hey their, im pretty new to subarus and i have a couple ques...their is a 91 bc legacy turbo for sale and i can pick it up for a grand but i saw some things on it that maybe if someone can answer for me. first off i noticed the crank pully was kinda wiggly and sqeekie... is that pretty bad or what is the cause and fix? another thing was oil was leaking from the left side of the engine by the turbo, i was guessing a valvecover oil leak or something but i wasnt too sure. And last the car has about 260k on the motor...what do i need to be watching out for with a motor with that many miles...im guessing the timing belt and head gasket has been replaced because it didnt seem like it ever over heated. im fimilair with toyotas and hondas, but not too familiar with boxer motors, as im trying to learn more about them and work on them.
thanks.
NEWB needs some advice!!!!
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Well the crank pully is moving in and out like when you tug it you can feel it move foward and back you have crank walk (bad!!!). The fix would be replacing all the crank bearings. Next Oil on the driver sided could be a few things oil return or feed leaking, or valve cover. If you want to be sure about the timing belt take one of the side covers off, the cover is split in three parts take one of the sides off and take a look at the belt that will be the true test to see if the belt has been replaced. Get your hands on a compression tester unplug the coil which has a harness on the back left side of the coil or just unplug all the wires, your compression should be between 142 - 171 psi look for a constant number all the way across. Next it has a lot of miles all kinds of high milage things can pop up like brakes, tranny, valve seals, and struts just high mile kinda stuff. Heres the good news this car will be alot of fun this would be my ideals on this car " boost her till she pops"!!!! then spend maybe a another 800-1000$ on a rebuild of the engine the turbo maybe a new clutch(doing the work yourself), and you will have one fun fun sports car!!!
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evolutionmovement
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Check that the pulley is tight! Someone tightening the pulley to spec (80ft/lbs) after doing a timing belt/water pump will cause it to most likely come off and possibly take the end of the crank with it(tighten to 110-120 ft/lbs).
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Besides what the guys have already posted:
If the crank pulley is "wiggly" as you put it, it could also mean the key in the crank keyway is partially or almost totally destroyed. If you do a search, someone on the Board was able to fix theirs IIRC but IF the keyway has been stripped and it cannot be fixed, then you're looking at installing another crankshaft, and if the engine has 260k on it, the least expensive solution is probably a used engine.
Regarding the oil leak, look under the engine to see how much and how long it has been leaking. A prolonged oil leak on the Legacy I bought softened the bushings on the lower control arms so they had to be replaced (the oil leak on my car went all the way back to the muffler!) And if the engine has been leaking oil a long time, it could be possible that the owner did not always keep the oil level where is should be, which in turn, means that the internals of the engine may not be in the best shape.
I'm just posting this from my personal experience.
As regards the timing belt, ask the owner if he/she knows anything about it or if there is any documentation on it being replaced. If they have owned the car for over 100,000 miles, they would usually know that it's been replaced. But the best way is to check it as waldo previoiusly mentioned.
And, welcome to Legacy Central!
*edited to change spelling*
If the crank pulley is "wiggly" as you put it, it could also mean the key in the crank keyway is partially or almost totally destroyed. If you do a search, someone on the Board was able to fix theirs IIRC but IF the keyway has been stripped and it cannot be fixed, then you're looking at installing another crankshaft, and if the engine has 260k on it, the least expensive solution is probably a used engine.
Regarding the oil leak, look under the engine to see how much and how long it has been leaking. A prolonged oil leak on the Legacy I bought softened the bushings on the lower control arms so they had to be replaced (the oil leak on my car went all the way back to the muffler!) And if the engine has been leaking oil a long time, it could be possible that the owner did not always keep the oil level where is should be, which in turn, means that the internals of the engine may not be in the best shape.
I'm just posting this from my personal experience.
As regards the timing belt, ask the owner if he/she knows anything about it or if there is any documentation on it being replaced. If they have owned the car for over 100,000 miles, they would usually know that it's been replaced. But the best way is to check it as waldo previoiusly mentioned.
And, welcome to Legacy Central!
