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 Post subject: Introduction of a siberian subarist
PostPosted: Tue Feb 25, 2014 3:33 pm 
First Gear
Joined: Tue Feb 25, 2014 5:14 am
Posts: 67
Location: Barnaul, Russia
Hello, fellow owners of amazing machines called Subaru Legacy!

Please let me introduce myself, I'm a foreigner I live in Siberia, Russia. City called Barnaul. And I'm 27. I have a wife and 4 y.o daughter.

I'm proud to be the owner of my first car which is Subaru Legacy BC2 of 1992. It's completely rebuilt by previous owners from EJ18, MT, 2WD to EJ22, AT, 4WD.
I bought this car for just $2800 (95000 roubles). It has a left-side steering wheel, which is something considered as luxury in this parts of Russia. I love the design of this 90's sedan, it's amazing, reminds me dreams of my childhood! I searched for a 4WD foreign car for a long time and finally found on 3-th of January, and bought as a New Year's present for me and my family. Friends suggested me to buy VAZ 2121 Niva, the Russian piece of crap. Although it's has a great off-road capabilities, it's completely uncomfortable and unreliable. So I'm glad I got Subaru!
My friends and colleagues have cars of 1999-2007, and they are laughing about my car, calling her "dinosaur", but I really don't care, 'cause I dislike new design of Japanese cars (Well I do like IV-th generation of Legacy though), but it doesn't matter...
I hope to find a lot of useful information on your forum, and I send my regards and appreciation to all of the forum members! I've already downloaded FSM for my car, it's just so amazing... 2000 pages of pure technical data! Russian edition has at most 200 pages, and it's about nothing... It doesn't explain in all details what I need to know about bringing my "star" to the good condition, and I know I can achieve it!
22 years of Russian roads, freezing -40 degC winters, and lots of "really-bad" owners have brought this amazing machine to the worst state ever... But everything can be restored as long as spare parts and aftermarket parts exist...
I have some problems that I'm trying to solve with the help of Russian Subarists from Krasnoyarsk city, they help a lot, but most of them have "right-handed" vehicles of 1999-2013 years, and they get stuck on some of my questions. So I'm really happy to find this forum of yours!
Please, let me introduce some problems I'm trying to solve in order of priority:
1. My star is eating 27 liters of 92 octane gasoline on 100 kilometers... I'm spending about $200 a month for fuel, and I'm not driving far... About 900 km a month...
*solutions*:
1.1. I installed new BOSCH 0 258 005 726 O2 sensor.
1.2. Cleaned MAF, throttle, intake and injectors at BG service, and replaced the motor oil with theirs BG 5W30 + some additions.
1.3. I'm waiting for Bremi 301-32 MAF, as a replacement of my original 22680AA160 JECS MAF... Currently it's showing 1.26 - 1.8 volts instead of 0.8 - 1.2V... I hope new one will help...
1.4. My ignition coil tells me 0.2 Om and 14 KOm. Could it be a problem also?
1.5. I installed NGK BKR6E-11 spark plugs. After two days three of them became totally black, and one is a little red (normal) which is on the first cylinder. Should I install NGK BKR6EIX-11 ones?
1.6. I replaced the knock sensor with original bought for $50 (1594 roubles).
1.7. I always fill my fuel tank with 92 octane gasoline from Gazpromneft stations (considered best all over Russia)
1.8. And I've just found a reliable techician who corrected the position of my timing belt which was off for 3 teeth...
** I'll be very happy if you give me some more solutions **

2. I don't have the rear drive... I ordered new frictions (plate complete-drive and plate-driven) for the AT transfer & extension, and really hope they will help. Although I'll have to install them myself, and I'm a little nervous about it... But I hope I'll be able to correctly install them, Krasnoyarsk guys tell me it's easy.

