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 Post subject: The EJ20G ECU Thread
PostPosted: Mon Jun 13, 2011 5:41 am 
Fourth Gear
Joined: Fri May 04, 2007 4:09 pm
Posts: 2023
Location: N. ID
THIS IS A WORK IN PROGRESS - Please PM any suggestions/corrections.

This is a Sticky for the stock EJ20G ECUs and their use on the 1991-1994 US Domestic Market (USDM) Legacy SS and TW with the stock EJ22T engine. Thread also includes info on running the Rob Tune Chipped EJ20G ECU.

DISCLAIMER: Any changes made to your car are your responsibility and at your own risk. Please do your own research!

What's REALLY Required to Run an EJ20G ECU?
- Ignition adapter
- MAF
- Injectors
    - 440/450cc gray top side-feed from '92-'96 (?) JDM or UK WRX/Sti
- Turbo - not required, but recommended, as max. boost on VF11 is 12-14 psi
- Intercooler - highly recommended due to higher boost levels creating more heat
- Wiring
Edit - 3 additional things I recommend:
- Boost gauge (needed to see boost level and for MBC adjustment)
- MBC / Manual boost controller - Per Rob of 'Rob Tune' fame, "I always recommend a cheap manual boost controller, or any expensive EBC to manage boost." But not the stock Boost Control Solenoid (BCS). The stock Legacy SS/TW BCS DOES WORK w/the EJ20G ECU and the ECU's stock boost level will be used (see levels per ECU below) if preferred.
- REMEMBER > the EJ20G ECUs have fuel cut, too.
- ECU Case: The JECS-labeled case from a '92-'94 NA/non-turbo Legacy ECU works well w/the EJ20G's ECU board (not the '90-'91). The screws on the side match up and hold it in place like stock. Unscrew the 6 (PITA!) screws on the sides of the case, remove the 2 screws that attach the ECU board to the case's bottom piece, swap it to the bottom of the NA case, and reattach the cover. You'll likely need a set of vice-grips to remove 1 or more of the screws on the sides as they strip easily.

(See below for more details.)

LIST OF THREADS:
Rob's:
EJ20G "RobTune" Info- Info on getting a custom tune for the EJ20G ECUs. Please NOTE that only certain EJ20G ECUs can be tuned - reference the thread for specifics.

Rob's 4to2 Igntion Converter - This will simplify this task by installing a converter in the EJ22T's system that will work w/the EJ20G ECU.

Adapting an EJ20G ECU - Another thread by Rob to explain the techinal differences between the EJ22T and EJ20G ECUs. Includes How To reuse the stock ECU case for mounting in the stock location.


PhyrraM's:
How to: install a 4 channel ECU - Check this out if you want to save a few $$ and wire it yourself.

ECU INFO
Here's an incomplete list (scroll down for a list of injectors/turbos associated w/these ECUs):
U8, 2C - 1993/1994 WRX - 11.47psi
W6 - 1993 WRX RA - 11.47psi
W9 - 1994 WRX RA - 11.47psi
SA (STi chipped) - Ver1 STi (Sedan and Wagon) - 14.94psi
SB (STi chipped) - Ver1 STi-RA - 13.64psi
SC (STi chipped) - SAME AS Z4 - Ver2 STi Wagon - 12.78psi
Z4 - 1995/1996 WRX - 12.78psi
Z5 - 1995/1996 WRX-RA - 12.57psi
6K - Ver2 STi Sedan - 13.34psi
7K - Ver2 STi-RA - 13.19psi
Prodrive UK ECU (Prodrive Chipped) -- SAME AS 6K - 13.34psi
1C, 3B, V9, V5 - All WRX Wagons 10psi, dropping to 6.8psi
V7, 7D, 6D - 1993 to 1996 UK/Euro 11.47psi

Nearly all 4-plug EJ20G ECUs will work from Imprezas or Legacys that were available from 1989 (?) - 1996 (?).

Here's a list w/ECU, Injectors, and Turbos from HERE (remember, Rob's tune overrides the stock injector size so this is just for reference):
Impreza JDM / UK EJ20 ECU info:
Classic import (saloon) <sedan> '92- '94 (wagons are called 'estate')-
(note: 440cc = gray; 480cc =yellow as noted below.)
2C ECU code = 440cc injectors, 240ps TD05H turbo
W6 ECU code = 440cc injectors, 240ps TD05H turbo
U8 ECU code = 440cc injectors, 240ps TD05H turbo
SA ECU code = 440cc injectors 250ps TD05H turbo
SB ECU code = 440cc injectors 250ps TD05H turbo
Classic import- (saloon) 95-96
Z4 ECU code = 440cc injectors, 260ps TD05H turbo
Z5 ECU code = 440cc injectors, 260ps TD05H turbo
6K ECU code = 440cc injectors. 275ps TD05H turbo
7k ECU code = 440cc injectors, 275ps TD05H turbo

How To: 440cc Injectors in Legacy Turbo Rails
-Thread on installing the 440's.


Note on 440cc injectors. These are the JDM/UK Side-Feed, Gray top injectors. They are commonly referred to as '380cc' in the UK. I've emailed many sellers on ebay and they use '380' more often than not. If buying these injectors, make sure you understand what you're getting. My guess is the difference is due to the use of a different pressure standard in the UK vs. what the USDM market adheres to. I've also seen JDM/UK 480cc yellow tops, listed as 440cc on the ebay UK sites.
So, UK 380cc= 440cc, and UK 440cc= 480cc.
The 440's (UK 380's) actually flow closer to 450cc, when tested @ 43.5 psi/3BAR.
The JDM/UK 440's and 480's WILL FIT in the stock Turbo rails.

I don't know if the '02+ USDM WRX 440 top-feeds can be made to work w/the EJ22T intake.
And don't confuse the UK/JDM 480's w/the USDM STi 550's (closer to 525cc @ 3 BAR) used from '04-06, which are also side-feed yellow tops.

_________________
Turbo Subies:
'87 GL-10 Turbo 4WD Wagon (pre-Loyale) - SOLD
'90 BJ, EJ22T/DOHC and 5-speed swap - SOLD
'04 FXT, Forged internals, VF39, STI TMIC, Cobb AP- SOLD
'93 Legacy SS - 5-speed, '550' Rob Tune, +


Last edited by wtdash on Fri Aug 22, 2014 4:00 am, edited 69 times in total.

Profile  Offline
 
 Post subject: Re: THE EJ20G ECU Thread
PostPosted: Mon Jun 13, 2011 5:41 am 
Fourth Gear
Joined: Fri May 04, 2007 4:09 pm
Posts: 2023
Location: N. ID
More Specific Info.......


