legacycentral bbs

Ugh.

Well at least it's getting fixed...

Dave

I had it done about 2.5 years ago, to try and get rid of a miss that i couldn't seem to beat. It was a bit expensive, over $100, but the place that did it was genuinely honest about the benefits that they'd seen. It didn't get rid of the miss, but the engine did feel noticeably better afterwards. I'...

The stock Turbo seats are height adjustable, and i used to always have mine set to the lowest setting. The RS seats are taller, but interestingly enough, i had to move my CD-Changer from underneath the seat because it would no longer fit.

My stock seats were hammered though...

Dave

Such is life.

I'm sure that you'll probably pick up another one when the burden lightens a bit.

Dave

The Turbo Legacy and WRX share the same transmission design, which is also shared with the Twin-Turbo overseas models.

Your transmission is not this type, it's not even hydraulic, so unless you're replacing the transmission as well, it will not fit.

Dave

If you can get a coated, Stainless Steel one you will both retain the heat, get better flow and drop a lot of weight off the front of the car.

Then again, it's not cheap either.

Dave

My guess is that it's some hydraulic fluid that doesn't mind heat.

Stock mounts on any of the 1G cars should definitely be replaced, as they're at least 9 years old now.

Dave

Yeah...Interesting.

Josh is right though, there isn't one good picture in the whole bunch.

Dave

Agreed. I should have the same exact one as you do.

I got mine from a private party for $300, iirc.

Dave

He's in Oregon.

I purchased my clutch, pressure plate, engine/trans mounts and sti shifter stuff from him, and i've recommended him to a few other people as well. When my tranny goes, i'll tow it to him to have it fixed.

Dave

I concur, those are huge tires.

A 215/45 would probably be a nice fit.

Dave

I'll be damned.

If i didn't have the JC Sports rig i have now, i'd have to hook that up.

Dave

What he said.

Dave

A water injection system is what you want, so that you're injecting a liquid that can rapidly absorb the heat in the intake air, making room for more air.

Dave

Old RWD cars are fun. We were lucky enough to find our autocross car (84 RX-7 GSL-SE) with low miles (80k) and a decent interior, but we did have to pay 10X what you did for yours. It's like stepping back in time.

Dave

The RX should be a 3.7, you need 3.9. Unless you wanted to dig into the diff and change some stuff, keep looking.

LSDs actually tend to give a car more understeer, but a larger rear bar can balance that out. The traction benefits in all situations are greatly improved.

Dave

And to think, my home system is a mere dual 2.0GHz Xeon with 1GB RDRAM...i feel so pathetic

Dave

Geez, you guys post a lot...

Yeah, the CPV should probably be replaced... I'm almost certain that the inhibitor has something to do with the start inhibitor, where the clutch has to be pressed in in order to be able to start the car. I obviously don't have that connected, and i'd have to look in an FSM to find out if it could b...

I did that. I've got 35 (canister purge solenoid) and 51 (inhibitor switch).

That 35 is getting on my nerves, and i'm not sure what to do about the inhibitor switch.

Does it still reset the ecu, even if it pulls codes?

Dave

Case in point:

http://www.xmission.com/~dac/library/shifter.htm

Dave

boostjunkie: those three codes were there before the knock sensor replacement.

vrg3: i think you're probably right, maybe mine has a later ECU or some wierd thing that needs to be reset with the D-Mode connectors of SelectMonitor only.

I'll try the drive method.

Dave

I'd suspect the wires from the knock sensor, if there wasn't a MAF and Cannister Purge Solenoid code in there as well.

I don't know if my codes will reset with the "driving around method" because i never connected my neutral sensor. No harm in trying though, i suppose.

Dave

After pulling a Knock Sensor code, i replaced it with the new version. To my dismay, two attempts to reset the ECU and clear the codes have been unsuccessful. I've tried disconnecting the negative battery terminal for about 45 minutes, then the positive last night for 8 hours or so. Codes still came...

Hey Ogre, finally another poor Utahn

Any Checker Auto will have them, but your best bet might be from an online store.

Dave