Moderator: Moderators
I saved this girl from the wreckers. It was a long haul, but in the end am glad for doing it. I've posted like crazy on this place but you guys never knew how my car looked. Now that shes almost done (few things non body related), you guys can have a look 
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) I plan on putting a black painted mesh in there one day. Homeslice- heres the a better pic of the rear, sorry I don't have a direct shot from the rear.
Actually About a third of the time spent on the car was contemplating how to fix this, or shape that, or attach this thing . Sitting there thinking was a learning experice in its own. Yes I did weld abit and I do suck at it, but I only welded at key points inside the rear quarters since they are stress bearing. Most places I used auto body epoxy and stainless steel body screws. I did have a chance to ask around at first on what way to fix this girl up. I settled on glue and screws since its relatively within the skills of an average handyman I guess and also I heard from many that its better then welding, since your not creating many "hot spots" on the metal which scream I want to rust, in the conditions cars see here. Now maybe if your restoring a 68 shelby then you'd weld up panels nice and seamless, but I'm NOWHERE that good and I'd probobly melt and warp everything and screw the whole car up. Hence I chose glue and screws. In general I'd cut all the rust out, so that its all gone, none outside, none inside the panel. I'd lightly tap the edges of the panel in, to make a lip then cut a peice of new metal out, place glue on the lip, set the peice of metal in and screw it down. Then grind the screw heads down and use filler to fill up any inconsistencies. An don't waste money getting body metal from a store. Just go to an auto body place or dealership that does body work and ask if you can have their collision fenders, they chuck em anyways. These are great, their factory primed on the inside and are already acid dipped to resist corrosion. All you have to do is flatten them out and grind the external paint off since it'll crack and break off when you bend the metal to shape, leave the factory primed side though.
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