DISCLAIMER: Any changes made to your car are your responsibility and at your own risk. Please do your own research!



Why Bother?
Due to the recent interest in the 'Rob Tuned' EJ20G ECUs and their relative ease of use on our cars, I thought it was time to create a dedicated thread.

There is limited support for ECU-based upgrades on the stock EJ22T ECU, and adapting an EJ20G ECU is a viable option. The EJ20G ECUs were used on European/Australian/? and Japanese Subarus. Specifically, the Legacy and Impreza-WRX/STi. LINK for the EJ20G on Wikipedia.

Yes, you can install an MBC and FCD and up the boost on the stock EJ22T, but there won't be any tuning to take full advantage of the increased boost. And with the EJ20G ECU, you can better control bigger injectors and a bigger turbo.


What ECUs Will Work?
EJ20G ECUs were available from 1989 (?) - 1996 (?) and have the same 4-plug connector as used on the 1989-1994 USDM Legacy - turbo and NA use the same connector.

Here's an incomplete list (scroll down for a list of injectors/turbos associated w/these ECUs):
U8, 2C - 1993/1994 WRX - 11.47psi
W6 - 1993 WRX RA - 11.47psi
W9 - 1994 WRX RA - 11.47psi
SA (STi chipped) - Ver1 STi (Sedan and Wagon) - 14.94psi
SB (STi chipped) - Ver1 STi-RA - 13.64psi
SC (STi chipped) - SAME AS Z4 - Ver2 STi Wagon - 12.78psi
Z4 - 1995/1996 WRX - 12.78psi
Z5 - 1995/1996 WRX-RA - 12.57psi
6K - Ver2 STi Sedan - 13.34psi
7K - Ver2 STi-RA - 13.19psi
Prodrive UK ECU (Prodrive Chipped) -- SAME AS 6K - 13.34psi
1C, 3B, V9, V5 - All WRX Wagons 10psi, dropping to 6.8psi
V7, 7D, 6D - 1993 to 1996 UK/Euro 11.47psi

Nearly all 4-plug ECUs will work from Imprezas or Legacys.

Adapting an EJ20G ECU is another thread by Rob to explain the techinal differences between the EJ22T and EJ20G ECUs.


What is the benefit?
One very cool reason to install an EJ20G ECU is that most of these run more boost and will do so with this minimal list of changes, most of which are necessary to upgrade anyway. There is also more aftermarket support for these, albeit not much in the US, and there are ECUs from other companies that are a direct swap for the EJ20G ECUs.

What are the 'Gotchas'?

1. Intercoolers: All of the EJ20G Subarus used an intercooler (IC) that I've seen - I believe the USDM Legacy SS/TW were the only Subarus w/a turbo BUT no intercooler (excluding the earlier '80's GL/GL-10/XT models). The EJ20G used a top-mount IC (TMIC) or an Air-to-Water IC (AWIC).


2. Octane: I'm sketchy on the details of the exact comparison, but Japanese gas is reportedly much better than USA's. A Japenese-spec ECU may not work well even on US Premium/Super Unleaded.

The UK-spec ECUs are tuned for Premium that is very similar to 93 Octane that we can get. It's possible that certain EJ20G ECUs are tuned for a specific higher octane...still searching on that possibility.

I don't know what kind of 'petrol' the Aussie's have, so don't know what their ECUs are tuned for.


3. Cold (-blooded) Start tuning: Rumor has it, and my personal experience w/two different EJ20G ECUs confirms, that the EJ20Gs are cold-blooded. When the temps are below 50 it usually starts and stops, and then fires up normally on the 2nd try. I've not run (ran?) the EJ20G ECU thru a winter yet, so can't comment.
Once started/warmed-up it runs fine and restarts normally. Edit 7/2014: I ran it thru this last winter and it behaved the same. Although on really cold days -0° F - it would start fine sometimes??

****See specific info in post below********

EDIT: After I replaced pistons (low Comp on #2 - broken ringland), my car started fine....so in my case it was an engine issue - not ECU issue.

What If I Still Want More?

If the owner has the proper tuning tools, such as a wideband for Air-Fuel Ratios (AFRs), and a knock-lite, a Fuel-Cut Defender (FCD) could be installed to override the stock fuel-cut and allow increased boost to better utilize a bigger turbo.

Custom Tunes for the EJ20G ECU

EJ20G "RobTune" Info - Info on getting a custom tune for the EJ20G ECUs. Please NOTE that only certain EJ20G ECUs can be tuned - reference the thread for specifics.

Other EJ20G ECU compatible options:
SUBARU APEXI POWER FC and Commander - Replaces the EJ20G ECU and w/the commander is user-tunable.


What's REALLY Required to Run an EJ20G ECU?
- Ignition adapter
- MAF
- Injectors
- Turbo
- Intercooler
- Wiring
Edit - 2 additional things I recommend:
- Boost gauge (needed to see boost level and for MBC adjustment)
- MBC / Manual boost control - Rob doesn't recommend using the stock BCS (boost control solenoid) or other EBCS (Electronic BCS) to manage boost.

Ignition adapter

The EJ20G used a Coil on Plug (CoP) arrangement. This means there is no central coil pack as on the USDM Legacy, but an individual coil @ each spark plug. There are also 2 additional wires in the harness that run to the ECU connector for the EJ20G's ignition system. The EJ20 has a double-igniter/ignitor for the extra 2 channels, too.

NO - you DO NOT need to start looking for CoPs - the existing system can be used with a bit of adaption.....keep on reading.

Check out Rob's 4to2 Igntion Converter that will simplify this task by installing a converter in the EJ22T's system that will work w/the EJ20G ECU.

If you want to save a few $$ and wire it yourself, check out the How To Make 2-Channel Ignition = 4-Channel Ignition post below.


EJ22 Coil Pack (same as EJ22T):
Image

EJ20 Coil on Plug:
Image

EJ22 Igniter/Ignitor:
Image

EJ20 Igniter/Ignitor:
Image

How To Make 2-Channel Ignition = 4-Channel Ignition:

PhyrraM has created this thread to make the conversion:

How to: install a 4 channel ECU - Detailed thread on converting to a 4-channel ignition system compatible w/the EJ20G ECU



MAF

- JECS MAF - (From any NA (non-turbo) Subaru that used a JECS or AUTECS Green Label MAF from '90 - '99 )


Injectors
- 440cc or 480cc Injectors* (see below) - These fit the '91-94 turbo fuel rails. If using DOHC heads (EJ20 or EJ25D) you'll need the EJ20 fuel rails for both the EJ20 and EJ25D intake manifolds.

