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My spare legacy had crank pulley wobble, and it wouldn't accelerate like you're describing. I've been trying to diagnose the problem for a while, and I finally decided to pull the timing belt, and when I took off the pulley it revealed that the key mark on the pulley was shredded, so the pulley coul...

So what do you have for tools anyway? I know a guy that wanted to paint his van, so he bought all the right stuff, sand blaster, 60 gal. compressor, gun, sander, regulator, water seperator, grinder to cut out rust, and welder to patch the holes. He ended up doing a nice job, but with all he invested...

My legacy did the same thing when I had a CV shaft go bad. However, mine didn't shake til about 35 mph, and after that it would get worse. It felt like a flat, and the shifter and entire car would shake. I replaced it and it went away. Not sure why you'd see it the other way around, so possibly not ...

I painted my subaru over the summer for kicks and giggles. What I learned: There's more work involved than you realize. I have so many hours invested in sanding and prep. Shoot, even taping the car for paint can take a while. When it came to actually paint it seemed like it was over before it began....

Yah, the stereo's the stocker. I'll work on tracing down the ground. The ferrite cores don't seem too expensive, if a ground doesn't help, I'll look into those.

Not related to a subaru, but my mom's Chevy Tracker has bad engine noise through the stereo when it's on the AM band. To me, big deal, just listen to CD's or FM, but she needs her talk radio (gotta love moms). I don't know what I could do to fix the problem, bad ground? Any ideas would be appreciated.

GC is like 1993 to 2000 if I remember correctly.

Whiteline aftermarket front sway bars use the same part number between GC impreza and our legacy.

Front strut tower bars are the same too.

That's all I can think of off the top of my head. The impreza and legacy have a lot in common.

Soak it up in enough PB Blaster, unstake the nut well enough, and with a long enough breaker bar, it'll go. I've done two without any troubles.

Yah, GC impreza lower strut bars, or control arm braces whatever you want to call them fit the legacy. They go for pretty cheap on ebay.

I got it up on a rack at the goodyear place by my school, it's the axle I didn't replace. They wanted $225 to fix the axle. I said screw it. I'm bringing my tools up to school tomorrow and gonna do it myself. That should fix things

I have replaced one of the axles, yes. I did stake the nut, and it's been a few months now. I drove it around the parking lot a bit, but as soon as I get up to speed, the vibration gets bad.

vibration shimmy, would be more correct, but as much as the car shakes, it seems more than a vibration.
It seems like a transmission thing because it can go away while driving.

Front differential? It still drives fine, but it shakes pretty bad.

I jacked up each wheel and checked for play, everything looked fine. Even if my lugs were loose, why would the problem go away when I pushed the clutch in?

Alright, I got out of my first class and went out to the car to take a look at things. I inspected top mounts and nuts, everything was fine. Checked tie rod ends and ball joints, ok. Took it for a test ride around the parking lot, for as fast as I could go in the lot, everything was fine, but when I...

Alright guys, I was on my way to school today, and as I left the last stoplight to get into the parking lot, my car started to waddle side to side at about 20 mph. it would do it in 2nd through 5th. If I let off the gas, it would stop shaking. It's pretty bad, I've got all day up at school before I ...

For the most part, you'll have to swap stuff from other cars, but that's ok, cause most subaru stuff goes together great. As far as actual aftermarket for the Legacy goes: Actual STi pieces (such as topmounts and such) and Whiteline (they have swaybars, endlinks, lowering springs, anti lift kits, et...

Awesome writeup!

Yeah, tell us how it worked after a drive. Now I may want to put sti bits on.

Sound and look are all personal preference. If you just want to replace the factory muffler, you could use practically anything. Borla or Greddy wouldn't be a bad choice if you have money, heck, I'm just running a Summit turbo muffler (like $14.99). Depending what you want for looks, you could just ...

With a FWD legacy, you HAVE to use FWD rear struts. There is a difference between FWD and AWD struts. If your current struts are bad, I'd say just go with some new gr2's from tirerack.com You'll get rid of the sag you have now, and it will be stiffer.

My Ej22 NA 5speed FWD got around 33 on a trip to PA a few weeks ago. It was awesome.

when i had my 4EAT in even if i taped the gas quickly, even only to 1/4 thotle the power light would come on Well that debunks my theory. I wish I could get some more codes. Just nothing comes up when it sits at idle warmed up. It's just about impossible to drive around, it struggles in my driveway.

Yes, both cars run. Here are scantool results from the "bad" car: Warmed Up Idle readings- voltage 12.80v idle 675-700rpm temp fans kick on @ 203 degrees, off at 190.4 timing low at 18, high at 23, usually sits around 20 degrees BTDC Airflow 1.2 something volts, it fluctuates within the 1....

The paint has been on the car for a few months now, nothing's come off. The paint is super tough. Here's a link from a hotrodder site that tells you everything you'd want to know about the stuff. It was a useful resource. http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/John_Deere_Blitz_Black_paint check it ...

Looks great, we're just about twins.
What kind of cans did you use to spray?
Ever thought about shooting some Blitz Black on it?

Alright, I've been working on my winter beater. I purchased it with hesitation and acceleration issues and the hopes to fix them. I already have one flawless working subaru as my base for all my tests. I ran the Scantool between the two cars and got some different readings. I was hoping you guys cou...