*edited to change spelling*
Last edited by 93Leg-c on Sat Aug 26, 2006 2:37 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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entirelyturbo
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As Steve said, tighten the crank pulley bolt down to at least 110 ft-lbs of torque, or if you're a medium-sized individual with medium strength like me, just get it as tight as you can. It's a beefy bolt, I'm not even strong enough to break it.
If just the key in the crank is messed up, you can replace the key. It's $2.87 from the dealer. But if the little space in the crank is torn up from the pulley wobbling, then technically your engine is done. You can try to wedge something in the extra space to try and hold the key still, which some people have done with success, but it's just a band-aid. To properly fix it, you have to at least rebuild the engine with a different crank.
Oil leak? Well, the best you can do is double-check the oil level (car has to be sitting on level surface and should be cold, as in engine not running for 3 hours), and listen to the engine carefully as it's running to try to hear any strange noises.
If just the key in the crank is messed up, you can replace the key. It's $2.87 from the dealer. But if the little space in the crank is torn up from the pulley wobbling, then technically your engine is done. You can try to wedge something in the extra space to try and hold the key still, which some people have done with success, but it's just a band-aid. To properly fix it, you have to at least rebuild the engine with a different crank.
Oil leak? Well, the best you can do is double-check the oil level (car has to be sitting on level surface and should be cold, as in engine not running for 3 hours), and listen to the engine carefully as it's running to try to hear any strange noises.
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Subaru for Life
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Re: NEWB needs some advice!!!!
If it's wiggly and squeeking at the same time, it could just be that the two piece crank pulley might be separating. Tightening it more will not help, you'd have to replace the pulley. There are many replacement options, and not that expensive.yay wrote:... i noticed the crank pully was kinda wiggly and sqeekie... is that pretty bad or what is the cause and fix?
Have fun either way
hey thanks a lot guys ur inputs helped out a lot... im gonna go back and check it out and do a compression test...im thinking im going to pick this car up since winter is near and i am going to school for automotive so the engine would be a perfect project to be rebuilt in the near future and another thing is im really interested in the boxer motors and want to learn more about them considering i've dealt with the other usuall honda, toyota motors. thanks agian for the warm welcome... 
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irishsetter
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The crank pulley have a hard rubber lining meant for slipage. They also get dry rot and break causing squeeking and wiggly. Just plan on buying a new on. You should get a WRX pulley they are lighter and fit fine. A car with that many miles on it is going to need an over haul, but for now I would replace the pulley(very easy to do), replace all rubber hoses and belts then go from there.
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Subaru for Life
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The looks alone is definitely worth it. I'm not sure if he's still selling 'em. It's same as stock size, everything fits and work fine.Murphy wrote:since your talking about crank pulleys i thought id ask a question
how are Mr. Joshes pulleys? any complaints or problems with them? are they worth $80? will it work with the A/C and everything, do i have to make modifacations in anyway to run it?
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sammydafish
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For a grand, the car is probably worth it. The pully might not even be a problem. On most cars they look like they are wobly, and the squeaking could be any of the pullys or the belt istelf. If the pully i serperated (quite possable) any EJ subaru one will work, I've got a few or you culd get an aluminum one off ebay for $20.
Valve covers on these things always leak and they're easy to replace. Usualy just tightening the cover will stop the leak.
Any car with 260k on it will need many many things to be replaced as regualr maintinance. As cars go, Subarus luckily seem to fair pretty well at those kind of milages, save for rust, which is the one thing that usualy brings these cars down.
Just buy it, you'll like it, the engine alone is worth half the money to someone who wants to build a 500hp WRX. Even if it starts to fall apart on you, you can part it out and still break even, just buy it and have fun.
Valve covers on these things always leak and they're easy to replace. Usualy just tightening the cover will stop the leak.
Any car with 260k on it will need many many things to be replaced as regualr maintinance. As cars go, Subarus luckily seem to fair pretty well at those kind of milages, save for rust, which is the one thing that usualy brings these cars down.
Just buy it, you'll like it, the engine alone is worth half the money to someone who wants to build a 500hp WRX. Even if it starts to fall apart on you, you can part it out and still break even, just buy it and have fun.
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