Added another to the collection. (updates,SIDESWIPED!)

93forestpearl · Post by **93forestpearl** » Sat Apr 04, 2009 4:07 pm

Very nice. My next motor will have CP pistons and Pauter Machine rods.

PhyrraM · Post by **PhyrraM** » Sat Apr 04, 2009 7:33 pm

The balancer can be a lifesaver on our Subarus. I just pulled the motor out of my brother's '01 2.5RS to change the headgaskets and one head (blew sparkplug out). Pulling it was easy enough, but being able to rock the motor back made lining up the input shaft to the transmission a piece of cake.

According to the shop, the pistons had up to 9 thousand clearance to the cylinder wall. I didn't ask at this point if the pistons are undersize or the walls were worn. Greg @ Millenium said he normally uses CP and an updated 2.35 design w/rings and retainers is going to be about $500. He wants to cc the heads before actually ordering them.

I was going to run EJ20G WRX heads, but I picked up one of the EJ20K sets that Kierrna was selling. SO, I need to find out if EJ20Gs and EJ20Ks have the same chamber size. If they are different I need to hold on the machine work until I recieve the heads from Japan.

PhyrraM · Post by **PhyrraM** » Mon Apr 20, 2009 6:13 am

So, I get home Friday and run the car up on the ramps. I was planning on installing a Whiteline front sway bar and an underbrace. Get the creeper, peep under the car and see this:

At first, I thought it was oil and a possible blown VF11. Nope, it's water. And the coolant reservoir is low. Nothing in the oil, nothing on the ground, except for what is leaking from the exhaust. It started a bit rough at work when I went out for lunch earlier in the day, I shugged it off because it ran well after 10 seconds.

I'm figuring it's a head gasket.

Change of weekend plans.

Details coming, but I didn't open the A/C or the P/S. Kinda proud of that.

Need an Apexi Power F/C map for it now. Apexi's "base" map is WAY to aggressive for our California 91 octane.

Modified EJ22T harness:

Just before install:

Clutch master cylinder clearance:

Fkyx · Post by **Fkyx** » Mon Apr 20, 2009 6:46 am

I want your dual tip exhaust...

Fkyx · Post by **Fkyx** » Fri Apr 24, 2009 5:36 am

Just a couple of questions for you...

Did you keep your wideband O2 installed in this car? Were you running a narrowband O2 sensor alongside it? Or were you sending signals to the ECU from the wideband?

PhyrraM · Post by **PhyrraM** » Fri Apr 24, 2009 6:00 am

I did keep the PLX wideband installed. It has been installed almost a year now using the car as a daily driver. I have, however, moved it downstream to the end of the downpipe (catless) since the original post.

I am feeding the Power FC the similated narrowband output and usually have the PFC set to use it. You can set the Power FC to use it or not and set the A/F threshhold where it switches open/closed loop.

Fkyx · Post by **Fkyx** » Fri Apr 24, 2009 6:05 am

Do you know if the stock Legacy ECU will react adversely to the simulated narrowband output?

I don't really know how the PFC works -- whether it passes the signal on to the ECU or not...

PhyrraM · Post by **PhyrraM** » Fri Apr 24, 2009 6:19 am

The factory ECU should recieve the signal just fine. There are those that say it works-no problem, and there are those that say the similated signal reacts too slow. YMMV.

I say try it. If you don't like it, then you can always add in a stock narrowband later. While your waiting for your clutch, have a muffler shop put a second O2 bung in the downpipe. That way your ready, and if you don't use it.....no biggie, leave it capped.

The PFC completely replaces the factory ECU. So it doesn't pass anything, because there is nothing to pass it to.

Fkyx · Post by **Fkyx** » Fri Apr 24, 2009 6:25 am

PhyrraM wrote:The factory ECU should recieve the signal just fine. There are those that say it works-no problem, and there are those that say the similated signal reacts too slow. YMMV.

I say try it. If you don't like it, then you can always add in a stock narrowband later. While your waiting for your clutch, have a muffler shop put a second O2 bung in the downpipe. That way your ready, and if you don't use it.....no biggie, leave it capped.

The PFC completely replaces the factory ECU. So it doesn't pass anything, because there is nothing to pass it to.

Cool. Thanks a lot.