If using the the Rob Tuned EJ20G ECU:
- 550/525cc yellow side-feed injectors from '04-06 STi/OB XT/Forester XT/Legacy GT/Baja Turbo- These fit the '92+ NA SOHC rails or use the EJ25D rails w/the DOHC heads/intake.

*Note on 440cc injectors. These are the JDM/UK Side-Feed, Gray top injectors. They are commonly referred to as '380cc' in the UK. I've emailed many sellers on ebay and they use '380' more often than not. If buying these injectors, make sure you understand what you're getting. My guess is the difference is due to the use of a different pressure standard in the UK vs. what the USDM market adheres to. I've also seen JDM/UK 480cc yellow tops, listed as 440cc on the ebay UK sites.
The 440's actually flow closer to 450cc, when tested @ 43.5 psi/3BAR.
The JDM 440's and 480's WILL FIT in the stock Turbo rails.

Here's a way to view the EJ20's different version injectors and their rates with pressure:
From NASIOC:
..............................pressure (Bar) 2.55 3.05 3.55

GC8 VerⅠ、Ⅱ ej20G,ej20h (89-9/97) 440c 480cc 520cc

GC8 VerⅢ、Ⅳ ej20k,ej20R (9/97-9/99) 480cc 520cc 550cc

GC8 Ver Ⅴ,VI ej205,ej207 (9/99-9/01) 490cc 530cc 560cc

HERE is a thread on installing the 440's.
I don't know if the '02+ USDM WRX 440 top-feeds can be made to work w/the EJ22T intake.
And don't confuse the UK/JDM 480's w/the USDM STi 550's (closer to 525cc @ 3 BAR) used from '04-06, which are also side-feed yellow tops.

Turbo

The stock EJ22T's VF11 would work w/any of the ECU's that don't exceed 12-14 Psi, as that's the limit of the VF11. But it'll also likely shorten the life of the VF11 as it will be working very hard @ those levels. Plus, it defeats a big reason for upgrading to an EJ20G ECU anyway - More Power!

Recommended:
- TD04 or TD05/VF39
There were a variety of turbos used - many VF-series models (btw, the # doesn't specify a size. The #'s increment w/each successive model.)
A great list of turbos is HERE on NASIOC.

The USDM WRX TD04 is easy and cheap to get, and is a small upgrade over the VF11. The VF39 from the USDM STi is major upgrade and is very similar to the TD05-16G that was used on the EJ20G cars.

Here's a list of models w/ECU, Injectors, and Turbos:
Impreza JDM / UK EJ20 ECU info:
Classic import (saloon) <sedan> (wagons are called 'estate')- 92- 94

(note: 440cc = gray; 480cc =yellow as noted above.)

2C ECU code = 440cc injectors, 240ps TD05H turbo

W6 ECU code = 440cc injectors, 240ps TD05H turbo

U8 ECU code = 440cc injectors, 240ps TD05H turbo

SA ECU code = 440cc injectors 250ps TD05H turbo

SB ECU code = 440cc injectors 250ps TD05H turbo

Classic import- (saloon) 95-96

Z4 ECU code = 440cc injectors, 260ps TD05H turbo

Z5 ECU code = 440cc injectors, 260ps TD05H turbo

6K ECU code = 440cc injectors. 275ps TD05H turbo

7k ECU code = 440cc injectors, 275ps TD05H turbo



None of the below ECU's will work as they are 3-plug, not the 4-plug required.- EJ20K engine:

Classic import- (saloon) 97-98

IS ECU code = 480cc injectors, 280ps VF22 turbo

6S ECU code = 480cc injectors, 300ps VF23 turbo

75 ECU code = 480cc injectors, 280ps VF24 turbo

Classic import- (saloon) 99-00

A8 ECU code = 480cc injectors, 280ps VF22

A7 ECU code = 480cc injectors, 280ps VF22

J2 ECU code = 480cc injectors, 280ps VF28/VF29

More ECU info:
U8, 2C - 1993/1994 WRX – TDO5-11.47PSI (0.8BAR) TO REDLINE -FUELCUT 14.5PSI (1BAR) - 240PS (237BHP)
W6 - 1993 WRX RA – TDO5- 11.47PSI (0.8BAR) -FUELCUT 14.5PSI (1BAR) - 240PS (237BHP)
W9 - 1994 WRX RA - 11.47PSI (0.8BAR) -FUELCUT 14.5PSI (1BAR) - 240PS (237BHP)
SA (STI CHIPPED) - VER1 STI (SEDAN AND WAGON)- 14.94PSI
SB (STI CHIPPED) - VER1 STI-RA - 13.64PSI
SC (STI CHIPPED) – SAME AS Z4 - VER2 STI WAGON - -12.7PSI (0.9BAR), DROPPING TO 11.7PSI (0.8BAR) @ 6600RPM - FUEL CUT 15.65PSI (1.08BAR)-260PS (256BHP) - 7250RPM
Z4 - 1995/1996 WRX – SAME AS SC- 12.7PSI (0.9BAR), DROPPING TO 11.7PSI (0.8BAR) @ 6600RPM - FUEL CUT 15.65PSI (1.08BAR) - 260PS (256 BHP) – 7250RPM
Z5 - 1995/1996 WRX-RA - 12.57PSI
6K - VER2 STI SEDAN – SAME AS PRODRIVE-TDO5- 13.33PSI (0.92BAR) BUT PEAKS TO 13.6PSI (0.94BAR) @ 5600RPM, THEN DROPS TO 12.71PSI (0.87BAR) @ 6600RPM- FUEL CUT 15.65PSI (1.07BAR)-7500RPM-380CC
7K - VER2 STI-RA - 13.17PSI(0.9BAR) BUT PEAKS TO 13.64PSI (0.94BAR) @ 5800RPM- FUEL CUT 15.96PSI (1.1BAR)
PRODRIVE UK ECU (PRODRIVE CHIPPED) – SAME AS 6K – 13.33PSI (0.92BAR) BUT PEAKS TO 13.6PSI (0.94BAR) @ 5600RPM, THEN DROPS TO 12.71PSI (0.87BAR) @ 6600RPM- FUEL CUT 15.65PSI (1.07BAR)-7500RPM-380CC
1C, 3B, V9, V5 , V9, 4B, ALL(?TBC) WRX WAGONS - 10.55PSI (0.7BAR) DROPPING TO 6.84PSI (0.5BAR) STARTS TO DROP @ 5000RPM – FUEL CUT 13.79PSI (0.95BAR) -
V7, 7D, 6D - 1993 TO 1996 UK/EURO - 11.4PSI (0.8BAR), DROPPING TO 9.4PSI (0.65BAR) @ 6600RPM – BOOST CUT 14.87PSI (1BAR)


Intercooler
As stated above, the EJ20G used a top-mount IC (TMIC) or an Air-to-Water IC (AWIC). The best-fitting TMIC for the Legacy EJ22T is the '06-07 WRX and '07-08 Forester TMIC, and there are PLENTY of threads on here about fitting one.

