The car is a 93 L AWD with 04 STi take-off suspension, and an SS rear swaybar I fit using lateral links from a 99 Impreza. In the rear I have intrax camber bolts set to max negative which supposedly provide an extra 2 degrees.
I knew the toe was messed up, and I went in with all the camber bolts set for max negative. Here are the results:
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Front camber
Before After
L R L R
-0.2 -1.3 -0.7 -0.8
Front caster
Before After
L R L R
3.7 3.5 3.8 2.9
Rear camber
Before After
L R L R
-1.2 -1.7 -1.2 -1.7
Rear toe is 0.05 deg out per side.
Not all that great, but I suppose it could be worse.
I was pretty disappointed that the left front would only go to -0.7 because we got the right up to -1.8. I guess I should run into a curb on that side too.
I don't know what's up with the front caster and why it went down so much on the left. It makes sense that there is less there, though, because my crossmember is slightly tweaked after that curb incident. I guess I could take a blowtorch, prybar, and hammer to it. I wish the Racecomp Engineering camber plates were less expensive.
As far as the rear goes, the difference in camber is most likely due to my ghetto hack job on the rear strut towers. I didn't want to touch the camber bolts to prevent slippage. You can also see that without the bolts I'd have positive camber.
Right now my plan to solve the rear camber problem is to get some plates milled/cnc'd that fit between the strut top and tower. They'll have a lip that fits in the center hole so the tops are located more securely and are hopefully even. I'll do the drawings myself in CAD and I think the lab at school has the machinery to do it. Otherwise It probably won't be too difficult to have a fabrication shop of some sort make them if I already have the plans.
In the meantime I might take out the rear left and file out the outer hole a bit more, which would give a little less negative camber.
On the other hand, since I had more negative camber on the right, maybe their machine isn't level.
. The only axle nut that is torqued and staked properly is the right rear, as that axle has never come out. The other three axle nuts have been removed and improperly torqued and staked. The front right is an original nut that has been staked three times, aka it's useless. I suppose I can try a new nut, but that doesn't take away the fact that this nut only started backing out after widening the track. So I'm assuming these axles are being stretched. If the axle nut doesn't give, one of the joints, or the stub in the diff will give.