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The factory up-pipe does not clear the Phase 2 SOHC heads. I'm not sure if any aftermarket ones do. PICK YOUR ENGINE MANAGEMENT FIRST. Then select heads and intake manifold to suit. The most common are 1)stock/EJ20G engine management w/ stock SOHC or EJ20G/EJ25D DOHC heads and mathing manifold and 2...

I also suspect the gauge.

Second would be the relief valve in the oil pump.

IIRC, the crank position sensor in the cam position sensor connectors are close to the exhaust at that point and might have been compromised or damaged when you change the downpipe.

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Check in this order....

Timing belt/cam timing
Fuel pressure
Cam position sensor
Crank position sensor
Ignitor

Those are the common ones for a no-start condition. TPS, IAC and ECT wil usually not effect starting, just effect how it runs/idles. Also check for any vacuum/intake tract leaks.

There are no other Subarus that interchange directly.

IIRC, there have been a few folks to have swapped to a USDM WRX one. Maybe a search on this forum will bring it up.

2005-2009 Legact GT/Spec.b/Outback XT
2008-2013 WRX (not STI)
2009-2012(?) Forester XT

Based on what I have read, and my limited experimenting, WRX knuckles are dimensionally the same as early Legacy knuckles. Outside of the ABS rings/sensors, they are compatible. Wide track is a combo of the control arms and struts (and inner tie rods, axles, and sway bar), and can be done with eithe...

They look like they could be the same with just different pintel caps.

Maybe they have been rebuilt at one time?

The helper springs are there to keep the main spring from "falling out" or rattling.

Few the chosen spring rate and travel, the main spring would 'get loose' under full extension, so the helper spring keeps it in place.

Pull style, as long as everything is still original.

Unless what I'm reading is wrong, or I'm reading it wrong, the sedan and wagon GD/GG use the same crossmember - so at least ONE of the control arm mounting points are the same. I'm pretty sure the width difference is in the control arms. Your friends camber change, with only a control arm swap, poin...

Yes. That's why you need to double check them after the switch is adjusted. If you can't find a sweet spot where everything jives, then the TPS is likely bad. Sometimes you can nudge the TPS to get the idle switch working and keep the voltages in spec..sometime you can't. That is all assuming the id...

If you checked continuity with the connector disconnected, then yes, that means the idle switch is either bad or not adjusted correctly. I would loosen the screws and, at idle, see if it will rotate and close the switch. If you can get the switch to close (have continuity), and with the TPS in the n...

Spencer, Those readings are close enough that I wouldn't automatically dismiss the TPS. The ECU is actually reading voltages and depending on the ECUs 5 volt reference those small differences in resistance could still provide the ECU with proper voltages. The next step is to A) check and adjust the ...

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3721/13281320313_e50dcdc740_o.jpg Disconnect the electrical connector from the TPS. You may wish to remove the TPS, but not really necessary. If you remove it you WILL need to adjust the idle switch. Using the above pic, identify all the pins. Double-check. Set your m...

While not the exact same symptoms, a bad (or slow responding) engine coolant temp sensor can lead to symptoms similar to a bad TPS or AFM.

That needs to be drilled perfectly in the center and drilled out almost all the way to the threads. That will relieve the pressure and allow the threads to turn again. I can tell you from experience that working in a hole - with hand tools - is not the best way to approach this problem. The safest w...

If you wish to verify, many multimeters have a duty cycle function. This can be used to monitor the wire that goes to the AWD solenoid (Duty cycle C?). The wiring diagram will show the wire color and position. The trans ECU is right above your left knee, so tapping the meter into the wires should be...

A stock crank is fine for any reasonable horsepower level. Newer 2.0 cranks have better coatings and cross drilling, BUT not for the power - For the RPMs. Hence why Subaru only "upgraded" the 2.0 cranks. Every OEM EJ crank is forged and all have basically the same ultimate strength. Stock ...

Decking the block changes can timing. It is usually not done on Subaru motors.

Edit: severe typos...

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Find Kimo's build thread. THAT is what you will want to use as a guide. The only hard issue is the TPS differences. You ECU needs a proper EJ22 or V1-2 EJ20G ('89-'96) TPS > which requires a EJ22/V1-V2 EJ20G ('89-96) throttlebody > which requires a spacer and a flip to bolt to the "EJ20K" ...

Nice job. Another alternative I have seen on industrial PC board repairs is to solder a small, insulated wire to each end of the trace, where there is usually a decently sized solder pad/component to use.

I don't have specs in front of me, but the phase 1 EJ25 rods, the phase 2 EJ25 non-turbo rods, and the phase 2 EJ25 turbo rods all have different lengths. Those pistons need rods the length of the phase 1 EJ25 rods. Those are usually 48mm journal rods, however custom rods can always be built. For mo...

It's hard to see in the pictures. Because of the way the cam actually rides on a film of oil, they might be OK. High spots need to be gently filed back down. Valleys can be left alone because they will fill with oil. This applies to both the cam and the journal. After there are no high spots, evalua...

.... stay with my RA/STi engine. ..... Cosworth forged pistons - $780 Another option is to have your builder spec custom pistons for your build. The price is likely a bit cheaper and you can specify your own compression ratio w/your own heads - .vs trying to work with a non-stock gasket thickness b...