livestrong14 wrote:Thanks for the replies guys! So the general consensus is going with a GC8 spec kit and making it fit? As apposed to going with a 02+ WRX kit?
Thanks again! You guys rock!
Yeah...I'd say that's the way to go...
I installed a WRX kit on a WRX, and it was a total bitch to fit on the car it was intended for. The bumpers mount differently on the GD cars, etc.
Honestly, I'd just say find a core that works, and then get a pipe builder kit from Columbia River Mandrel and go from there.
Nick
1987 Audi 4000CS quattro...soon to be 20VT
1994 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 CTD, #11 plate, 30 psi, Scotty II intake, 4" exhaust
BXSS wrote:SubaruNation is going to post the pics for me.
They will show the ebay GC8/GF8 FMIC kit with 31"x 12"x 3" (about 26"x 12"x 3" core) intercooler mounted on the SS with ej22t, then the same FMIC kit on the EJ20g.
To get this FMIC to fit on a SS/ej22t 1 pipe had to be redone, while the other 3 were able to be used with slight mods. The pipes exit/re-enter the engine compartment via a 3" hole (My buddy has big holesaws!) behind each headlight.
We reworked all of the pipes (4 solid pipes 6 connectors used in the whole system) & relocated the battery to the trunk to get a nice fit on the EJ20G, but I could have gotten away with a new coolant tank.
Note: The EJ20G pics were taken the day after we swapped that engine in & redid the pipes (Measuring/cutting & TIGing Aluminum Tubes together + swapping a motor = A LONG DAY!), so the FPR & Coil pack brackets had not been made yet, but you can see the custom coolant tank bracket that allowed space for the I/C tubing.
All of the pics were taken before I had a chance to sand & polish the tubes so they are not their prettiest form.
I notched the bumper beam to create a pocket for the FMIC to fit behind. It would have been easier to just chop the center section of the beam off all-together, but there is still alot of beam to cushion the IC core from morons who can't parallel park the way I did it.
If I had to do this over again I would have mounted this the way my buddy wanted to with the inlet/outlet on the top of the IC core (an easy 2.5-3' less tubing) instead of going for the more bolt-in way we mounted it.
Overall I'm happy with the kit & to my surprise did not notice any additional lag when used with the VF11 on the ej22t - & I was looking for / expecting lag.
It responded very well with the EJ20G/TD04 set-up, & is still being used with the 16G.
Here is the text for the above pics.
Note the 1st "hot" tube coming off the turbo is supposed to go through airbox inlet, but since my airbox is still in use I had to re-route the tube some.
If you use a cone filter this FMIC KIT could go on a ej22t LSS much more easily.
First, a BIG THANK YOU to everyone who's posted in this topic. It's great to post in this topic because it helped me alot in doing my install and pushed me to take the jump into the FMIC funhouse . I know posting pics opens the door for criticism, please be gentle.
This is the CXRacing GC8 93-01 FMIC from Ebay, I only had to cut one pipe and it's the one that goes to the TB(where the long coupler is). I had to cut alot off the car but anything that left an open seam was welded closed. I also stitch welded most of the factory seams while I was in there, this is supposed to help stiffen things up, IDK. The base of the k&n air filter is a 5.5'' velocity stack which tapers to 3''(I wanted something different than a pod filter, this was actually cheaper too), the mug mod is spare 2.5'' IC piping used in conjunction with some A/C line I got from the junk yard. This setup works very well for me, and I have no problems with MAF readings even though it's so close to the filter(I attribute this to the velocity stack). This is the best intake I have made to date for the TLeg, and the turbo is VERY LOUD!!! Yes, that is a coke bottle for the coolant reservoir tank, it draws and expells just like the factory and the plastic holds up very well. I will fix this in the future but it's not at the top of the list as there is no functional problem.
Without further ado, for your viewing pleasure, I give you, my setup.
The one braided coolant hose is the only one left. this is to remind me of where I started oh so long ago(all show no go, Fast and Frustrated, learning period). Don't ask about the colored electric tape on the looms
98 Metro Hatch Daily Driver :)
91 SS EJ20G Engine/Tranny/Diff Swap Build Thread Here
"Your testes are close to your bottom but you still play with them all the time." Jeremy Clarkson
You guys make me so damn jealous! haha
I'm on the Rev stage 2 chip with supporting mods, right now I am focused on maintenance and suspension, then brakes, then standalone, and whatever the hell pleases my needs and works with my wallet after that point
Every single FMIC I see on a legacy and really a subaru for that matter requires cutting the bumper beam. I'm not one for sacrificing safety for a bit of performance so that's always worried me.
Exactly how does cutting that beam affect a frontal collision? There's got to be an intercooler out there than is not as tall to avoid cutting the beam. Besides, it looks like a lot of the fins aren't even in direct path of the airflow (which may or may not affect it, depending on the positive and negative or neutral pressure on each side of the intercooler) with the bumper skin still in the way.
I plan to do some researching when I get ready to do my FMIC install in the distant future to try to find a core that fills the lower hole in the bumper so nothing can be seen but fins and is short enough height wise to fit in with little modification. I'm also going to buy the instruments to test the pressure difference on each side to make sure it's affective.
I will paint mine black and hopefully in the end it will just look like a radiator to the untrained eye.
98 Metro Hatch Daily Driver :)
91 SS EJ20G Engine/Tranny/Diff Swap Build Thread Here
"Your testes are close to your bottom but you still play with them all the time." Jeremy Clarkson
alot of people use way to big of intercoolers.. you loose boost and get way more lag.. plus it doesn't really help unless your pushing 400+hp with a big turbo on a hot day.. the top mount is proven to only loose 2% over a front mount
Anything you do is really going to require some modification of the bumper beam. I had to notch my bumper beam. I agree that completely eliminating it wouldn't be my recommendation, but notching it a little bit should not sacrifice the car's safety.
snailslow wrote:alot of people use way to big of intercoolers.. you loose boost and get way more lag.. plus it doesn't really help unless your pushing 400+hp with a big turbo on a hot day.. the top mount is proven to only loose 2% over a front mount
When I go FMIC I will be pushing those numbers though. Not going to upgrade to a FMIC with this EJ20G, lol.
98 Metro Hatch Daily Driver :)
91 SS EJ20G Engine/Tranny/Diff Swap Build Thread Here
"Your testes are close to your bottom but you still play with them all the time." Jeremy Clarkson
Aren't JDM bumper beams considerably smaller? I've never heard of Japanese drivers spontaneously combusting in an accident.
However, I'm with Josh in that most front-mounts are oversized. If you could see the actual airflow through one of those huge cores with the in- and outlets at the same level, you'd realize why you don't need one.
93 legacy wagon L, 22T swapped (TW imitator) now with five forward speeds. (Gone, but never forgotten)
johndrivesabox wrote: Rally, my kyboard is brok, his has nohing o do wih h liquor.
It's good for peace of mind and looks(though mine is painted black). I still have plenty of response when the revs are 3k and higher. (vf39)
You have to drive and you and have to try if you want the win, you don't achieve anything if you just cruise around - Jari-Matti Latvala
Long live the forums! Down with FB!
. I know posting pics opens the door for criticism, please be gentle. 
