legacycentral bbs

Diagnosis of either of these problems is easy. Most times the CV joint is bad, the rubber boot (bellows) will be torn. That lets dirt in and they don't last long after that happens. Remember there are four to look at inboard and outboard on both sides of the car, although the outboard ones usually t...

Look for body corrosion, that's a bigger killer of older Subarus than anything else. Sometimes the low miles means the wife only took the car out to the market and put it away wet

I think you should take this one starting with the cheapest component. Take out the thermostat to eliminate the possibility that it is the culprit. If something else is wrong and you overheat, you can ruin a perfectly good thermostat right away so don't assume it is good. If still showing problems, ...

oops forgot about type K . that's higher temperature than the ones I use in my lab. in any case sensors with long leads or extensions should be cheap and easy to find. Just don't use speaker wire like some dolt did on a machine I fixed a few months back

Why are you going to change the compressor to R134 ? You'll pay more for the compressor, fittings won't fit, you'll have the line problems you speak of, and there is precious little chance that the lines for a newer model will fit right. Unless your condenser has a hole in it (not exactly a remote p...

most likely the instrument uses type T or type J thermocouples. These depend upon the current that flows between the junction of two dissimilar wires. You can add length to the sensors, at some small loss of accuracy. But, you will have to know the exact type of sensor (and thus wire), and get the p...

don't sweat the blue smoke unless it persists. Its just cleaning out the system. But do change the oil after driving it around a bit, all that cranking and flooding while mis-timed may dilute the oil (the gas gets by the rings and ends up in the crankcase).

When the brakes release the pads will still be in casual contact with the rotor, so you really won't be able to see squat, unless the pad or pads have worn noticeably thinner than the other side. It is much more likely that the slider pins are sticking or are dry (they should be greased at every ser...

yes test the voltages but also look for the possibility that the throttle itself is not returning to closed position. When its doing the 2k bit, try to manually close the throttle further. If that makes a change, the throttle body may be gummed up, or the cable or pedal assembly is farked. See if pu...

odds are its flooded and your plugs are fouled as well. remove the plugs and clean the oil and carbon off...the mis-timed treatment will foul them badly. Let the cylinders breathe a bit and remove the air filter to let extra gas flash off. if the plugs aren't like-new now would be the time for new o...

too late now, but on non-interference engines a simple check is to make sure you have proper compression when turning the engine over. Misalignment of the crank and cam will mean no or possibly very low compression only on all cylinders, same as a broken belt. I had the same problem on a BMW 2002 I ...