legacycentral bbs

Ok, I just too the $13 plunge and purchased the Dynolicious app for my new iPhone (32gb 3G-S) based upon your results with using it. I also have one of the 1st Gen G-Tech modules as well, so I'll likely compare them both and see how it turns out. In the next week or so I'll take some runs with my '85 C-10 and the wife's '98 LGT & let you know what I came up with.

That's cool, I want to hear about how it works. I've got an ipod touch 2nd gen.

Finally found some time to change out the rear taillight panel that got scratched when I used to cheap bike carrier.

The "SUBARU" and "AWD Turbo" emblems are starting to wear, but they still look OK for now.




Interesting fact.....

Both the badges and the recesses on the rear panel can be carefully cleaned and re-painted for almost any effect your willing to try. I'm thinking blue (or white) lettering on a red background to match the early WRX (and my calipers) style. Even subtle backlighting is possible with some creativity.

Hmmmm... Very interesting!

So I've been having a problem lately where, on occasion, the motor falls flat on it's face. When this happens it will idle and maintain whatever speed I might be at, but it will not accept any throttle input without a severe lack of power almost like fuel cut.

I checked the most common items and all the service/tune-up parts without success. The main problem is that it happens so infrequently that it is hard to nail down. To top things off, my laptop has been on the fritz lately so I couldn't even datalog the PFC to help troubleshoot.

Well, luck was with me at the right moment yesterday. I happened to glance at the Commander while it was happening and I saw the coolant temp voltage up around 4 volts. ~1.5 volts is normal for a warmed up motor. 4 volts is the equivalent of about -10 celsius. It wasn't fuel cut, it was fuel dump! The ECU thought the motor was stone cold and was dumping fuel to compensate. So much fuel it must not have been igniting very well, or not at all.

On an EJ20G the temp sensors are located on the opposite side of the coolant crossover, sort of behind the turbo. I wasn't particularly looking forward to the job, but it turns out that if you pull the intake and all the close PCV lines you can just barely get a wrench and your hand down in there to make the swap.



I'll let you all know tomorrow if the problem is gone.

I started on page 8 of your thread, then 7, then 6, and the rest of the way down.
backwards, but after reading page 8, i wanted a litlle more so i checked out 7 and so on. very impressive, tons of pics, lots of great info, and just very interesting.

i'll be tuned in, cant wait to see the bags hooked up.

Really nothing else to report other than the milage.

I'm still working on the air compressor install for the Praxis.
The machine shop still has the shortblock.
My EJ20K heads are still inbound from Japan.
Had a line on some EDM headlights, but that's in stasis for now.

I am fighting a knock threshold that keeps lowering itself on the EJ20G. I keep pulling timing and even added a bit more fuel, but it keeps getting worse. I suspect the motor has a problem of some type because it's very audible, but barely registers on the knock sensor. I'll do some diagnostics later, but it's low on the priority list with a new motor coming together. If it goes Kaboom, I'll just have to drive the WRX for a while.....poor me.

I finally recieved my EJ20K heads. Straight from Japan!




Shim over bucket:


Needs a cleanup but no signs of damage:



Anybody know if these have the hollow intakes and/or the sodium filled exhausts?



I finally have all the "hard"parts for the motor. Only need to purchase replaceables, mainly pumps and gaskets.

Are those the same heads I have?

Not sure, the EJ20K is supposedly very close to the EJ20R Twin turbo heads.

I believe you have the EJ20H, which would be like the EJ20G HLA underbucket heads.

Yeah, the 20G heads have the metal cam gears but other than that they are very similar to the 20H heads & much more common to find.

PhyrraM wrote:

Really nothing else to report other than the milage.

I'm still working on the air compressor install for the Praxis.
The machine shop still has the shortblock.
My EJ20K heads are still inbound from Japan.
Had a line on some EDM headlights, but that's in stasis for now.