3. My ABS is giving me red-lamp always from the moment I start the engine. Planning to solve on March-April.
4. I replaced rear disk brakes with new ones from TRW, but I also need brake shoes for parking brake... In plans for March-April.
5. I need a total replacement of suspension parts, planning to replace with polyurethane ones, produced in Novosibirsk for freezing russian winters.
6. Already bought but not installed rear KYB shock-absorbers. Waiting for spring.
7. I need to replace muffler, mine is completely f**d up and has few holes in it... (I know that it's "minus-few-points" to fuel economy :)))
8. Body has some rust spots on fenders, and a nice scar on the left rear side.
9. I also want to replace boot-drive shafts with polyurethane ones, for the next winter.
10. I also need engine and transmission cushions to be replaced, but I have to pay around $150 for a set, so it's in future plans.
11. I need engine cover
12. Some plastic parts of interior and exterior (above steering wheel, around cd-player, )
13. I need new head lamps with correction, and rear-right lamp.
14. I need a new alarm
15. I want to get an electric pre-heater for cooling liquid (antifreeze)

As you can see I've got some huge plans on this car :) Here you can see her "diary" and photos if you are interested. Although it's in Russian, Google Translate will help you :)

Thank you for letting me to introduce myself and of course my Subaru!

Sincerely, Stan (Stanislav)

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 Post subject: Re: Introduction of a siberian subarist
PostPosted: Tue Feb 25, 2014 6:46 pm 
Fourth Gear
Joined: Fri Aug 20, 2010 7:00 am
Posts: 1434
Location: Everett, WA
Congratulations and welcome to the boards! It's always nice to have board members from locations around the world.

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1993 Legacy LS | PBM 227
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 Post subject: Re: Introduction of a siberian subarist
PostPosted: Tue Feb 25, 2014 7:29 pm 
Fourth Gear
Joined: Fri Jan 24, 2003 3:39 am
Posts: 1203
Location: Oak Harbor, Washington
Certainly welcome. Congratulations to Russia for a great Olympic Games production. Inside the black ABS box there are two relays, one for abs motor, one for valves, service manual tells how to test.


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 Post subject: Re: Introduction of a siberian subarist
PostPosted: Tue Feb 25, 2014 8:33 pm 
Fifth Gear
Joined: Mon Nov 06, 2006 3:41 am
Posts: 8351
Location: Tenino, WA
My calculations show you're getting approximately 8.74 miles per gallon. That's very poor. A good running ej22 with 4EAT automatic transmission should get between 24-27 mpg. About 3 times as many miles per gallon as you're getting. Sounds like you're dumping way too much fuel or its not getting burned all the way. Check to see that your timing belt is lined up properly on your cams and crank. Then go order a new coolant temp sensor and replace your old one.

Did the person who replaced the ej18 with the ej22 engine replace the ecu with the proper one for the ej22? Also, if the octane ratings are the same as they are here in the states, don't use 92 octane unless you've got a turbo. Its a waste of money and won't run better than 87 octane. 92 octane is only for high compression engines and supercharged or turbocharged engines. It does not clean your engine better nor does it perform better or get better fuel economy than 87 on a naturally aspirated normal compression engine.

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 Post subject: Re: Introduction of a siberian subarist
PostPosted: Wed Feb 26, 2014 2:30 am 
First Gear
Joined: Tue Feb 25, 2014 5:14 am
Posts: 67
Location: Barnaul, Russia
We have only 92, 95 and 98 octane, and 95-G with some additions. The lowest is 92. We used to have 80 but it disappeared in the beginning of 2000's. The timing belt is properly aligned now. I actually haven't count how much fuel I'm spending after the belt alignment that I've done last week. The ECU I have is 22611 AA611.
Thanks for recommendations on ABS, I'll take a look this evening.

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 Post subject: Re: Introduction of a siberian subarist
PostPosted: Wed Feb 26, 2014 2:45 am 
Fifth Gear
Joined: Mon Nov 06, 2006 3:41 am
Posts: 8351
Location: Tenino, WA
Ok you're good on the fuel then. Unfortunately I don't know which ecu you have by that number but someone here may be able to tell you. Dont forget to try replacing your coolant temp sensor. Its cheap and easy and it can drastically affect your fuel ratio.

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"Your testes are close to your bottom but you still play with them all the time." Jeremy Clarkson


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 Post subject: Re: Introduction of a siberian subarist
PostPosted: Wed Feb 26, 2014 3:12 am 
Fourth Gear
Joined: Fri Jan 24, 2003 3:39 am
Posts: 1203
Location: Oak Harbor, Washington
Recheck the last three digits of the part number for the ECU.


