Im using stock EJ22T Head Gaskets. The pistons DO protrude from the block deck. About .012-.015in
These heads can be found on 97-99 Legacy 2.5GT and Outbacks also 98 2.5RS and Forrester
Disclaimer: My goal was not insane horsepower, but rather building an affordable, reliable, fun engine. Oh and I already had the Heads.
I used the 2.5 intake manifold and fuel rails, with SR20DET Purple injectors. According to the numbers these flow the same as the EJ22t injectors. And they seem to run fine.
In the pic: SR20DET, Stock Pase I 2.5, Stock EJ22t

The plugs for the SR20DET injectors are different. I just pulled the connectors out of the plugs, slid them on the pins in the injectors and filled it full of silicone. Kinda ghetto but effective.
Besides the injectors all other electronics were somewhat compatible with the NA manifold.
Alternativly, you could find some EJ20g(440cc) Injectors and rails. They bolt up perfectly and mate with the EJ25d fuel rails.
I did plug the center crankcase breather.(NOT the one connected to the PCV) As far as I can tell this was to equalize pressure between the crankcase and the heads. If you do not wish to do this you will need to tap a hole in each valve cover and put a in a 1/2in hose barb.
I modified the right head for the Coolant feed and the oil return. There were bosses for both of these so I just drilled tapped them. I used a 1/4 NPT to 1\2in Hose barb for the water and a 3/8 NPT to 5/8 hose barb for the oil.

There was an exsisting plug which can be seen as a bolt just above the water nipple. This in fact is a pluged oil galley. The turbo oil feed was gently bent to line up and the banjo bolted derectly to the existing hole.


The Turbo bracket had to be modified. I cut off the part that originally bolted to the head. This allowed clearance for the new position of the oil feed line. I also had to shim the bracket up with a few washers so that the hole that bolts to the block would line up. Alternatively, you could possibly find a bracket off of a WRX or EJ20g.

The left side head has a threaded hole in the same position that the right side coolant feed is located. This is infact part of the EGR and connected to the exhust port and should be plugged. Also the heater core return line had to be modified. This was done by cutting off the existing mounting holes and fabbing a bracket like this.

With the Timing belt installed the cam timing appeared to be off by about half a tooth.

TIP: For anyone who hasnt worked with the DOHC heads before. Install the cam pulleys BEFORE the valve covers. There is a spot on each cam that you can put a wrench on. This makes it infinetly easier to tighten the cam pulley bolts.

Now a pic of the finished product
For those interested in the cam timing of the NA heads compared to Turbo heads Here it is.
All units in degrees
Phase I 2.5
Intake: Open 6 BTDC
Intake: Close 50 ABDC
EXhuast: Open 54 BBDC & 30 BBDC
Exhuast: Close 10 ATDC
Legacy EJ20g
Intake: Open 3 BTDC
Intake: Close 55 ABDC
Exhuast: Open 55 BBDC
Exhuast: Close 11 ATDC
USDM WRX
Intake: Open 10 BTDC
Intake: Close 50 ABDC
Exhuast: Open 53 BBDC
Exhuast: Close 7 ATDC
Oh, and I did all the work myself