My current down pipe only has a single O2 bung, and it's down at the bottom of it... I'm not entirely sure just yet if a wideband is in my budget, although I know I WILL be adding one in the future. So we'll see. I have a feeling the car will be running again before I come to a decision.

There's a bung at the top of my uppipe, and there's a sensor installed but wasn't wired to anything... what's that for?

Clutch comes in Monday.

PhyrraM · Post by **PhyrraM** » Fri Apr 24, 2009 6:42 am

Stock uppipe?

I've never seen an O2 in an uppipe. Some EJ20Gs have a temp sensor in the bottom of the uppipe and some USDM WRXs have one in the top of the uppipe.

Fkyx · Post by **Fkyx** » Fri Apr 24, 2009 6:45 am

PhyrraM wrote:Stock uppipe?

I've never seen an O2 in an uppipe. Some EJ20Gs have a temp sensor in the bottom of the uppipe and some USDM WRXs have one in the top of the uppipe.

It's a turboXS uppipe... and apparently the bung is for an EGT sensor. Looks like you were right.

/end hijack

Thanks again for the help!

PhyrraM · Post by **PhyrraM** » Mon Apr 27, 2009 6:18 am

RallyCross!

OK, maybe a bit dramatic, but this is what I really enjoy doing and I never seem to be able to get out and do.

Car did absolutely wonderfully. For only having the motor in a week I would call it a trouble-free race day. I had the boost set to .75 KG/CM. Online convertors place that at about 10psi.

After each run of about 2mins and 10seconds, there was a decent sized cloud of smoke coming from under the hood. I was worried at first, but it would dissapate after about 30 seconds to a minute. It was either motor oil or power steering fluid dripping on the exhaust manifold and/or the uppipe. I'm guessing it is the P/S. there is no hint of the oil or smoke after street driving, even hard redline runs or freeway speeds. Also the oil is on the top of the block also, I think it would be unlikely to see so much motor oil on the top of the block. Niether oil seemed low, but I'm watching. Zero indication of anything permanent, anf the car was back to normal after the oil/fluid burnt off.

Second in Class!! A class of 11 in Street Mod 4WD. Not bad, considering there were some regulars out there, and guys in STIs, and guys on snow tires, and regular rallyXers in STIs on snowtires.

Got tons of vid of others, hoping somebody posts some pics of me. I'll be sure to post up a few when I find them.

PhyrraM · Post by **PhyrraM** » Tue Apr 28, 2009 6:50 am

Even though I posted this one in another thread, I gotta add it to my build diary. Something about this one just makes me smile.

PhyrraM · Post by **PhyrraM** » Sat May 02, 2009 2:50 am

Finally got a chance to tear down the EJ22T. I thought it must be a head gasket failure to put so much water in the exhaust. It might be, but after pulling the heads I'm not so sure.

The engine doesn't appear to have ever been opened. I'm almost positive that the shortblock has never been split and I'm pretty sure the heads have never been off. The heads are very hard to tell, however.

Either way, here's the pics. Let me know what you think. ~267,000 miles.

Untouched cover screws.

Fkyx · Post by **Fkyx** » Sat May 02, 2009 6:13 am

Looks a lot better than the inside of my engine! lol

PhyrraM · Post by **PhyrraM** » Wed May 06, 2009 12:40 am

After EXHAUSTIVE research and legwork, I decided that my engine builder's quote was inline with the work suggested. I orginally wanted to assemble the complete motor myself, but lacking the measurment tools needed to check diameters, bores and clearances I decided to let Greg assemble the shortblock. It would actually be more work for him to let me assemble it, because he would need to tear it down after his "test" assembly.

I placed my deposit so I can get him started on ordering hardparts and cleaning up my parts. Should be about 4 weeks to get the pistons and maybe 2 weeks to build the shortblock.

Can you tell I'm excited.

Need to get my EJ20K heads soon or I'm liable to just say f**k it, and throw on my EJ20G heads. Actually at my power level, I doubt I'll really "use" the EJ20K heads anyways.

Because this is the Pictures and Multimedia forum, and I really got nothing to go with this update:

Fkyx · Post by **Fkyx** » Wed May 06, 2009 12:57 am

Sweet! So pending you decisions made, how long before you drop the new build into a car?

PhyrraM · Post by **PhyrraM** » Wed May 06, 2009 3:58 am

Fkyx wrote:Sweet! So pending you decisions made, how long before you drop the new build into a car?