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 Post subject: Re: Introduction of a siberian subarist
PostPosted: Wed Feb 26, 2014 3:49 am 
First Gear
Joined: Tue Feb 25, 2014 5:14 am
Posts: 67
Location: Barnaul, Russia
I've found this list of ECUs for my car on japancats.ru (mine is outlined with red):
Image

As I understand - 22611AA970 is for leaded fuel. It seems that I have to find myself 22611AA950?

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 Post subject: Re: Introduction of a siberian subarist
PostPosted: Wed Feb 26, 2014 5:46 am 
Fifth Gear
Joined: Mon Nov 06, 2006 3:41 am
Posts: 8351
Location: Tenino, WA
I'm not sure but I bet it's one of the ones listed for EJ22 and probably not the one you have. You find any ECU from an EJ22 legacy and you'll probably be fine.

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 Post subject: Re: Introduction of a siberian subarist
PostPosted: Wed Feb 26, 2014 7:51 am 
First Gear
Joined: Tue Feb 25, 2014 5:14 am
Posts: 67
Location: Barnaul, Russia
OK I'll try to find myself aftermarket ECU, but how can I check that it's OK? In US you probably have thousands of them... How much do they cost in US?

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 Post subject: Re: Introduction of a siberian subarist
PostPosted: Wed Feb 26, 2014 4:16 pm 
Fifth Gear
Joined: Mon Nov 06, 2006 3:41 am
Posts: 8351
Location: Tenino, WA
Not aftermarket, just a stock ecu from a fuel injected ej22 engine legacy. This ecu here from a junkyard would be probably $20-$60. I would hope they would be the same from country to country but I'm not positive since your fuel may be different.

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 Post subject: Re: Introduction of a siberian subarist
PostPosted: Thu Feb 27, 2014 3:04 am 
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Stan,

Welcome to the BBS! Glad to have some more members around the world.


Regarding some of your problems, I've provided some comments below:


stan31337 wrote:
1.3. I'm waiting for Bremi 301-32 MAF, as a replacement of my original 22680AA160 JECS MAF... Currently it's showing 1.26 - 1.8 volts instead of 0.8 - 1.2V... I hope new one will help...


I don't think your MAF is likely the problem for the very poor fuel economy. The higher voltage just indicates more air is going through the MAF. So if the engine rpm is higher the voltage will be higher. What was the engine rpm when you tested the MAF voltage? However, the current MAF may be old and may not be as accurate as a new one, so you could try it out and see if it makes any difference.


stan31337 wrote:
1.4. My ignition coil tells me 0.2 Om and 14 KOm. Could it be a problem also?


If you are testing the ignition coil properly, then yes I would probably say the coil is bad and likely the main culprit for the very poor fuel economy. With the coil design each opposing cylinder shares the coil. So if one side of the coil is bad, two cylinders don't get spark. This factory manual scan talks about testing the coil:

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... cktest.jpg

Are you checking the resistance for the secondary coils where the resistance should be 13.8 kohms?


stan31337 wrote:
1.5. I installed NGK BKR6E-11 spark plugs. After two days three of them became totally black, and one is a little red (normal) which is on the first cylinder. Should I install NGK BKR6EIX-11 ones?


The color of the plugs are likely a result of the coil pack not properly igniting the fuel/air mix. I'd suggest replacing the coil pack and then see how things look.


stan31337 wrote:
2. I don't have the rear drive... I ordered new frictions (plate complete-drive and plate-driven) for the AT transfer & extension, and really hope they will help. Although I'll have to install them myself, and I'm a little nervous about it... But I hope I'll be able to correctly install them, Krasnoyarsk guys tell me it's easy.


I haven't done this job myself, but I've heard it can be done by just removing the rear tail housing. I would maybe suggest doing some testing first to see if you can determine whether no rear drive is a symptom caused by electronics or something else. Does your Legacy have a green power light on the dash that comes on at start up? Does it flash at all? If it flashes, you may have codes stored in the TCU, and I'd suggest pulling to see what they say. Also, have you checked to see if there is a fuse in the FWD fuse holder behind the passenger side strut tower? If there's one in there, remove it.


stan31337 wrote:
3. My ABS is giving me red-lamp always from the moment I start the engine. Planning to solve on March-April.


In addition, I'd suggest checking the ABS computer to see if you can determine what code is stored. Here are some instructions to read the codes.