A front-mount IC (FMIC) is also doable, but a heck of a lot more work as there is no (known to me) plug-n-play option.

There are a still a few of the AWICs floating around and they will work, too. They also require a bunch more work to install vs. a TMIC, due to their pumps/radiator/etc. Search this site for more info.

The hood scoop on the stock SS/TW is small. Does it inhibit flow? Probably. Search on here for installing a custom scoop or making a WRX fit.

Wiring
The ignition differences are described above, but the MAP sensor also needs addressed. Otherwise, it'll throw a code - 45. The solution is to remove pin 5 on B48 and join it with pin 21 on B48 @ the ECU connector.

Boost Gauge
Any boost gauge that reads up to 20 PSI should suffice. I'd ensure it also reads Vacuum - down to -20 as well. This can help w/engine health issues. Search on here for the best source for the vacuum line.

Manual Boost Controller (MBC)
The EJ20G tune works best w/an MBC, set to whatever you and Rob decide is best for your setup. You CAN use the stock BCS as the WRX/STi came w/the same or similar BCS as the Legacy, but the car runs better and is More Fun w/the MBC. (One caveat to an MBC w/an Automatic transmision: If you're driving on slippery surfaces and climbing a hill, boost comes on strong if you kick down and may also kick-out your car's rear end - be ready!) Basic is all you need, as I used one of these off Ebay for years w/out issue:
Image

_________________
Turbo Subies:
'87 GL-10 Turbo 4WD Wagon (pre-Loyale) - SOLD
'90 BJ, EJ22T/DOHC and 5-speed swap - SOLD
'04 FXT, Forged internals, VF39, STI TMIC, Cobb AP- SOLD
'93 Legacy SS - 5-speed, '550' Rob Tune, +


Last edited by wtdash on Tue Jul 22, 2014 5:01 am, edited 25 times in total.

Profile  Offline
 
 Post subject: Re: THE EJ20G ECU Thread
PostPosted: Mon Jun 13, 2011 5:42 am 
Fourth Gear
Joined: Fri May 04, 2007 4:09 pm
Posts: 2023
Location: N. ID
Pics of 1996 WRX EJ20G ECU Pinout - from HERE- I 'think' these are correct for earlier models, too.
Pic LINK
Image
PIC LINK:

Image


ECU Diagnostics, Reset, Error Codes & Sensors Page - from HERE. USE THE LINK - it's easier to read and has additional info. I just copied/pasted.
Contents
ECU Diagnostics
ECU Reset
Finding those Connectors
Reading ECU Codes
Impreza ECU Codes
Other Subaru ECU Codes
Sensors
Contact Information

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ECU Diagnostics
The ECU can diagnose any fault that may arise due to abnormal signals that are sent to the controller. The ECU Check Engine will illuminate in the instrument console if there is a problem with any of the computers inputs. It is possible to find which sensor(s) is faulty by following these steps:
Turn ignition OFF
Connect read memory connectors
(jumper 5) [black connectors]
Turn ignition ON (Engine OFF)
Engine Check lamp turns on
Code is indicated by Pulsing lamp
If Code is OK then Turn ignition OFF & Disconnect Connectors
Check ECU Code
Turn ignition OFF & Disconnect Connectors
If there is a fault Check Appropriate Sensor

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ECU Reset
On early MYs (especially pre MY97) the ECU retards the ignition when knock is detected, however, it is very slow to advance the timing again. An ECU reset will restore the car to factory default settings. This will remove any stored fault codes and restore ignition advance. It is possible to reset the ECU by following these steps:
Turn ignition OFF
Connect Read Memory Connectors & Test Mode Connectors
(jumper 5) [black connectors] – (jumper 6) [green connectors]
Turn ignition ON (engine off)
Engine Check lamp turns on
Depress accelerator pedal completely
Then return it to the half-throttle position and hold it there for two seconds
Release pedal completely
Start engine
Code is indicated by Pulsing lamp
If a fault is detected - Check ECU Code
If no fault is detected - drive the car sensible for a couple of minutes
i.e. until warm (do not run tall & do not thrash it!)
When the ECU has been reset the Check Engine Light will flash
Code is indicated by Pulsing lamp
If a fault is detected Check ECU Code
Turn ignition OFF & Disconnect Connectors
If there is a fault Check Appropriate Sensor

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Finding Those Connectors
As said above, in order to perform diagnostic & ECU resets you need to find the Black Read Memory Connectors & the Green Test mode Connectors (alternatively there is the dash option shown above but this is even more tricky). The connectors are located under the dash up by the steering column. If they have not been used before they are usually taped quite high up & can be difficult to find, but they are there, once untaped they dangle down and are quite easy to use. Here is a poor photograph of the Black Read Memory Connectors & Green Test Mode Connectors on my Scooby.

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Reading ECU Codes
The ECU codes are displayed as pulses of the Check Engine Light.
If Check Engine Light goes out there is no fault.

