legacycentral bbs

Coolant temp sensor is a common failure point to cause that. Also, if you have the IAC vale off clean it with something. A brake or carb cleaner made from petroleum distillates is a good start.

Hey, spread the word. I was giving you a little crap. For four years I've hoped that pic would go viral in the Subaru community. It needs to be known......

There is nothing wrong with a 4eat if you do it right and make enough power. They are quite fun when you get there.


Otherwise, all stock 5mt's are subject to the same driver failure. Plenty of people rock them for a long time with 300+ whp. If you can't do that, take a look at your driving style.

kimokalihi wrote:Found a picture comparing the two. OEM on the left, aftermarket on the right.

That garage looks oddly familiar.

Josh, maybe you should tell them you want a life outside of work? lol Because I have all the time in the world to work on my car. Sounds like your negotiating skills could use some work..............................

Now I see why you did the monster (relatively) body kit and everything else. Drifting is all about the show. The purple trio is pretty sweet too.

Steve hit the nail on the head. Gear size and tooth profile is what limits the 5mt. There is not a real way around that.


PPG's in a 5mt, or a 6mt takes care of most situations. Or a built 4eat...

I wasn't saying it couldn't be done, but your graveyard of parts says why one should not unless they are going to an 8.8 or something equivalent. This does not include a discussion on why the Legacy rear suspension is not designed for RWD...

What Josh said. Otherwise, you are rolling the dice. An RRFPR works though.

Bump for man-sized injectors.

My 890's idled just fine.

Keep in mind that timing is also a major factor in your idle. If people can get 2000cc saturated injectrors to ide ok, you can get 800cc injectors to idle.

It is how they are built.

Making an auto RWD only would be tough, since the transfer clutch would need to be welded perfectly straight, which is difficult to do. Not worth the effort anyways. If you want RWD, buy a Mustang or Camaro. A T56 and proper rear diff make life easy.

Where are you sourcing your oil pressure from? My previous setup sourced pressure for the gauge from the turbo oil feed. With the .035" restrictor for the Garrett, I would have 85psi cold at 1500 rpm. How long was the engine at operating temp? It takes the oil twice and long to heat up, even wi...

It does leave some adhesive, but I am able to remove it. Goo-gone in a rag draped over it allows the fumes to loosen up the adhesive, without soaking the paint with the stuff.

Reworked all the fuel lines for the new Outback rails and 1600cc injectors. 80psi of air ensured nothing leaks. I also wrapped the power steering lines in fiberglass, and then the Aeroquip silicone end tape, which bonds to itself. It was a serious PTIA, but it should work out. I think I will wrap th...

I don't like it puts all the stress on three little spots in the strut tower. If you are going to use lift blocks, use proper ones from someone like SJR Lift. Then there is the whole suspension geometry thing. It's one thing if you know what you are getting into, and another like the people these gu...

Derek will be fabbing in an 8.8 in the next year or so, so he should be able to share the trials and tribulations. We don't expect the R160 to last very long with an LS2 and T56 in front of it...

From Derek's and my measurements, the 8.8 will work, but with a fair amount of fab work. The rear floor will most likely need to be boxed, crossmember modified, along with custom axles. The end result would be worth it, but not if you have to pay for it all to be done.

You can always rebuild the R180, and if you want to, increase the ramp angle for faster lock-up.

I would stay away from the cocktail. Subaru Extra S is the proper oil for these finicky transmissions.

^ I ran for years without it, and a much hotter engine bay to boot. Garrett turbo 2 inches from the hood.

You don't really gain anything by running a cone filter. If anything, you loose HP since the air you've drawn in is easily 50 degrees warmer than using the stock airbox.

^ I found one at a True Value, but saw them at Ace a couple days later. Finding the right copper washer took a few stops, however.


Anyways, problem solved. Thanks all.

Also, I just ordered some of this silicone tape, since I had to order a bunch of other fittings. Seems like it should make nice home-made heat shield.


http://www.aeroquip.cc/624-endtapesilic ... litem.aspx

They probably don't have much street racing in them since street racing isn't exciting enough to make whole movies about it.