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... bsdiag.jpg
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... ostics.pdf


Regarding the ECU, I would agree and suggest trying to find an EJ22 ECU to use in the car. Is the check engine light on or have you checked the ECU for codes? I've got instructions on my site if you need them.

www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html

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1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
1997 Impreza OBS

If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm


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 Post subject: Re: Introduction of a siberian subarist
PostPosted: Thu Feb 27, 2014 9:30 am 
First Gear
Joined: Tue Feb 25, 2014 5:14 am
Posts: 67
Location: Barnaul, Russia
Quote:
What was the engine rpm when you tested the MAF voltage?

The engine was idle at 850rpm. Voltage was 1.26. At 2250rpm voltage was 1.80

Quote:
Are you checking the resistance for the secondary coils where the resistance should be 13.8 kohms?

Ignition Coil:
Primary side:
No.2 - No.1 - 1.5 Ohm
No.2 - No.3 - 1.5 Ohm
Secondary side:
#1 - #2 - 11.7 kOhm
#3 - #4 - 12 kOhm

Spark Plug Cords:
#1 - 4.6 kOhm
#2 - 4.3 kOhm
#3 - 4.66 kOhm
#4 - 4.95 kOhm

Quote:
Does your Legacy have a green power light on the dash that comes on at start up? Does it flash at all?

It has the light, but I have never seen it flashing even on start up. Scanner didn't find any codes about AT failures.

Quote:
Also, have you checked to see if there is a fuse in the FWD fuse holder behind the passenger side strut tower?

Fuse is not installed. Previous owner told me that 4WD was warking, then it started kicking in the back, and after a while finally gone.

I'll check out ABS, thanks for the links!

Quote:
Is the check engine light on or have you checked the ECU for codes?

Check Engine doesn't light up, well it lights up before the start up. Scanner didn't find any errors.

So I do need to change ECU though?

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 Post subject: Re: Introduction of a siberian subarist
PostPosted: Thu Feb 27, 2014 4:56 pm 
First Gear
Joined: Tue Feb 25, 2014 5:14 am
Posts: 67
Location: Barnaul, Russia
I changed MAF today. It had 4 contacts instead of 5... At first car was running great, was very stable at idling, and I even felt that it is responding better to the pedal. But after few minutes idling started flowing from 1100 to 600, it started to look like the engine is going to halt, when moving the car wasn't able to gain speed at all, it ran as something was holding her back. Well, I can't explain very well, but it ran like it had no gasoline, or the gasoline was very very very bad... Although I didn't fill her up after changing the MAF...
I was so frustrated that I almost cried... I spent more than $100 for this new MAF and it didn't help at all...

I'm guessing that everything went so bad when radiator fans turned on... I don't know why the hell did they turn on, the temperature was at it's middle, and weather was like -10 degC, although the engine is still covered with warm blanket and the radiator's front covered with a piece of cardboard (The way we fight freezing winters).

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 Post subject: Re: Introduction of a siberian subarist
PostPosted: Fri Feb 28, 2014 3:01 pm 
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Joined: Tue Feb 25, 2014 5:14 am
Posts: 67
Location: Barnaul, Russia
Today I took off entire PCV system in order to install new cooling liquid sensor. The lowest 807519082 hose was torn almost to the half of it, and as a fact the side of engine was covered with black oil. I was unable to find it in my town, and on the Internet this little piece of hose costs $8!!! So I just took the insulating tape and wrapped this piece of hose around few times. Hoses 807512792 and 807512602 were also cut at the tip which connects to the valve covers, new ones cost $40!!! So I just cut the tips... I was afraid they become too short, but they fit just OK.
I think that my throttle sensor has problems. Here's why I think so: I went to drive a little bit with new MAF and "repaired" PCV system, the car acted nicely, acceleration was nice, but then I went to "highway" and tried to accelerate fast. After 2500 rpm at 60kph engine stopped reacting to the pedal, I pushed more and more, but no reaction. Then I released pedal a little and acceleration began. I thought: "WTF???" After this crazy miracle car started to twitch a little bit, and when I came home revs were completely unstable jumping from 1100 to 500 and back. Few times engine was about to halt, but ECU on it's own corrected revs back to thousand.
Some crazy thing it is... I'm stuck!