In Diagnostic Mode – No Fault is indicated by the Check Engine Light continuously & evenly flashing on/off (this is also used to indicate the successful completion of an ECU Reset).
The long pulses (1.3 Seconds) indicate Tens and the short pulses (0.2 Seconds) indicate ones. Pulses are separated by Short Pauses (0.2 Seconds), multiple codes are separated by a Long Pause (1.8 Seconds).
The simplest way for an inexperienced mechanic to retrieve codes is to write the codes down in a sort of Morse Code (dots and dashes), and start a new line when you get a 1.8 Second pause (for NEW code), and
then add the actual numbers up after code retrieval is completed.
(See Example Below)
--- CODE EXAMPLE, SINGLE CODE ---

1.3 second pulse (10)
0.2 second pause
1.3 second pulse (10....for a total of 20)
0.2 second pause
0.2 second pulse (1.....for a total of 21)
0.2 second pause
0.2 second pulse (1.....for a total of 22)
0.2 second pause
0.2 second pulse (1.....for a total of 23)
(Code 23 -- MAF Sensor)

--- CODE EXAMPLE, MULTIPLE CODE ---

1.3 second pulse (10)
0.2 second pause
1.3 second pulse (10....for a total of 20)
0.2 second pause
0.2 second pulse (1.....for a total of 21)
0.2 second pause
0.2 second pulse (1.....for a total of 22)
0.2 second pause
0.2 second pulse (1.....for a total of 23)


1.8 second pause (this means NEW code)


1.3 second pulse (10)
0.2 second pause
0.2 second pulse (1.....for a total of 11)
0.2 second pause
.2 second pulse (1.....for a total of 12)

(Codes 23 and 12, MAF Sensor and Starter Circuit)

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Impreza Codes
These are the Impreza Error codes that are documented in the Workshop Manual & Stored in the ECU.
Note – not all error codes are not stored and are not documented (though they are all decoded by a Select Monitor) some of these may be found in the next section.
Code ITEM
11 Crankshaft position sensor
12 Starter switch
13 Camshaft position sensor
21 Engine coolant temperature sensor
22 Knock sensor
23 Mass air flow sensor
24 Idle air control solenoid
31 Throttle position sensor
32 Oxygen sensor
33 Vehicle speed sensor 2
35 Purge control solenoid valve
42 Idle switch
44 Wastegate control solenoid valve
45 Pressure sensor –Pressure exchange solenoid valve
51 Neutral position switch

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Other Subaru Codes
These codes are not documented in the Impreza Workshop manual but are mentioned in other Subaru Documentation (and can be decoded by a Select Monitor), these may or may not be applicable to the Impreza.
Code ITEM
11 Crank Angle Sensor or Circuit
12 Starter Switch or Circuit
13 Cam Position Sensor or Circuit (TDC Sensor on Justy)
14 Fuel Injector No. 1 (Legacy, Impreza, Justy, SVX)
15 Fuel Injector No. 2 (Legacy, Impreza, Justy, SVX)
16 Fuel Injector No. 3 (Legacy, Impreza, Justy, SVX)
17 Fuel Injector No. 4 (Legacy, Impreza, SVX)
18 Fuel Injector No. 5 (SVX)
19 Fuel Injector No. 6 (SVX)
21 Coolant Temperature Sensor or Circuit
22 Knock Sensor or Circuit (Right Side on SVX)
23 Air Flow Meter or Circuit (Exc. Justy)
24 Air Control Valve or Circuit (Exc. Justy)
25 Fuel injector No. 3 and 4 (XT-6)
26 Air Temperature Sensor (Justy)
28 Knock Sensor No. 2 (SVX, Left Side)
29 Crank Angle Sensor (SVX, No. 2)
31 Throttle Position Sensor or Circuit
32 Oxygen Sensor or Circuit (No. 1, Right Side, On SVX)
33 Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) or Circuit
34 EGR Solenoid or Circuit
35 Purge Control Solenoid or Circuit
36 Air Suction Solenoid Valve (Impreza)
37 Oxygen Sensor (No. 2, Left Side, On SVX)
38 Engine Torque Control (SVX)
41 Air/Fuel Adaptive Control
42 Idle Switch or Circuit
43 Throttle Switch
44 Wastegate Duty Solenoid (Turbo Models)
45 Pressure Sensor Duty Solenoid (Turbo Models)
45 Atmospheric Pressure Sensor or Circuit (Non-Turbo Models)
46 Neutral or Parking Switch or Circuit
47 Fuel Injector
49 Airflow Sensor
51 Neutral Switch (Manual Transmission Models)
51 Inhibitor Switch (Automatic Transmission Models)
52 Parking Brake Switch (Exc. Justy)
53 Fuel Pump or Circuit
54 Choke Control System
55 EGR Temperature Sensor or Circuit
56 EGR System
57 Canister Control System
58 Air Control System
61 Fuel Tank Pressure Control Solenoid (Impreza)
62 Fuel Temperature Sensor (Impreza)
63 Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor (Impreza)
64 Vacuum Line Control Valve or Circuit
65 Vacuum Pressure Sensor
66 Sequential turbo system
67 Exhaust valve solenoid (positive pressure)
68 Exhaust valve duty solenoid
71 Ignition Pulse System
73 Ignition Pulse System
74 Ignition Pulse System
88 TBI Control Unit

Back to top
Sensors
All Sensors
Under bonnet view of all sensors
Individual Sensors
Sensor Diagnostics
- Starter switch is abnormal
- Neutral position switch is abnormal.(AT)
3
Wastegate control solenoid valve is not functioning
1
Pressure sensor is abnormal
2
Pressure exchange solenoid valve is not functioning
5
Mass air flow sensor signal is abnormal
6
Oxygen sensor is not functioning
7
Vehicle speed sensor 2 is not functioning
8
Engine coolant temperature sensor signal is abnormal
9
Throttle position sensor signal is abnormal
9
Idle switch signal is abnormal
10
Idle air control solenoid valve is not functioning
11
Knock sensor signal is abnormal
12
No signal from camshaft position sensor, but signal from crankshaft position sensor
13
No signal from crankshaft position sensor when starter switch is ON
14
Purge control solenoid valve is not functioning

Back to top
Contact Information
E-mail address
Chris.Palmer@mailcity.com or Chris.Palmer@saxonfields.freeserve.co.uk
Web address
Home Page

Back to top

Last revised: Date : 31st August 2004

MORE EJ20G INFO from HERE - that I absolutely take no responsibility for.
Quote:
Ej20G varients.
to address the first thing people think of when EJ20G comes to mind;

Closed deck vs open deck.

