legacycentral bbs

What are the symptoms? Most on this board eventually complain about a binding feeling in tight turns. It usually ends up being the duty solenoid to the clutchpack.

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The automatics in the first gen Legacy does not have a center differential. It has a clutch pack that engages the rear drive, controlled by the transmission ECU.

The scan gauge thing is weird. Do you have a wiring diagram to check and see if the OBD power is behind a relay or fuse or switch?

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Those all seem perfectly normal.

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Just remembered a problem a friend of mine had.... If there is a relay to turn on the ECU, check the voltage coming out of it. His was a Nissan Pathfinder, but I guess a very common problem with Nissans of the early 2000s was the ECU relay contacts would get corroded or pitted and would have a signi...

If you have a voltmeter, track the voltage through a start up. 1. key off 2. key on, no start. 3. cranking (if you can see) 4. Bad idle 5. revving 6. Good idle It shouldn't go lower than about 12 volts at any time the motor is off. It shouldn't go lower than about 13.5 volts any time the motor is ru...

Or the battery......

Check the constant hot wires to the ECU. Maybe it's having to relearn the fuel curve every startup. The idea that it gets better after an extended warmup leads me to think along these lines.

Yes, any deviation from the parts on the diff as built from Subaru will mean a new setup. I am going to assume that the master tech did a proper set up with your new retainers. I think your overthinking this at this time. Past failures and frustrations can make you do that. 1. Remove the retainer. O...

The advice about over tightening related to bearing load is not accurate. Once the retainer bottoms to the housing, the bearings are at the final preload, regardless of further tightening or not. The bearing preload is actually adjusted by the amount of shims, which positions the retainer slightly c...

Here is the difference in the lights: https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2522/4021184036_547d813d23_z.jpg And this is likely why the bottom sits out: https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3480/4019339977_045ec44d33_z.jpg The solution is to cut the "hook" off of the corner light. It's a tad looser wit...

I have also considered a Forester with twins, back in the day. The first, and insurmountable, problem with any '97-'08 Forester (and Impreza) was that for the first year or so - when the car seat are rear facing - the rear seats do not have enough depth. I had to move the drivers seat up to an uncom...

I'm not a typical customer for this type of thing, but you asked for feedback. I prefer the stock look. I would prefer that the hood use proper hinges at the rear (a modified hinge is OK as long is it is included) and factory latch at the front, including leveling bumpers. I would prefer that it use...

Based on the wiring diagrams, they are essentially a JDM wagon with North American spec glass, bumpers, lighting, gauge cluster, and engine/ECU calibration - all bolt on items if you notice. The unknown variable is the seatbelts. Do postals have the autobelts? Do postals have a japanese VIN or an In...

Not only is it normal, it's required to be there by the DOT.

It's for illuminating signs on the right side of the road, but still keeping glare out of the eyes of oncoming drivers on the left.

Actually, it's not as out of reach as one might think. Google "Arduino tutorial" and "Learning Arduino". TONS of info and help out there to be found. I have been playing with a $65 kit with my son that could likely do the job. The second gen Auto A/C controller has a large screen...

This is from Josh's gallery, but it shows the basics of what you are looking for in low beam mode. Look for a nice, sharp-as-possible, horizontal cut off. Any light "above" that horizontal line is shining directly in oncoming drivers eyes. The slight rise on the right side is for illuminat...

I will also vouch for the EDM lights. Well worth the $300 or so it cost to get them. Add another $50 or so for good, proper bulbs. EDM lights with good, proper, FILAMENT based bulbs are the best I have personally seen. I think I chose Sylvania XtraVision bulbs (supposedly the same as Silverstars but...

They do go bad. They run about $15-$20 on Rockauto.com. On these cars, I don't trust codes much. If you can read the ECU parameters, you can test by watching the reported engine temp. It should rise as the motor warms up. Check out this (http://www.vwrx.com/index.php?pg=selectmonitor) and this (http...

To me, it sounds more like the coolant temperature sensor - the one that feeds the computer, not the gauge.

Usually the need for a transmission is reduced or eliminated with an electric motor because most electric motors have 100% torque at zero RPM.

However, I'm guessing the desire to keep the AWD and ease of mounting contributed to the decision to keep it.

The two bolts for each coil and the VF8 indicate that this is NOT a '93-'96 Impreza WRX or Forester motor as indicated by the eBay title above. It is a '89-'93 Legacy RS 5-speed motor. The VF8 indicates it's from a manual trans car (VF10 would be an automatic) This motor uses the stub-rocker HLA set...

Assuming you've already checked the mechanical stuff (timing belt/vacuum leaks/etc) the first things to check are the throttle position sensor/idle switch adjustment and coolant temperature sensor. Those have the biggest effect on drivability. Also because of the age of these cars, many times distur...

Very quick update, unfortunately without pics. I have traced, and compared to the wiring diagram, every HVAC related wire in the dashboard harness (and only the dash, so far). The quick and dirty observation is that it may be possible to convert to the automatic A/C system with A) the proper hardwar...

The trick with these (and I'm sure others too) is that the crimp has two sections. A small section to crimp around the stripped part of the wire and a slightly larger section to crimp around the insulation as a minor strain relief. https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3892/14725933827_2af0fbc19a_o.jpg Tur...