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 Post subject: Re: Introduction of a siberian subarist
PostPosted: Fri Feb 28, 2014 6:18 pm 
Fifth Gear
Joined: Mon Nov 06, 2006 3:41 am
Posts: 8351
Location: Tenino, WA
You may have intake leaks causing the ecu to dump too much fuel but really I think you need the rigut ecu before you go trying to fix other things that may not even be bad.

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 Post subject: Re: Introduction of a siberian subarist
PostPosted: Fri Feb 28, 2014 8:36 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 06, 2006 3:41 am
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Location: Tenino, WA
You should check and adjust your idle switch. The idle switch is inside the TPS (throttle position sensor) which is located on the side of the throttle body. Here's how to test it. You'll need feeler gauges.

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... sting3.jpg

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"Your testes are close to your bottom but you still play with them all the time." Jeremy Clarkson


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 Post subject: Re: Introduction of a siberian subarist
PostPosted: Sat Mar 01, 2014 2:36 pm 
First Gear
Joined: Tue Feb 25, 2014 5:14 am
Posts: 67
Location: Barnaul, Russia
OK, thanks for the link. I'll try adjusting the idle switch tomorrow. And I'll try my best to order ECU on Monday. What about ignition coil and wires? Are they OK?

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 Post subject: Re: Introduction of a siberian subarist
PostPosted: Mon Mar 03, 2014 1:16 am 
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stan31337 wrote:
The engine was idle at 850rpm. Voltage was 1.26. At 2250rpm voltage was 1.80


That should be ok.


stan31337 wrote:
Ignition Coil:
Primary side:
No.2 - No.1 - 1.5 Ohm
No.2 - No.3 - 1.5 Ohm
Secondary side:
#1 - #2 - 11.7 kOhm
#3 - #4 - 12 kOhm

Spark Plug Cords:
#1 - 4.6 kOhm
#2 - 4.3 kOhm
#3 - 4.66 kOhm
#4 - 4.95 kOhm


The primary side coil resistance values are twice as high as the factory specs. I'm not sure if that's a huge issue. It may mean that your coil pack needs to be replaced. Have you verified that each spark plug has good spark using a test light or similar? If not, I'd suggest doing that to confirm whether you need to replace your coil pack.



stan31337 wrote:
It has the light, but I have never seen it flashing even on start up. Scanner didn't find any codes about AT failures.


Does the green power light come on steadily when you turn the key to the ON position?

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1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
1997 Impreza OBS

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 Post subject: Re: Introduction of a siberian subarist
PostPosted: Mon Mar 03, 2014 1:19 am 
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stan31337 wrote:
I changed MAF today. It had 4 contacts instead of 5... At first car was running great, was very stable at idling, and I even felt that it is responding better to the pedal. But after few minutes idling started flowing from 1100 to 600, it started to look like the engine is going to halt, when moving the car wasn't able to gain speed at all, it ran as something was holding her back. Well, I can't explain very well, but it ran like it had no gasoline, or the gasoline was very very very bad... Although I didn't fill her up after changing the MAF...
I was so frustrated that I almost cried... I spent more than $100 for this new MAF and it didn't help at all...

I'm guessing that everything went so bad when radiator fans turned on... I don't know why the hell did they turn on, the temperature was at it's middle, and weather was like -10 degC, although the engine is still covered with warm blanket and the radiator's front covered with a piece of cardboard (The way we fight freezing winters).


Which pin did the new MAF sensor not have in relation to this diagram?

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... sting1.jpg

The radiator fans will turn on if the defrost or AC button is depressed. Also they will kick on if the ECu goes into "fail-safe" mode. Lastly, if the coolant temp sensor is bad, that could also cause the fans to come on.

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1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
1997 Impreza OBS

If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm


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 Post subject: Re: Introduction of a siberian subarist
PostPosted: Mon Mar 03, 2014 3:57 pm 
First Gear
Joined: Tue Feb 25, 2014 5:14 am
Posts: 67
Location: Barnaul, Russia
Here's a picture of my new MAF. The pin # 1 is missing.

http://imageshack.com/a/img716/1324/y0id.jpg

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 Post subject: Re: Introduction of a siberian subarist
PostPosted: Mon Mar 03, 2014 4:36 pm 
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Location: Barnaul, Russia
During this weekend we have successfully replaced the friction pack in the AT extension. Now my Legacy is back to the 4WD! It feels so good driving a 4WD car! I've also changed front differential oil and AT oil completely (with draining one liter at a time from the radiator pipe and filling the new one)

Quote:
Does the green power light come on steadily when you turn the key to the ON position?