I'm here to publicly state that closed deck is stupid. Sorry mike shields fanboys, sorry mike shields. closed deck is pointless. an open deck Ej20 can do 60 psi before the cylinder walls crack. Everyone knows that the person behind the closed deck theory has a EJ20g in his car, I know that he runs a stock ecu and dosn't go over stock 1 bar of boost. Car vs car, the WRX-RA we put together in 16 hours would beat his closed deck SPD special in a drag race.

closed deck has no advantage unless you are going over 600 AWHP. if you dont have a GT40R on your workbench, dont even think about debating with me that open deck is better than closed.

this being stated, lets go on to outline the differnt varients of EJ20g

All ej20G's have the same Forged crankshaft, Forged connecting rods, cylinderheads, Valves, Cams, exhaust manifold, up pipe, downpipe, throttlebody, fuel injectors and complete electrical system (ABS cars have abs added in, power windows, etc)

Ej20G wagons had td04 turbines. Ej20g wagon Sti-s had TD05-16g turbines
all wrx sedans had Td05-16g's. same turbine on sti, sti- ra, wrx-ra. all identical

the WRX-RA and Sti-RA have a 5th injector plumbed in the centre of the intake manifold. it dosnt do anything. it dosnt even work

Sti ej20g motors have a painted red intake manifold. only differance is the paint. sti-RA's have a non-painted manifold with a 5th injector

supposedly the STi engine ej20G and Sti-ra have forged pistons. I have yet to have a need to remove pistons to weight them, we'll verify this eventually sometime by comparing a normal wrx and sti piston

valvetrain on all EJ20G's with exception of the rare Sti-RA only are HLA under bucket. all cams are same duration and profile. only the sti-ra has mechanical valvetrain- little liter disc shims under the buckets.

Besides for these minor changes, the only major differance between any varient of ej20G (assuming sedan td05 turbine) is really the ECU. the ECU is everything in these cars, if you plug a sti-RA ecu into a normal WRX ej20g....... you get STi-RA performance. the td05 turbine is out of efficiency range by 7300rpm at best, HLA's will spin to 8500 before floating - you do the math. usually a shift is best performed by the time 7k rolls around


More EJ20x ECU info:

For those of you requiring Specs and stats on your Classic ECU's, ECU model codes, which cars they belong to and the injectors/ boost levels etc..., that run with them please look at the info below.
This list is not exhaustive but I hope it helps some of you and at the very least points you in the right direction. If you think the info is incorrect please let me know, i'll investigate, and if you are correct i will amend it accordingly but please do not bust my balls about it because all you will get from me is short sharp shrift and be told to FOAD.
I'll pin this up for a while.
Francis
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
U8, 2C - 1993/1994 WRX – TDO5-11.47PSI (0.8BAR) TO REDLINE -FUELCUT 14.5PSI (1BAR) - 240PS (237BHP)
W6 - 1993 WRX RA – TDO5- 11.47PSI (0.8BAR) -FUELCUT 14.5PSI (1BAR) - 240PS (237BHP)
W9 - 1994 WRX RA - 11.47PSI (0.8BAR) -FUELCUT 14.5PSI (1BAR) - 240PS (237BHP)
SA (STI CHIPPED) - VER1 STI (SEDAN AND WAGON)- 14.94PSI
SB (STI CHIPPED) - VER1 STI-RA - 13.64PSI
SC (STI CHIPPED) – SAME AS Z4 - VER2 STI WAGON - -12.7PSI (0.9BAR), DROPPING TO 11.7PSI (0.8BAR) @ 6600RPM - FUEL CUT 15.65PSI (1.08BAR)-260PS (256BHP) - 7250RPM
Z4 - 1995/1996 WRX – SAME AS SC- 12.7PSI (0.9BAR), DROPPING TO 11.7PSI (0.8BAR) @ 6600RPM - FUEL CUT 15.65PSI (1.08BAR) - 260PS (256 BHP) – 7250RPM
Z5 - 1995/1996 WRX-RA - 12.57PSI
6K - VER2 STI SEDAN – SAME AS PRODRIVE-TDO5- 13.33PSI (0.92BAR) BUT PEAKS TO 13.6PSI (0.94BAR) @ 5600RPM, THEN DROPS TO 12.71PSI (0.87BAR) @ 6600RPM- FUEL CUT 15.65PSI (1.07BAR)-7500RPM-380CC
7K - VER2 STI-RA - 13.17PSI(0.9BAR) BUT PEAKS TO 13.64PSI (0.94BAR) @ 5800RPM- FUEL CUT 15.96PSI (1.1BAR)
PRODRIVE UK ECU (PRODRIVE CHIPPED) – SAME AS 6K – 13.33PSI (0.92BAR) BUT PEAKS TO 13.6PSI (0.94BAR) @ 5600RPM, THEN DROPS TO 12.71PSI (0.87BAR) @ 6600RPM- FUEL CUT 15.65PSI (1.07BAR)-7500RPM-380CC
1C, 3B, V9, V5 , V9, 4B, ALL(?TBC) WRX WAGONS - 10.55PSI (0.7BAR) DROPPING TO 6.84PSI (0.5BAR) STARTS TO DROP @ 5000RPM – FUEL CUT 13.79PSI (0.95BAR) -
V7, 7D, 6D - 1993 TO 1996 UK/EURO - 11.4PSI (0.8BAR), DROPPING TO 9.4PSI (0.65BAR) @ 6600RPM – BOOST CUT 14.87PSI (1BAR)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Classic import (saloon)- 92- 94:
2C ECU code = 380cc injectors, 240ps TD05H turbo
W6 ECU code = 380cc injectors, 240ps TD05H turbo
U8 ECU code = 380cc injectors, 240ps TD05H turbo
SA ECU code = 380cc injectors 250ps TD05H turbo
SB ECU code = 380cc injectors 250ps TD05H turbo
Classic import- (saloon) 95-96:
Z4 ECU code = 380cc injectors, 260ps TD05H turbo
Z5 ECU code = 380cc injectors, 260ps TD05H turbo
6K ECU code = 380cc injectors. 275ps TD05H turbo
7k ECU code = 380cc injectors, 275ps TD05H turbo
Classic import- (saloon) 97-98:
IS ECU code = 440cc injectors, 280ps VF22 turbo
6S ECU code = 440cc injectors, 300ps VF23 turbo
75 ECU code = 440cc injectors, 280ps VF24 turbo -
Classic import- (saloon) 99-00:
A8 ECU code = 440cc injectors, 280ps VF22
A7 ECU code = 440cc injectors, 280ps VF22
J2 ECU code = 440cc injectors, 280ps VF28/VF29
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
VER MODEL SPEC TRANS ECU ECU PART AFM MAP NOTES
Ver 3 GC8 D WRX MT 1S AC721 D55 E AA271 Orange AA090 VF22 EJ20K Yellow Injectors
WRX AT 3S AC740 D34 AA090 TD04 EJ20G Grey Injectors
WRX-RA MT 1S AC722 D68 E AA271 Orange AA090 VF? EJ20K Yellow Injectors
STI MT 6S AD170 D35 E AA271 Orange AA090 VF23 EJ20K Yellow Injectors
STI-R MT 6S AD170 D35 E AA271 Orange AA090 VF23 EJ20K Yellow Injectors
STI-RA MT 6S AD170 D35 E AA271 Orange AA090 VF23 EJ20K Yellow Injectors
GF8 D WRX MT 2S AC730 D32 TD04 EJ20G Grey Injectors
WRX AT 3S AC741 TD04 EJ20G Grey Injectors
STI MT 6S AD170 D35 E AA271 Orange AA090 VF23 EJ20K Yellow Injectors
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
VER MODEL SPEC TRANS ECU ECU PART AFM
Ver2 GC8C STI-RA MT 7K AC710 D22 AA160 Green
7K = reference code for easy identification.
22611 AC710 = This is the Subaru Part number for this ECU.
22611 (ECU part category)
AC710 (Part revision)
A18-000-D22 = Unisia Jecs part number. (Jecs builds the ECU for Subaru)
D22 (Part revision) this number is usually found on a sticker on the socket. This ties the case to the ECU board. [up to version 3 afaik]
5X11 = ECU serial number
note: sometimes the ECU revision may be out by a few numbers eg. AC710 -> AC711 This is the same ECU with a minor revision, possibly to the tune or maybe to correct a bug. Only Jecs knows.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Impreza 1993-1996
Impreza 1993-1996 UK/GT/Aus WRX
ECU Code 7D or V7 : 11.47psi (UK Spec/Aus WRX)
ECU Code 6D : 11.47psi (GT/Euro model) Impreza 1993-1996 UK Prodrive upgrade
ECU Code 7D or V7 : 13.64psi (actually the STi 2 6K map) Impreza WRX 1993-1994
ECU Code W6, U8 or 2C : 11.47psi Impreza WRX RA 1993-1994
ECU Code W9 : 11.47psi
Impreza STi 1 1993-1994
ECU Code SA : 14.87psi
Impreza STi RA 1993-1994
ECU Code SB : 14.87psi dropping to 13.64psi (very lean fuelling )
Impreza WRX 1994-1996
ECU Code Z4 : 12.7psi
Impreza WRX RA 1994-1996
ECU Code Z5 : 12.7psi
Impreza STi 2 1994-1996 (inc 555 Sp.Ed)
ECU Code 6K : 13.64psi
Impreza STi 2 RA 1994-1996
ECU Code 7K : 13.64psi
Impreza WRX Wagon 1993-1996
ECU Code 1C, 3B, V9 : 10.5spi (peak) dropping to 6.8psi
Impreza WRX Wagon/Saloon Auto 1993-1996
ECU Code B4, V5 : 10.5spi (peak) dropping to 6.8psi
Impreza STi Wagon 1994-1996
ECU Code SC : 12.7psi (actually the Z4 Map from saloon, as has TD05)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Impreza 1996/1997-1998:
RA STi Ver4 - 97/98 - MT - 75 - 22611AE360
STi Ver4 - 97/98 - MT - 75 - 22611AE360
WRX - 97/98 - MT - 88 - 22611AE380
R STi Ver4 - 97/98 - MT - 75 - 22611AE360
WRX RA - 97/98 - MT - 75 - 22611AE360
WRX - 97/98 - MT - 88 - 22611AE380
WRX - 97/98 - AT - 89/8Z - 22611AD730
STi Ver4 - 97/98 - MT - 75 - 22611AE360
WRX - 97/98 - AT - 89/8Z - 22611AD730
WRX RA - 96/97 - MT - 6S - 22611AD170
WRX - 96/97 - MT - 1S - 22611AC722
STi Ver3 - 96/97 - MT - 1S - 22611AC722
WRX - 96/97 - MT - 2S - 22611AC741
WRX - 96/97 - AT - 3S - 22611AC731
WRX - 96/97 - AT - 3S - 22611AC731
R STi - 96/97 - MT - 6S - 22611AD170
RA STi Ver3 - 96/97 - MT - 6S - 22611AD170
STi Ver3 - 96/97 - MT - 6S - 22611AD170

