HappyFrog's 1992 Legacy Turbo

[Legacy777]

Those look really good! Looking forward to see how they look on the car.

[Danny-G]

Hmmmm two words on the mystery one. Is it your profile name?

[HappyFrog]

Nope. You're not gonna guess it, I'm just keeping it a secret as I know a couple of local guys following this thread

[HappyFrog]

All done and I'm really pleased with them! Can't wait to have them fitted.

[HappyFrog]

Picked up a set of 17" Speedline 2014. One was bend and dropped off for straightening on my way home. They will all be resprayed in another colour later. I believe they are made of magnesium alloy, but have no idea of weight yet.


Also, my brother picked up new wings for me earlier this month.


And finally my roger clark motorsport exhaust has arrived (no pics yet) so now I'm just waiting for all that damn snow to melt, so we can get started on the rust.

[Legacy777]

I like the Skassa Edition badge!

[HappyFrog]

It may be changed, more about that later.

Today it was time to get rid of this ridiculous shelf in the center console. Nothing stays there with just the slightest amount of acceleration, so out it goes.


Now I got room for either a 2-din HU or a 1-din HU and 3 gauges. I'm not a big fan of a-pillar gauges, so the gauges will be inserted here for now (when they arrive). If it turns out they are too far away from eyesight, they will go into the a-pillar.

[kimokalihi]

I had mine at the bottom of the radio cage without that plastic trim piece in there and it was too far to safely look at the gauges while driving. I would suggest either the steering column (integrated into the plastic cover), A pillar or some other fancy custom mounting location near the gauge cluster or steering wheel. I chose the steering column. Cut a couple holes in it to mount my gauges. I haven't finished it due to severe lack of all motivation after blowing my engine. But I will one of these days. Possibly soon.

[HappyFrog]

I'm only using them for montoring temperatures during trackdays and will hardly look at them for daily driving, so my only concern is that I will forget to look at them. I almost never look at the instrument cluster during a trackday, so they will still be out of sight. They do come with warning leds though, so I could mount them on top of the dashboard for starters. After all there is only something to see when they are peaking.

Might also have problems with MOT if I mount them on the steering column, but will have to check that. Could of course just remove them, MOT is only every other year.

[kimokalihi]

Oh I see. Mine are AFR and Boost so I'd like to keep a close eye on them especially while I'm trying to find the highest boost I can run safely.

[evolutionmovement]

Interesting that you don't have a flip door on that pocket like the US models. Do you get that stupid pocket on the dash to the left of the steering column that's just open and anything that's put in it just falls out of? I'm using that one to house the handle for my moveable grille block.

[HappyFrog]

Nope. there is a hidden room behind a door, but there is not enough space to store anything in there.

[SP-Boxer]

All done and I'm really pleased with them! Can't wait to have them fitted.

OMG I want those!
I'd like some for my 2.2 N/A as well!

Do you have the drawing/3D model of these badges? I really want to have some of those shiny badges.

[kimokalihi]

Can you get a picture of the badges on the car? Are they the same size as the original badges? I'm interested to see how they are being mounted and how they look.

[HappyFrog]

No pics of the badges fitted yet, the car is being prepared for respray so they are not going on for a few months. I can take a pic of the badges laying on the rear garnish next time I'm at my brothers place. They are the exact same size as the original badges and I will mount them with adhesive from 3M.

I do not have the drawings as I had them made by a machinist in the UK. Feel free to contact him and ask for prices or if he is willing to give up the CNC program, just tell him you are interested in the Subaru and Legacy badges. His name is Gavin Martin and his email is v8wgm@yahoo.com - really really helpful guy I would recommend him for any special badge job. He can change it to 2.2 without a doubt, he made mine from pics and dimensions I sent him.

- oh, and I will be monitoring boost and AFR aswell, but I will go back to Skassa if I need to have it fine tuned. You can plug in a laptop to my ecu and adjust it from there. The boost is controlled by an MBA, but I'd prefer him next to me monitoring the engine when messing with it, I've seen far too many dead engines by now. (will be monitoring oil temp/pressure, charge temp and water temp as well)

[HappyFrog]

Still stocking up on parts while waiting for spring to arrive.

Bought a couple of bonnet dampers earlier this week. I hate those, but the OE stick gets in the way all the time so I'm giving it a go.


Today I placed an order for a complete refurbish kit for 4 pot calipers. I got a set of 4 pots from my impreza that need a whole lot of attention. The pic is kindly stolen until my kit arrives, it also comes with brake pad retainers, bleed nipples and brake fluid. Everything is stainless steel.


And finally if everything goes as planned I'll order paint for the car by the end of the month

[kimokalihi]

You should definitely buy speedbleeder brake bleeding screws for all four brakes if you're doing the brakes. It makes a 2 man job a 1 man job. They're about $20 for 4 of them but it's soooo worth it. Not sure if you've heard of them but they have a little 1 way valve inside of them that when unscrewed a turn or so allows fluid to come out but no air to go back in. This allows you to loosen the bleeder and sit in the car and pump your brakes without worrying about sucking air back into the system. I used them on my gf's honda and it made the job super easy. I also bought them for my subaru but haven't bleed the brakes so they haven't been put on yet.

[HappyFrog]

Yup I know them, I like power/vacuum bleeders better though. You don't have to get in and out of the car, plus you only need one

[kimokalihi]

I have both. They were both a pain in the ass to use too so I've only used them once each. Maybe it was just me but I couldn't get the damn thing to seal right. And the vacuum one I had was garbage.

[Legacy777]

Where'd you get the 4-pot rebuild kit?

That's pretty nice!

Personally, I prefer the old fasion way over speedbleeders & vacuum bleeders. The speedbleeders & vacuum bleeders work ok if you do not have air in the system and you just want to get new fluid to the caliper, however if you have a system with air in it you need to have some pressure behind to force all the air to the caliper and bleeder screw. I've experienced this first hand.

[HappyFrog]

Well, we usually end up doing it the old way anyway. I'm always at my brothers place when working on any of the cars and since he is always there we do it together. We have talked about buying a quality power bleeder for quite some time as I agree with kimo that the cheap ones are rubbish and we do have a lot of cars in the near family, but we talk a lot about what we should do

I bought the kit from a private person off of scoobynet.com (UK site), but I know http://www.godspeedbrakes.co.uk/ sells the kit aswell (click on Reconditioned Calipers... the lower pic might look strangely familiar). Godspeed is not cheap, but he does have a lot of goodies, fitting kit for rear 2 pots or brembos, 335mm conversion kit for 4 pots, braided hoses, prodrive discs etc etc.

[evolutionmovement]

I use the one-man old fashioned way—vinyl tube fits snuggly on bleeder nipple and coils into a disposable jug (empty windshield washer fluid, for instance). When I need to get out to refill the master cylinder, I prop the brake pedal with a stick. Just keep the tubing submerged (coiled at the bottom of the jug). I put the jug near the door so I can see the fluid color change and air go through.

[SP-Boxer]

Sorry, for my late response. Thank you very much for sharing the e-mail of the CNC guy!
Did he do the anodising also, or was it done in Denmark?

[HappyFrog]

He anodised them for me, except the last one which he powder coated.

[HappyFrog]

Ouch, 3-4 years in a box did no good for these. Time to soak in diesel for a month or two.