legacycentral bbs

I've got roughly 6,000 miles until the "scheduled" timing belt replacement interval, but due to the fact I'm going to replacing the pullies I figured why not do everything all at once.

So here's all the stuff I'm planning to get. Feel free to let me know if I forgot anything.

new timing belt
new tensioner
front crank seal
front cam seals
rear pass. cam seal
oil pump o-ring
locktite screws on backing plate of oil pump

Is there a gasket on the back of the oil pump?

I had the water pump replaced at the 120k mi t-belt change so it should be good for another 60k.

Anything else??

thermostat and hoses maybe?

Nope, you have to use some Gasket Maker. You can see the orange stuff on the picture.


http://public.fotki.com/morgie/morgie/obs/prep_moteur/moteur_detail/1585830_img_large.html

Did the hoses & t-stat not too long ago, so they should be fine.

Thanks for the info on the oil pump. I'll have to get some of that crap.

You're straight. That's more than I did. I found the cam seals dry as a bone, so I left them alone. Probably shoulda done them anyway...

Replacing the tensioner is a very good idea. The old one probably isn't performing at 100%, and then you don't have to do any weird compression procedures...

You konw how to take the crank pulley off, so that's no problem. The only thing you will need to get beforehand is a steering wheel puller to get the crank sprocket off. As far as I'm concerned, that's the only reasonable way to get it off... I was able to remove the seals with a flathead screwdriver, but I was careful not to nick any seating surfaces...

Leaving the water pump alone will save you boocoos of time, but you might hafta remove the radiator to take the sprockets off...

And as for removing cam sprockets, I have heard to loosen the nuts while the timing belt is still on and tight... Same with putting them on, just put the belt on and tighten it and then you can put the nust back on...

That's pretty much it, I think...

!!

When i first tried to remove it... i was looking at it trying to figure out how to use the puller to remove that sprocket... then a friend pulled on it with is hands and it came right off quite easily !!

I did it the same way to remove it from my project ej22T : bare hands. It's not tight-fit, it's loose on the shaft. may be a little bit thight with the time, but should not be a big problem to remove.

Were you trying to say "beacoup de temps"? Sorry, that just stuck out.

Morgie, mine was on there good. VERY good! I tried prying it off with a screwdriver, and after no luck and afraid I'd damage the oil pump, I got the puller...

Brat, I don't have any idea what you said, I know more Balinese than French! I don't even know if I spelled "boocoos" right, I just meant a lot of time...

not too worried about the gear. if you lube the crankshaft up....it should come off. I've got a 3 jaw puller set anyway.

For the cam sprockets I've got impact guns but I'll probably try to loosen them with the belt still on.

cam sprokets are quite easy to remove with an impact gun. just hold the sproket with you hand, should be enought

When I did mine the crank pulley came right off by hand. The cam sprockets I had a friend hold a strap wrench on them while I used the breaker bar ( it worked but probably isn't the best way). The only real hard part of the job was getting the damn seals out. I had to drill into them, screw in self tapping screws, then pull them out. The crank seal was blown and the reason I did the job in the first place, even though when I got in there the timing belt was cracking and at least 1 tooth of the timing mark but the cam seals were bone dry. I replaced them anyways since I already had them and didn't want to have to get in there again any time soon. When I bought my seals from Subaru the parts guy sold me an o-ring style gasket too saying I would need it. Here's my question, is this for the right rear or the left front behind the bearing cap? I didn't know for sure, so I didn't use it. My pass. side valve cover is leaking pretty bad but it's all at the back (towards the firewall) dripping on my up-pipe. Could this actually be my rear cam seal? If so how hard is it to replace the rear cam seal on the pass. side?

humm, don't know, but here is some picture to help you

On this one it looks easy since the turbo is removed...
http://public.fotki.com/morgie/morgie/obs/prep_moteur/moteur_detail/1585821_img_large.html
(get originaly uploaded photo)



this is how it looks when everything is there..

http://public.fotki.com/morgie/morgie/obs/prep_moteur/moteur_detail/1585809_img.html


On this photo, i guess you can remove the cover with a bit of contorsionning, and after removing 2-3 hoses

http://public.fotki.com/morgie/morgie/obs/prep_moteur/moteur_detail/1585808_img.html

You're sure it's not just a cracked hose ? (oil hoses are made of metal, may be corroded.) ...


Good luck !

The O-ring is for the oil line assembly that comes off the cam in the passenger rear.

On the n/a cars it's simply a backing plate. extremely easy to change.

More then likely that is leaking as well as the grommets on the valve covers. I replaced the valve cover gaskets as well as the grommets. When pulling them off I'm pretty sure most if not all the leaks were coming from the grommets. Replace that O-ring, valve cover gaskets & grommets.

oups, forgot you had a NA ej22

my bad hehe

Ya the grommets look to be leaking too. Well at least I already have the o-ring. Thanks

Anyone know the part # for the o-ring that needs replaced on the oil pump? The diagram in the parts book isn't the best....so I want to make sure I'm getting the right thing. I may just call the dealer and ask them as well as order all the stuff.

if you mean the small o-ring between the pump and the block it should be 806919050.

Is that the o-ring that needs to be replaced when taking the pump off and resealing it?

Everyone always says there's an o-ring that needs to be replaced, and I had assumed it was between the pump and the backing plate...but I guess I'm wrong.

yes, the fsm only lists one o-ring

thanks thawa......now I just need to find which dealer will give me the best price....

I got all my parts from subaruparts.com.....really was surprised...got everything right away....they seem ok as long as they have the parts in stock....otherwise....I'd probably go some place else.

Two questions. Do I need a special tool or know how to remove the cam/crank seals? What about putting them back on?

I think I asked in another thread, but what type of sealant did any of you guys use on the back of the oil pump.....subaru uses the 3bond....according to what opie got done on his car....however they may have used that on the water pump....not sure.

You can tear the hell out of the old seals if you want. The only part to be careful of is scratching the crank/cam. I have a set of 90 degree needle nose that I stick between the seal and shaft then twisting the handle pulls the seal out. If the seal is close to the edge you can also stick a knife between the engine and the outside edge of the seal and pry it out.

Look at your old seals and realize the outer side of the seal does nothing, its more of the rear of the seal that keeps oil from the outer edge.

To put them back on I usually take a ratchet with a small hex bit installed. Dip the seal in oil then slide it on as far as you can go with your fingers. Then use the ratchet and a rubber mallet to slowly push the edge moving it in so it doesnt go crooked. Once I used a deep 1 inch drive 32mm socket to push it in.

I just did this last weekend so its fresh in my mind. I didnt do the oil pump so I cant help with that part.

Cool, thanks ciper.

I should go get some needle nose pliers like that.....excuse for more tools

I'll have to take a look at my sockets....may have something that will work.

The Subaru dealer told me to only use the supplied aluminum gasket with the water pump and no goopy stuff. No problems in 50k.

Steve

I'm about to do this on a car I just bought and am curious if you've done this yet?

I'm trying to get a list of stuff together, and so far I'm doing everything you are - I'm just curious if there is something else you may have come across while doing this job.

So far my list is:
Cam seals
front main seal
timing belt
timing belt tensioner
valve covers gasket and grometts
water pump
oil re-seal

Are there any idlers that may need replacing?

Thanks!

Rabin