_________________
Turbo Subies:
'87 GL-10 Turbo 4WD Wagon (pre-Loyale) - SOLD
'90 BJ, EJ22T/DOHC and 5-speed swap - SOLD
'04 FXT, Forged internals, VF39, STI TMIC, Cobb AP- SOLD
'93 Legacy SS - 5-speed, '550' Rob Tune, +


Last edited by wtdash on Sun Apr 06, 2014 5:49 am, edited 8 times in total.

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 Post subject: Re: THE EJ20G ECU Thread
PostPosted: Mon Jun 13, 2011 6:44 pm 
Site Admin
Site Admin
Joined: Tue Oct 15, 2002 11:37 am
Posts: 25296
Location: Houston, Tx
Added to sticky thread.

_________________
Josh

surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
1997 Impreza OBS

If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm


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 Post subject: Re: THE EJ20G ECU Thread
PostPosted: Fri May 11, 2012 2:13 am 
Moderator
Moderator
Joined: Tue Aug 25, 2009 7:52 am
Posts: 3070
Location: Puyallup, Wa
Nice work Todd! Hadn't commented before but I figure you deserve mad props for this. ;)

_________________
Current Subarus:
1992 5mt SS - Build in progress
2000 5mt RS - Stock DD, finished collecting parts for ej207 swap.


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 Post subject: Re: THE EJ20G ECU Thread
PostPosted: Fri May 11, 2012 4:02 pm 
Fourth Gear
Joined: Fri May 04, 2007 4:09 pm
Posts: 2023
Location: N. ID
Thanks.....glad @ least 2 people read it. :-)

Ok..it's had 999 Views as of today......maybe a couple others. ;-)

TD

_________________
Turbo Subies:
'87 GL-10 Turbo 4WD Wagon (pre-Loyale) - SOLD
'90 BJ, EJ22T/DOHC and 5-speed swap - SOLD
'04 FXT, Forged internals, VF39, STI TMIC, Cobb AP- SOLD
'93 Legacy SS - 5-speed, '550' Rob Tune, +


Last edited by wtdash on Fri May 11, 2012 5:34 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: THE EJ20G ECU Thread
PostPosted: Fri May 11, 2012 5:24 pm 
In Neutral
Joined: Sun Dec 18, 2011 2:28 am
Posts: 3
This guy is awesome. I own his old legacy, and he has been extremely helpful to me. He definately put in alot of time learning all this stuff. :smt023


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 Post subject: Re: THE EJ20G ECU Thread
PostPosted: Fri May 11, 2012 5:32 pm 
Fourth Gear
Joined: Fri May 04, 2007 4:09 pm
Posts: 2023
Location: N. ID
Thanks Eric!

