/8") looks like a vent.

I had the solenoid off the car and tested it. the bottom two fittings on the bottom were normally closed. The horizontal bottom fitting and the very top fitting were normally open. This is why I assume the little fitting on the top was a vent.

When I energize the solenoid, the two large fittings on the bottom open to eachother and the small fitting on the top closes off. It seems perfectly normal to me; that's why I ask if you drawing is correct.

When I bought the car, the hose clamps on my solenoid were slid down the hoses, past the fittings. It was obvious that someone 'worked' on it and didn't put it all back together right.

That sounds right.



Hm. That doesn't. Are you absolutely certain the fitting on the top closes off? Because I suppose it's possible that energizing the coil opens all the fittings to each other; I've never looked at it that closely. I thought that energizing the solenoid would open the small fitting on to to the large fitting on the bottom, closing off the large fitting on the side.

But now that I think about it, it makes more sense that it would open all three to each other, because that would make for smoother pressure gradients and whatnot.

Do you have the right solenoid? Part number 16102AA012 or 16102AA013?

I promise you my diagram is correct. You can check through the factory service manuals and the parts catalogs to verify.

I trust your drawing, not my car. I've read a few of your other posts and you seem sharp on the subject.

I'll have to double check the pumbing. I'm gunna take all of that silly resonator crap off of there and see what's really going on.

Cool. 90% chance, I'd say, that your boost control issues go away after you replumb it correctly.

Well, I took all of the intake stuff off to get a better look at the plumbing for the wastegate solenoid and it all looks right (per the drawing). I guess I was confused in the begining because of the tiewraps in there made it look like I was tugging on one hose when it was a different hose. Duh.

I did the snorkus mod while I was in there and I checked all the moulded hoses and fittings for cracks and what not but it all looked good. The only weird thing I noticed was oil coming out of the BOV canister fitting. The boost is rock-steady at 5psi with the canister line disconnected. 9-11psi with it hooked up. It sometimes it likes to fluctuate when I'm WOT at either 5psi or 9-10psi. weird. Sometimes it pulls really hard when my boost gauge is only showing 5psi.

I guess I'm back to the drawing board on this issue...

But thanks a ton for the drawings and the advice guys!

Ah, good. I was getting confused myself, wondering if it could actually work plumbed backwards.

Some oil in the intake is normal.

The fluctuating between 5 psi and more-than-5 psi usually means the ECU is detecting knock.

PS - Mods, can we get someone to fix Trace's ridiculously huge image?

Done

Thanks, Josh!

for the sake of clarity
i'm going to be doing lots of work on my 92 this summer and once the intercooler is in i'm obviously putting an MBC in
soooo correct me if i'm wrong but referring to the vacuum diagram that begun this thread...
the MBC will go somewhere in hose K
then the boost control solenoid is going to be unhooked from hose L which is going to be capped off? or just left open?
let me know if there's something that i left out or said wrong.
thanks
-Alex

The MBC goes between the compressor outlet and the wastegate actuator. How you want to do that is up to you.

Do cap off the nipples on the boost control solenoid that'll be unused afterwards.

you said nipples, plural does that mean that i should unhook all three lines from the solenoid?
and so theres a vacuum line between the compressor and the wastegate actuator that isnt in the diagram?

You can leave the bottom line hooked to the solenoid.

There is no vacuum line directly between the compressor and wastegate actuator -- the factory boost control solenoid is there.