Well, let's see.

Decide if I want to detail the motor before install. If so, decide on a color scheme and order from overseas a proper EJ20G silicon hose kit. I like the wrinkle manifold treatment, but should I stick with STI red?

Look into replating/restoring the metal engine items and pipes to the factory "gold/green" chromate type of finish.

Decide on and purchase an oil pump. I'm thinking a basic 10mm pump, but shimmed for higher pressure because I have decide to retain the squirters. No AVCS, 8K+redline, or overly large bearing tolerances to neccisitate the 12mm pump.

Decide on and purchase injectors. Most likely USDM STI take-offs.

Decide if I want to rebuild my (supposed low mileage) TD05. If, so decide if I want to upgrade it. I do have a second core TD05 coming, so I will most likely leave it alone for intial start-up.

Decide on and purchase a proper clutch.

Find out if the twin scroll oil-pan is an upgrade or not (cornering forces). If it is, get one.

Put together a good set of factory exhaust heatshields. I should have at least one non-cracked set among all the parts I've collected. Clean them up a bit with some Brillo pads.

Decide upon a tuner. Nasioc loves Jon (John?) at HB Speed. My builder has been successful with Road/Race Engineering and Tuning Technologies. So, I don't know. Email dialogs will most likely get started this week.

SO....... Nov, 2012?

I'm shooting for the end of this summer, but we'll see.

AWD_addict · Post by **AWD_addict** » Wed May 06, 2009 5:16 am

Did you figure out where the coolant in your exhaust came from? If it wasn't the HG, did your turbo have a leak?

PhyrraM · Post by **PhyrraM** » Wed May 06, 2009 5:43 am

I'm not positive it was a headgasket, but I'm pretty sure it is. If you know what I mean.

You can see on one of the gaskets the coolant has stained the gasket. It doesn't *look* like it penitrated the fire ring, but it sure was awefully close. It's possible that under load or heat it opened up enough to let water into the cylinder. If you look at one of the pistons, you can see the carbon starting to flake off. I would take that as another indicator that water was in there.

By my count there are only a few points of entry for water to get in the exhaust. Throttlebody, IAC, cracked block or head, head gasket and turbo. Most of those would need severe corrosion to get water into the intake/exhaust tract. I saw no igns of abnormal corrosion.

I also found out that the stock EJ22T had been living with the occasional boost spike to 17ish PSI for the better part of a year. That could also account for a possible blown gasket.

Either way, this build was in the works before the motor took a dump. I had a "spare" EJ20G intended for the winestone Rallycross car. It was an easy choice to drop it in until the built motor was finished.

PhyrraM · Post by **PhyrraM** » Thu May 14, 2009 1:48 am

More prep for the eventual engine install.

255LPH high pressure Walbro.

I had a spare fuel pump assembly that came with a EJ20G swap. It turns out to be the exact same thing as a turbo Legacy with the exception of the low fuel sensor.

Walbro (on right) next to stock pump (left)

Ready for install. I used the '93 WRX "frame" with the Legacy float/low fuel assembly.

PhyrraM · Post by **PhyrraM** » Fri May 15, 2009 7:29 pm

Got the pump installed. I was planning on doing a write-up, but it's so straightforward that one doesn't seem needed.

I went with the GSS341, based on old posts here on LC. It fit perfect, with zero issues.

Based on numerous posts on different forums I read in my research, I was expecting a significant increase in fuel pump noise. In my case, that didn't happen. It's barely louder than stock and with the motor running I can't hear it at all.

I also changed the fuel filter because I have no idea how old it is. It's also just common sense during a fuel pump swap. What was completely suprising, to me at least, was the amount of sediment in the old filter. Pictures can say it better then words in this case.

n2x4 · Post by **n2x4** » Fri May 15, 2009 8:50 pm

When I pulled my spare Legacy Turbo fuel pump, I looked up the part number on the pump and saw that it referenced the JDM turbo cars.

Good build - you've got a knack for complete documentation!

Post by **Legacy777** » Sun May 17, 2009 5:18 am

Was that out of the filter in the engine bay or the filter bag on the pump suction?

dropdfocus · Post by **dropdfocus** » Sun May 17, 2009 12:00 pm

Looks to be from the gas tank not the engine bay. Nasty stuff!

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Added another to the collection. (updates,SIDESWIPED!)