_________________
Turbo Subies:
'87 GL-10 Turbo 4WD Wagon (pre-Loyale) - SOLD
'90 BJ, EJ22T/DOHC and 5-speed swap - SOLD
'04 FXT, Forged internals, VF39, STI TMIC, Cobb AP- SOLD
'93 Legacy SS - 5-speed, '550' Rob Tune, +


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 Post subject: Re: THE EJ20G ECU Thread
PostPosted: Sat Jul 28, 2012 8:13 am 
First Gear
Joined: Sat Aug 15, 2009 3:00 am
Posts: 142
Location: Fairbanks, Alaska
Great thread wtdash! It answered a couple questions I was having.

Now I just need to hear back from rob about buying the ignition adapter and this ECU and I'll be set to go.

_________________
Check out my project car build threads, 1995 - Impreza 2-door & 1991 - Legacy SS.


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 Post subject: Re: The EJ20G ECU Thread
PostPosted: Mon Sep 30, 2013 5:55 pm 
Fourth Gear
Joined: Fri May 04, 2007 4:09 pm
Posts: 2023
Location: N. ID
PENDING

Cold (-blooded) Start issues with EJ20G ECU

Consolidating all I've learned on the cold-start issue.

Links:
NASIOC
NASIOC2
RS25.com
RS25.com - 2 - fuel pump
JDMVIP - NEW IAC didn't fix it.
JDMVIP -2 - Put dielectric grease on 'some terminals' - cam/crank sensor?
RSLIBERTY- FPR


-When car has sat for 4+ hours it will not start and or idle correctly on the first try. Especially as the weather gets colder - <50° F. This is the only symptom. If it doesn't idle correctly when warm/starts hard when warm/has hesitation or jerkiness when driving, it's 'likely' a different issue.

EDIT-12/9/2013: The last week has been cold (@ least for our area) w/temps near 0°F @ night 15°F for highs. The last 2 times the car has started right up...WTH?

Parts people have tried replacing/fixing/cleaning to address issue:
-IAC
-Camshaft sensor
-Crankshaft sensor
-Fuel Pump
-Fuel Injectors
-Fuel Filter
-Coolant Temperature Sensor (CTS)
-Fuel Pressure Regulator- FPR
-Coil pack (?)

IACV:
Idle air control valve or ISC (Idle speed control) can be cleaned by spraying brake cleaner or other NON-accumulating cleaner (don't use WD-40 as it'll leave a film) into the air tube from the intake. Read THIS THREAD for a How-To.
Ideally, you want to move the valve back and forth as it's being sprayed, but hard to access on the turbo version - NASIOC thread on different types used on older Subarus - (EJ25D = EJ22). Best way to clean it is to remove it, which is a PITA on the turbo models:
Image

-Clean IAC - stage 1: Sprayed brake cleaner down the air tube = No Better

Pending;
-Clean IAC - stage 2 (see below - couldn't remove it w/my tool collection)

Edit 2/1/14: Over the previous month my idle was getting worse. It got to the point where the car would die when I came to a stoplight - warming up or @ operating temp. I went to remove the IAC and didn't have the tools to access the two lower bolts w/the turbo installed. I'm sure it can be done...just not w/my limited toolbox. So, I decided to just replace the top portion from another Legacy EJ22T IAC I had avl. This fixed the idle issue and has made the cold-start issue about 50% better...meaning it now starts on the 1st try about 50% of the time. Temps have been between 20-35° F, which is relative to the cold-start issue.

I did NOT completely remove my IAC, just unscrewed the two phillips head screws, noted their location - if there's white marks reuse those - and swap parts. While I had the top off, I sprayed brake cleaner down the IAC's air tube while manually turning the valve's shaft back and forth. There is a rubber O-ring which might come loose when removing the top, so note its location. (NOTE: I had bunch of white smoke, like using Seafoam to clean the intake, after restarting. I also had blue smoke for a 30 minute drive as I must have loosened up some accumulated oil or carbon deposits).

Here's what I replaced (LINK to source).:

Quote:
Mark the position of the screws with a marker of some kind... you may still see the white factory marks so you can also use those. I can't remember if the brake cleaner cleans off the factory white marks so perhaps it's best to use a permanent marker.

Image


Popping the top off....... there's some funky magnetic resistance but it'll come off.

Image

Camshaft sensor/Crankshaft sensor:
-People (Rob F) have reported replacing these (Crank sensor is $266.57 and the cam sensor is $142.92 - from online Subie dealer) which has fixed the cold-start issue. One post (JDMVP-2) stated his "mechanic put dielectric grease on all the engine wiring harness connectors" which helped.

- I pulled my sensors 'looked fine', and put the dielectric grease on the cam/crank connectors under the throttle body = No Better


Fuel Pump:
- Upgrading to a Walbro fixed THIS GUY's (post #2) issue.

- I have a newer (but still used) STi pump (50K miles) that I installed b4 I did the Rob Tune. Might be something to look into.

Fuel Injectors:
- -Checked spark plugs for fuel (leaky injector)- Pulled all 4 plugs and they looked good and dry:
Image

Fuel Filter:
-Replaced fuel filter when I did the clutch about 1K miles ago = No Better


CTS:
-New installed when put in the TMIC about 2K miles ago = No Better

FPR:
- I used the FPR on the stock EJ22 NA rails I that used for the 525cc injectors, as I read on here they are the same as the turbo version.

Per JC's parts catalog they are the same for all '90-'94 (and checking online they were used thru '98):
Image

-PENDING>Might be worth swapping 'for grins'.


Coil pack:
- Not sure where I read this might help. But the stock EJ20G used coil on plug (Cop) ignition (individual coils @ each spark plug hole), not the EJ22T's 'wasted spark' w/the 1 coil pack and 4 individual plug wires. The CoP were known to crack which would usually cause misfires when on boost, but could contribute to cold-start issues.

-Swapped in the Diamond coil version which is supposedly higher output?= No better


Other trouble-shooting:
I have evoscan which can connect to the Rob-tuned ECU. I need to revisit its settings, but might be some troubleshooting options in there.

I have tried 'priming' the fuel injectors by turning the key on/off a few times - no difference.



NOTES:
"start runs on 3 cylinders "

_________________
Turbo Subies:
'87 GL-10 Turbo 4WD Wagon (pre-Loyale) - SOLD
'90 BJ, EJ22T/DOHC and 5-speed swap - SOLD
'04 FXT, Forged internals, VF39, STI TMIC, Cobb AP- SOLD
'93 Legacy SS - 5-speed, '550' Rob Tune, +


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