Page 1 of 1

Dried/cracked PCV repair

Posted: Sat Jan 25, 2014 1:37 am
by erecker
94 Legacy Wagon, Turbo AWD, 197k mi.

OH what fun I'm having with dried out, hard, cracked PCV/vacuum system!
This adventure started with the newly acquired vehicle not passing emissions (high carbon monoxide, 400 of 200 allowable.)

O2 sensor was looking good in closed loop, but a mechanic recommended replacing it 'because it's lazy'. They recommended replacing the PCV valve due to smoking oil leak in the engine bay. Finally they wanted to replace both cats (saying one in the exhaust manifold under the engine, and second behind the turbo).

So I started replacing the PCV valve, the 'rubber' hose was cracked and broke. So I tried to get it off of the 'F pipe', which also broke. Basically everything rubber is breaking as I chase it down. I had to take the turbo inlet elbow off to access other piping, and it is cracked too!


So I'm getting bulk 1/2", 5/8", 3/4" rubber piping together from the local auto parts. I'm going to need to track down some Y adapters for those sizes. I'll also need to either replace the turbo inlet (I see these are available in Canada?), or cobble something custom with a silicone elbow and the 'coffee cup' mod.


So first let my story be a warning to others - lol.


Second, I'd love some advice on how people have been able to access the vertical vacuum port (PCV port?), on the top of the rear passenger side of the engine, beside the turbo. Images attached below.

Thanks in advance!


P.S. the Turbo to Throttle hose is hard as a rock - I cannot pull it off without damaging it. :(


Image

Image

Image

Image

Re: Dried/cracked PCV repair

Posted: Sat Jan 25, 2014 1:43 am
by erecker
P.P.S. HUGE thanks to VRG3 for the vacuum hose image you made, and PCV system image scanned from the manual. :)

Re: Dried/cracked PCV repair

Posted: Sat Jan 25, 2014 3:54 am
by Legacy777
Welcome to the BBS!

Before you just go and replace the PCV hose with bulk rubber hose, I suggest reading this thread regarding using the proper emissions hose. Over time the radiator hose will swell and become soft.

As for getting that rear 3/4" hose off, long needle nose pliers to get the hose clamp off works best.

Re: Dried/cracked PCV repair

Posted: Sat Jan 25, 2014 8:43 pm
by subytech
^^^ THIS IS IMPORTANT, I've had to replace a lot of heater core hose that has been used for PCV on friends and customers cars due to leaks, and it doesn't take long to do so!

Re: Dried/cracked PCV repair

Posted: Sun Jan 26, 2014 2:12 am
by erecker
Thanks for the greetings :)

I got some 11" needle nose, and some long 'hose pliers' from harbor freight - the old hose is off!

Thanks for the tip on not using the heater hose - this job sucks and I only want to do it once! lol

Re: Dried/cracked PCV repair

Posted: Sun Jan 26, 2014 7:44 pm
by cj91legss
If you haven't gotten everything off yet a good tool to have is a heat gun. Heating up the hoses before attempting to pull them off (charge pipe included) will make it less easier to crack or break the hose.

Re: Dried/cracked PCV repair

Posted: Wed Feb 05, 2014 11:24 pm
by Nibbib
im having to replace the hole system with oem stuff the guy who owned my wagon before me had a bunch of the stuff broken and cracked and used a wrx cross over pipe for part of the system....

Re: Dried/cracked PCV repair

Posted: Fri Feb 07, 2014 1:27 am
by James614
The tip about using a heat gun should be in one of the stickies. I went through the "breaking every PCV component I touched" phase like 5 years ago. I had a heat gun too, but it just never occured to me.

Re: Dried/cracked PCV repair

Posted: Fri Feb 07, 2014 1:30 am
by cj91legss
Yeah, heat gun helps so much.

Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk

Re: Dried/cracked PCV repair

Posted: Thu Feb 13, 2014 8:29 pm
by 93Leg-c
So, on what heat setting do you use the heat gun? How much do you heat up the hose? Hot enough to wear an insulated glove before attempting to pull the hose off?

Re: Dried/cracked PCV repair

Posted: Sun Feb 16, 2014 12:05 am
by Legacy777
All you're trying to do is heat the hose enough so it remains flexible. I would use the low heat setting, but will let others that have done it chime in.

Re: Dried/cracked PCV repair

Posted: Sun Feb 16, 2014 5:53 pm
by cj91legss
I've gotten away with the high heat setting on some stuff that is really hard like plastic. But mostly I use the low setting like Josh mentioned.

Re: Dried/cracked PCV repair

Posted: Sun Feb 16, 2014 9:54 pm
by 93Leg-c
Thanks for the feedback. Now, another question: After the hoses are softened enough to get them off, do they remain soft or do they become hard (or harder) again? I'm asking because I'm going to have to be removing some of those hardened hoses in my engine bay and I'd like to plan for what to expect. Thanks!

Re: Dried/cracked PCV repair

Posted: Sun Feb 16, 2014 10:06 pm
by cj91legss
They will harden after they cool off. They wont be harder than before. When you go to put them back on, you will want to soften them with the heat gun again.

Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk

Re: Dried/cracked PCV repair

Posted: Sun Feb 16, 2014 11:14 pm
by 93Leg-c
Thanks, cj! I appreciate your input! :D

Re: Dried/cracked PCV repair

Posted: Mon Feb 17, 2014 12:12 am
by cj91legss
Always happy to help!

Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk

Re: Dried/cracked PCV repair

Posted: Thu Apr 24, 2014 3:18 pm
by 91Beater
There's a hose labeled "fuel vapor use, not for fuel line". That's what I used.

Rotate it back and forth while wedging it on the direction of removal. I used a flat head screw driver as a wedge. You can use a pair of pliers to rotate it, but pinch away from fittings so you don't crush them in.

I add a couple drops of transmission fluid under the hose after "breaking it loose" by rotating if its really bad.