I am fighting a knock threshold that keeps lowering itself on the EJ20G. I keep pulling timing and even added a bit more fuel, but it keeps getting worse. I suspect the motor has a problem of some type because it's very audible, but barely registers on the knock sensor. I'll do some diagnostics later, but it's low on the priority list with a new motor coming together. If it goes Kaboom, I'll just have to drive the WRX for a while.....poor me.

LMFAO RIGHT NOW!!!

PhyrraM wrote:I'm really trying hard not to play big brother and tell you to keep the.................................

Well I hadnt seen this when I posted in you Brainstorming thread...

And those heads look strikingly similar to my ej25 heads. Only differences being that my combustion chambers are bigger, for a 2.5L and you have the turbo oil and coolant ports already.

And thank god you have Shim/Bucket heads... the Shimless Buckets are damn near impossible (or HELLA expensive) to replace and adjust.

Seriously though... just build the motor, dont bother with an STi swap.

Spencer, why do you think I cut myself short in your thread. We all have our moments. I was just trying to get a clear shot at my odometer.........................

I'm not seroiusly inverstigating swapping to a STI motor, but always gotta keep options open.

PhyrraM wrote: We all have our moments.

That we do!!

Made some time to work on the car.

I modified the brackets from the OEM air compressor to work with the Praxis compressor. I slightly modified the OEM airtank to see if it will work with the Praxis system. It should have enough volume, but we'll see.....




Considering a strange "lowered knock limit" on the EJ20G, I temporaily took it out of daily driver service. I'm going to take this time to fix the front nose that has been slightly damaged since I bought the car.

So I pulled the front fender to install the compressor. The factory brackets allowed me to mount it using all factory locations.




After it was installed, I pulled off the rest of the front to assess the damage.

Always great to see progress being made on this car! BTW, my SS is back up and running now, still needs a little body work but she drives again. And thanks for the new taillight haha.

Good to hear your car is back on the road.

I'l be hitting the junkyards soon to look for a straight core support and bumper beam. I'll try to keep an eye out ofr some '92 tails. Were you able to get some cash out of the SVX?

Wow, that must have been a decent hit. My bumper is bent down about 1/2 inch under the front of the marker lights from ramming huge snow balls pushed off by highway plows at high speed and I thought I could fix it, but there's not a sign of a damn thing being bent on the beam, the cover, or the chassis.

It was supposedly a truck tire tread in the road. It deployed the airbag, and on page 1 you can see he oilpan.

The SVX is actually turning into a project again... a guy on the SVX forums and I are transporting the good bits of my SVX into his, which is lacking a powertrain. Should be an interesting project, and I'm glad to be able to save one car out of the whole deal.

Any advice on sealing the taillights up once they're installed? The factory black rubber cement stuff rips out when you remove the old housing, and now when I wash my car my taillight fills with moisture.

What's being used by Subaru is black window trim adhesive. You can find it at most auto parts stores in strips or a squeeze tube.

sweet build!

jealous!

I know, I know.....It's been a while. Work has been terrible.

I finally made it out to the junkyard and picked up a core support. Tried to find a white car, but unless you live in Washington or the East coast you gotta take what you can get.


Started by cleaning and marking all the spotwelds.


Centerpunch


Spotweld cutter from Napa. If you've never done this before, get 2 cutters and a pack of extra saws. It takes a bit of practice to get it down, and the saws shear teeth when out of alignment.


Have at it!


If the saw starts walking on you, drill small pilot holes.


Try to saw through just one sheet of metal, leaving the second layer intact. The scond layer will have the spotweld still attatched to be ground down flush after the panel is removed.


If you've found all the spotwelds and you've cut them properly, the panel should come off with only a minimal amount of prying and a touch of jiggling/shifting.



Junkyard panel clamped up to test-fit.


I still have a little work to do before final welding, but it's breaktime for now.

Fenders and lights bolted up to check alignment before welding. The front edge of the hood was bent into a very shallow "u" or smile in the orginal incident so disregard the gaps above the headlights.

Looks good enough to start tacking the core support in. What do you think?

Looks good... De yellow your head lights though...