Best place to get timing belt & idler/tensioner
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Best place to get timing belt & idler/tensioner
One of the bearings under the timing cover is squeeking like mad. I figure I'll replace everything in there while I'm at it since going to be driving across the country in 2 weeks.
Is there a good place to get these parts other than the dealer?
Is there a good place to get these parts other than the dealer?
Re: Best place to get timing belt & idler/tensioner
Josh
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
Re: Best place to get timing belt & idler/tensioner
Heh most/all of the main online subaru part stores are just various Subaru dealers parts stores doing online discount sales.Legacy777 wrote:Online subaru dealer
<insert site here>
subarugenuineparts.com = Chaplin's Bellevue Subaru (WA)
subaruparts.com = Tacoma Subaru (WA)
subarupartsforyou.com = Dan Perkins Subaru (CT)
etc...
'11 WRX Limited
'94 SS | 3" TBE, 07 TMIC, TD05H-16G, Revtronix Stage 2, Walbro -- Sold
'94 TW | R.I.P.
Re: Best place to get timing belt & idler/tensioner
Yeah i think I'm going to just get everything from SGP, i like giving Jamie a hard time. I'm finding all the part numbers now. I'll post them up just to make sure i get everything.
Re: Best place to get timing belt & idler/tensioner
Timing belt
Front Cam seals
Front Crank seal
Valve cover seals
AC & Alternator belts
Timing belt cover pieces that the hillbilly mechanics broke
All that is going to run around 175.
Now at first I figured I'd just replace all 4 idler pulleys and sprockets, but that would be close to 300. So I think I may get it apart, see which one is bad, and get it locally.
I think I'm going to pull the engine, so I can replace the clutch at the same time and have plenty of space to mess with a timing belt for the first time. Do you think there are any other bits I should do while I'm at it?
Front Cam seals
Front Crank seal
Valve cover seals
AC & Alternator belts
Timing belt cover pieces that the hillbilly mechanics broke
All that is going to run around 175.
Now at first I figured I'd just replace all 4 idler pulleys and sprockets, but that would be close to 300. So I think I may get it apart, see which one is bad, and get it locally.
I think I'm going to pull the engine, so I can replace the clutch at the same time and have plenty of space to mess with a timing belt for the first time. Do you think there are any other bits I should do while I'm at it?
Re: Best place to get timing belt & idler/tensioner
If you're going to pull the motor and do the clutch, you may want to look at replacing the rear oil separator plate if it's plastic. I think only the 90-91 motors had the metal plate.
Josh
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
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- Location: Kalamazoo, MI
Re: Best place to get timing belt & idler/tensioner
If pulling the motor and doing the clutch you should also do the rear main seal and re-seal the oil pan or install a gasket, whichever you prefer. Also make sure that when you get the valve cover gaskets that you also get the grommets that go on the bolts. Now is also a good time to do water pump/thermostat.
Todd
2002 Legacy GT Wagon 2.5/5mt
1999 Legacy Outback Limited Wagon 2.5/4eat(wife)
1998 Forester S 2.5/4eat
1972 Buick Electra Limited 455/TH400
1988 Jeep Grand Wagoneer 360/TF727
2002 Legacy GT Wagon 2.5/5mt
1999 Legacy Outback Limited Wagon 2.5/4eat(wife)
1998 Forester S 2.5/4eat
1972 Buick Electra Limited 455/TH400
1988 Jeep Grand Wagoneer 360/TF727
Re: Best place to get timing belt & idler/tensioner
Ok, but only if you come up from Kzoo and help.
One thing I kinda want to do is replace the water pump with one compatible with the OEM oil cooler, but the more things I think of the more I worry about having it back up and running for a 2300mile drive on the 31st.
One thing I kinda want to do is replace the water pump with one compatible with the OEM oil cooler, but the more things I think of the more I worry about having it back up and running for a 2300mile drive on the 31st.
-
- First Gear
- Posts: 120
- Joined: Tue Sep 16, 2008 3:42 am
- Location: Kalamazoo, MI
Re: Best place to get timing belt & idler/tensioner
Where are you at? Your sig just says MI.
Todd
2002 Legacy GT Wagon 2.5/5mt
1999 Legacy Outback Limited Wagon 2.5/4eat(wife)
1998 Forester S 2.5/4eat
1972 Buick Electra Limited 455/TH400
1988 Jeep Grand Wagoneer 360/TF727
2002 Legacy GT Wagon 2.5/5mt
1999 Legacy Outback Limited Wagon 2.5/4eat(wife)
1998 Forester S 2.5/4eat
1972 Buick Electra Limited 455/TH400
1988 Jeep Grand Wagoneer 360/TF727
Re: Best place to get timing belt & idler/tensioner
Fixed. Most of my parts came today, so now I just need to track down an engine hoist to get this party started. Pulling engine is something I've done a bunch of times now. Its easy, once things get rolling if should be a fun weekend..........hopefully.
Re: Best place to get timing belt & idler/tensioner
Found the source of my timing squeek. The tensioner pulley. The bolt it rotates on to apply tensions was very rusty and squeeked when the pulley rotated.
Plus the tensioner seems pretty worn out. Its supposed to require over 100lbs to get it to budge right? Mine is going all the way down with using maybe 50lbs tops.
O and my easy piece of cake engine pull went all to shit just because of one downpipe nut getting stuck. I swear no matter what anti seize I use on the turbo-to-downpipe bolts, there is always one that is stuck. I ended up having to disconnect the passenger side axle, getting the engine as high as the downpipe would allow to get enough room to really bash on the nut.
Plus the tensioner seems pretty worn out. Its supposed to require over 100lbs to get it to budge right? Mine is going all the way down with using maybe 50lbs tops.
O and my easy piece of cake engine pull went all to shit just because of one downpipe nut getting stuck. I swear no matter what anti seize I use on the turbo-to-downpipe bolts, there is always one that is stuck. I ended up having to disconnect the passenger side axle, getting the engine as high as the downpipe would allow to get enough room to really bash on the nut.