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The fluid levels are good..I tightened the belt, didn't do anything, I loosened the belt, didn't do anything. I don't know..

Update:

I flushed the fluid again and tightened the belt some. It was fine again, then as soon as it got warm outside again it came back?

It seems to be fine when its cold out..when its warm it sucks. Any ideas?

there's no leak because the fluid is at the level its supposed to be.

Its the same thing roughly, I think.

The ball joints look good to me, I did smack a curb with the right wheel, had it looked at by a shop and was given an alignment by them. They said nothing was bent.

But if it was something with the rack..why would it go away with a P/S flush then come back?

I'm probably going to do a more thorough flush tomorrow..run a couple quarts through it of Dexron III, instead of off the shelf "Power Steering Fluid". Dunno if it'll make a difference.

I was having difficulty turning the wheel at certain times. Usually when going in a straight line for awhile, it wouldn't want to move from the centered position. Also, when making turns, I had to manually turn it back to position because it wouldn't return to center at all, just continue the way it...

Heh I just had the same problem happen to me 10 minutes ago. I'm pretty sure it must be an error in its construction, but it was working previously, then decided to not. Maybe something shorted somewhere.

For now I just put the input/output for the sensor together. May have to reset the ECU, though.

What fueling/injectors are you running? Are you really leaned out?

I read that the EJ22T gasket will fill in for the misplaced head coolant pockets. What kind of compression, compared to stock, would the EJ22T block and DOHC heads give?

Bump up compression? Then there's less boost to be had.

I've been sifting through posts for an hour and didn't find any answers, so here's my questions: Can I take a EJ22T shortblock, put Phase 1 DOHC Heads on, and a 1999 RS intake manifold? Will they bolt up? Using the EJ22T head gaskets, also. Someone said to me at one point that we can't use the DOHC ...

91legacy_sleeper wrote:Search.

For?

Or next are you going to post a picture of "use the search button newb"

What fits what then?

A good way is to get a different intake manifold. I think they all fit, right?

Could you link me to the pic? Having a hard time finding one..

There's a clip that looks like a hose clamp. Is that it? Its almost right up against the back of the hub. Or is it further forward?

I've got everything off but the axle nut (need to get a 32mm socket tomorrow), the ABS sensor (one easy bolt) and the hand brake cable from the rear driver's side wheel hub. I can't figure out how to remove it. Is there any trick? I'm removing the whole knuckle, carting it off to a dealership and ha...

Its not screeching yet. It only did when there was weight on it. Its been alright. When it starts to screech it'll be emergency time, but otherwise I'll replace it in a week.

Its almost so loud on the highway I can't drown it out..I definitely can't drown it out completely. Its a "whirr whirr whirr" noise from the driver's side rear wheel area. I have my ideas but I just want other oppinions for giggles. It gets louder at higher speeds, isn't really a grinding,...

I'm not sure what you're trying to say. The pressure solenoid can't control boost (since its not connected to anything) but if the pressure sensor is detecting overboost it can apply fuel cut. I'm just wondering if its possible for the pressure sensor to be malfunctioning, or if my boost gauge is ma...

My stock boost control is completely looped off to itself. The pressure solenoid is still connected, and my gauge is T'd off the intake there.

Yeah. I have no doubt from air density I'm overboosting. Its just that my boost gauge still says 6 psi. I'm wondering if anyone's ever had a pressure solenoid malfunction so it read higher than it was.

No, it feels like boost cut. I haven't made your scan tool yet so I can't connect it. In 4th or 5th gear when its cold, I can count 1, 2, 3 then it cuts. When its warmer it wont cut. All signs point to boost cut, but I'll see. I'm gonna put some teflon tape on the gauge fittings soon and it should n...

When I first installed my Saab IC and MBC, the gauge was reading correctly (as far as I know, it is Autometer) but lately something's been acting up. As soon as it got cold I was hitting boost cut but the gauge was only displaying 6 psi. I backed off the MBC a tiny bit and the gauge reads 5-6 psi bu...

Mine isn't that bad. If I hit the wipers, there seems to not be enough power to turn the wipers on, it just shuts everything off and the wipers don't move.

I don't think it matters that the ACC is still powered after the car shuts off. Its just a delay after I turn the key, so it should perform the same. When the power signal is cut, it tells the amp to shut off instead of waiting for the head unit to tell it to.

My amplifier stays on for about a second after the head unit turns off. This has nothing to do with my previous problem, it has something to do with the head unit telling the amp to shut off too late before it cuts off its own power, and the amp's soft shut down circuit taking too long. So the resul...