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Ihad the same issue but found out my alternator drawing power. I unpluged it every morning till i was sick of it, changed it no more starting issues. not sure if it will fix yours.

rallyak wrote:Ihad the same issue but found out my alternator drawing power. I unpluged it every morning till i was sick of it, changed it no more starting issues. not sure if it will fix yours.

My alternator is not the problem, I rebuilt it while I had my engine out and I'm getting 14.2 volts with the car running so that tests out good.

The ECU is definitely 100% the problem in my case.

Subdydaddy, I'm glad you figured it out, and just for the heck of it, I am going to check out the main harness connectors near the battery.

my alternator was still charging fine and tested good but when it got colder than 20 degrees it would just turn over and flood out. the only way I found it was I forgot to plug it back in after changing t-belt. I'm sure mine was a isolated problem, Their is alot of input on this, and guys that have more knowlege than my self.

I think I am living in a parallel universe with a 3 year time lag

Got the same problem .....great information ......thanks everyone .

same problem. changed cts three times. intermittent. more frequent at lower temps. engine flooding. timing adjusts til engine pauses while cranking.( installed resister. may have done it incorrectly. gonna check it today -10 degrees.) changed cam sensor, crank sensor. warmed passenger compartment, no joy. warmed engine compartment, no joy. clicking next to ecu while cranking. better progress if you stop cranking and crank again. fire but no start. nonstop cranking produces negative results. sound of cranking changes and ffire is no longer possible. stop cranking and crank again, fires but no start. i installed resister parallel to the original circuit activated by a switch in the passenger compartment. i think juice is not going thru the resister it is going thru the cts (path of least resistance?) is a frozen cts providing a shortcut for the current around my resister?

did not help to disconnect cts. heated iac and it started. possible problem there. checking......

I second the electrical. Put a push button/ momentary switch hot to battery on starter. Bypass computer and electrical BS on pedals and beyond. If car starts when forced. Car started. Problem fixed?

i could be mistaken but i think the only thing that changes is the ignition switch. someone said they could push start which achieves the same as your suggestion. he got his started that way but mine is an automatic. i will try what you said tho. i will try anything at this point. the engine floods as soon as the key is turned. then the timing screws up, i can tell by the sound of the cranking. i had it suggested the injectors are bleeding down overnight.
seems like plugs are dry til first crank then extreme flood. foot to the floor does not help.(computer senses flood condition and cuts back injectors)
not sure if its related but i heated the idle air control valve and it started. a new valve 350 dollars. a new computer 250 dollars.
i have a junk 93 thought i might take the iac off and try that. maf is different so computer is probably different.
gonna take the iac off and clean it real good. but will try to force start as suggested

Have you checked the wiring between the CTS and ECU?

Any update with possible fixes? I have a 94 Legacy having the exact same problem. Has intermittent ignition problems and won't fire up unless I push start. The engine appears to become flooded but normalizes after a minute.

I have read all the replies to this post and I am seem to be in the right place. I just need some guidance as to what actually has worked to fix the problem and how to perform that task. Please any advice would be great.

Cheers

Welcome to the BBS.

I don't know if the original poster is on the BBS much any more, but hopefully others that have posted in the thread can chime in.

I'm having a similar problem. No spark from coil. Had following codes before and still ran fine.

12/12/2013
45, 31, 23, 32

45 - Pressure sensor and pressure exchange solenoid valve
23 - Air flow sensor
31 - Throttle sensor
32 - Oxygen sensor



Now it won't fire and I have replaced the coil pack twice and both ignitors in robs ignition conversion setup on the ej20g ecu patch harness. No dice. Tried a spare ej20g ecu. No spark. Rmoved the ecu and patch harness and ignition conversion and put the ignitor back to stock and tried again wiht the stock ej2t ecu. Won't start. Now it has code 49 which is another airflow sensor code for incorrect airflow sensor. And thats it for codes. Swaped he stock hitachi maf in and removd the jdm jecs one. Sti othin and the 49 code is still there. Unplugged the ecu and pugged it back in and wihout even trying to start the engine the code 49 is still there.

The fsm just says to replace the maf with the proper maf. No test procedures in case it IS the proper maf.

Have you verified you have power to the appropriate pins at the coil pack and igniter?

I did not check the ignitor but there is 12v on pin 2 of the coil pack. Its a pain in the ass because it broke down at my apartment and all my tools are at my moms house in her garage. I think I'm going to have to get it towed there and pull the tmic and intake manifold and tear the harness apart and redo it.

Well that sucks...

Just an FYI, the ignition components come in from the back side of the engine and are not part of the main engine harness, which will make redoing the harness more difficult

^^^ Taking the dashboard out isn't that difficult tho.

Quick update for you guys. Mine is still working fine. After reading what rallyak said I do remember changing my alternator. Not because i suspected it being the problem, but because I didn't want to sell my other Legacy with a brand new alternator.