The green FWD light doesn't light up, I've never seen it when key is turned.

I've installed hotter spark plugs NGK BKR5E-11 on this weekend also. At least now the car successfully starts up, BKR6E-11s were all black and covered with gasoline.

Idling on AT's P position is OK, but on D position is just so bad, the whole car is shaking.

If I'm going to buy myself new ignition coil should I also get a new pack of wires?

I still can't find time to check the throttle sensor, I think it's pretty damaged.

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 Post subject: Re: Introduction of a siberian subarist
PostPosted: Mon Mar 03, 2014 7:06 pm 
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stan31337 wrote:
Here's a picture of my new MAF. The pin # 1 is missing.

http://imageshack.com/a/img716/1324/y0id.jpg



Thanks for the picture. Pin # 5 is actually the one that is missing. The numbering in the factory manual refers to the chassis connector, so if you transpose those numbers onto the MAF sensor, they'll be backwards.

Pin # 5 is related to an improper MAF check that I think is mainly only used for the North American market first generation Legacies. So it's shouldn't be an issue for your Legacy.

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1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
1997 Impreza OBS

If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm


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 Post subject: Re: Introduction of a siberian subarist
PostPosted: Mon Mar 03, 2014 7:16 pm 
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stan31337 wrote:
During this weekend we have successfully replaced the friction pack in the AT extension. Now my Legacy is back to the 4WD! It feels so good driving a 4WD car! I've also changed front differential oil and AT oil completely (with draining one liter at a time from the radiator pipe and filling the new one)


Glad to hear you have AWD again.


stan31337 wrote:
The green FWD light doesn't light up, I've never seen it when key is turned.


The FWD light should be red, on the north american cars there is a separate Power light just below the shifter indicator lights. It may not be there on the overseas models. If your AWD is working, then I wouldn't worry too much about it.


stan31337 wrote:
I've installed hotter spark plugs NGK BKR5E-11 on this weekend also. At least now the car successfully starts up, BKR6E-11s were all black and covered with gasoline.

Idling on AT's P position is OK, but on D position is just so bad, the whole car is shaking.

If I'm going to buy myself new ignition coil should I also get a new pack of wires?

I still can't find time to check the throttle sensor, I think it's pretty damaged.



Installing hotter plugs is just masking the symptoms. The black spark plugs are an indicator that the car is running too rich or that you are having misfires and incomplete combustion. The coolant temp sensor plays a HUGE role in adjusting the air fuel ratio and can cause the engine to run rich, and cause the cooling fans to turn on.

Just to note, there are two separate coolant temp sensors, one is a two-wire sensor which goes back to the ECU. There is another single wire sensor that goes to the dash temperature gauge.

I would recommend replacing the coolant temp sensor first, they are relatively inexpensive (around $25 USD) compared to the other parts and can have a huge affect on the engine's performance. If you still are experiencing black soot on the spark plugs I would then focus your attention on the igntion system, coil pack and spark plug wires.

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1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
1997 Impreza OBS

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 Post subject: Re: Introduction of a siberian subarist
PostPosted: Tue Mar 04, 2014 4:49 am 
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Joined: Tue Feb 25, 2014 5:14 am
Posts: 67
Location: Barnaul, Russia
Quote:
The coolant temp sensor plays a HUGE role in adjusting the air fuel ratio and can cause the engine to run rich, and cause the cooling fans to turn on.

I replaced coolant sensor with new one (the one that's bigger) - 22630-AA041, and it didn't help at all.
Image

So I should change the ignition coil and spark plug wires then... I should check the throttle sensor first though... Still can't find time for that...

I've found new wires in my town for $50, should I change them WITH ignition coil or I can wait for new coil with new wires installed? I've found new coil in the online store, but I have to wait for it for about 20-30 days from America.

What about O2 sensor? Is there a way to check it, although it's new?

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