Here are some pics i took to compare the hoses on the 2 turbos...
basicaly, the upper Coolant hose is about 70° off (the vf11 are pointing toward the left side, and the TD05 one is pointing the front), and the lower oil line is also 90° off . but i guess that i could put the oil line of the VF11 on the TD05. Also the pressure and wastegate "nipples" are not at the same place.. but that's no big deal.
there were more pics, but due to a battery issue, some of the pics were not recorded
I took a pic of the 2 turbo height... .but the picture didn't record because of the battery issue ... so cant tell about the overall lenght vs the exaust position of the two turbos.
I don't remember how it was . (i was in a little rush when i looked at them)
I think it's ok since BoostJunky and FrmRgz2Rchz runs TD05 in their legacy.
(talking about that... boostjunky didn't showed up here in a while ?!)
Hehe. I'm still around. Just don't post too much anymore . . . I'll be back once I start to mod this car again. I really need some injectors as I'm now maxxing out the IDCs at anything above 12.5psi. I think the injectors might be on their way out.
I concur. The turbo outlet does in fact clear the number 3 intake runner.
Wait, were we talking about the outlet or the inlet? I thought 91White-T was asking about the compressor inlet elbow. How close does it get to the runner (like, under vibration does it ever touch)?
Whatcha think you're gonna do about injectors? Another thing you might consider is a rising rate fuel pressure regulator instead; you have the Walbro pump to back it up.
"Just reading vrg3's convoluted, information-packed posts made me feel better all over again." -- subyluvr2212
In between the big move and the random problems with the car (ie: MAP sensor and intercooler hose), no to mention an audit my company's going through right now, I've been pretty busy. But I'm back:)
I was actually thinkin about going to a secondary injector. Split-sec makes a pretty sweet setup and I've heard good things about their products. I thought about going the RRFPR route, but my friend has a turbo vr6 that is quite finicky depending on temp variations (any change greater than 20 degrees necessitates an adjustment of the regulator).
Lemme take a quick look in the garage and comment about the inlet and outlet, just in case. I'll be back in a few.
I can't think of a simple way to implement it reliably off the top of my head... If all you wanted was a way to monitor pulse width (rather than duty cycle) you could do it with a little sample-and-hold circuit on the output of an integrator.
Or just buy a cheap oscilloscope. A Velleman HPS10 can be had brand new for like $150.
"Just reading vrg3's convoluted, information-packed posts made me feel better all over again." -- subyluvr2212
They mentioned that the only difference between that meter and others is that it is tapped into a single injector line. If that's the case, the voltage of that reading would be directly proportionally to the duty cycle. If it's like an A/F ratio off of the 02 sensor, it would be between 0 and 1V. I'd reccomend having a friend hold the volt meter and monitor it while you are driving. May be a little easier than doing it all yourself.
I think I'll try it tomorrow. Which injector be the best to monitor?
Andy Rose
1993 Subaru Legacy Sport Sedan
2003 Subaru Impreza WRX
2004 Subaru Impreza WRX STI
1999 Hyundai Accent
I'm not sure who you mean by "they;" are you referring to the line that says "Wiring is the same as the other gauges, except this unit also taps into one of your injector lines" on the web site?
The gauge is internally two completely separate gauges: an IDC meter and a lambda meter. You can't measure IDC using just a voltmeter. If you have a multimeter that can read out the duty cycle of a square wave that might work, though.
As far as I know, it wouldn't matter which injector you measure. They all get the same pulse widths.
"Just reading vrg3's convoluted, information-packed posts made me feel better all over again." -- subyluvr2212
everything can be made to fit with the TD05. I did it to andys car. Took about 15hrs including time to burn one of the bolts off and rerouting all the hoses and such. Not hard, just time consuming.
here in quebec city, it's called "Turbo-Expert", they specialise in rebuilding/upgrading turbos for cars / trucks / etc...
there is probably one in you area, since there is a lot of turbos in diesel trucks.. they might be able to help you. If not, just tell me and we'll see if we can't do something.
To diagnose the Wastegate actuator problem, we forced the wastegate to stay closed with metal wire (Be carefull and watch your boost closely to prevent overboost at 25psi !!!!! ). With wire, no problem reaching 19psi (on his STI V2 engine).. without wire, only 12psi was reached... no leaks in the hoses..
So, thats not a specific TD05H wastegate right?? Just a different one made to custom fit the your TD05? Thing Is I bought a 1995 STi TD05H 16G and It came without the wastegate so I had to find one. I ended up buying one off ebay from a Eagle Talon TD05H. But the exhaust housing is different, so chances are I'm gonna have to modify the wastgate wire, to match the Subaru exhaust housing. This shouldn't be too hard right?
Mark,
1991 Turbo Sedan, Aspen White 5MT, Sold RIP
1994 Turbo Sedan, Crimson Pearl 5MT, from British Columbia-no rust!
i am just in the process of putting a wrx turbo on my car it reads tdo4L whats up with that. i cant wait to drive the car. i had to clock the turbo so it will work with my set up, what u think will happen. i push my factory turbo really hard so i think it will work perfect on my set up.
does anyone no where i can get a rubber 90 degre elbow that will work perfect on this turbo.
they might be able to help you. If not, just tell me and we'll see if we can't do something.