legacycentral bbs

when I find my breaker bar I can try but I only have deep sockets so I don't know off hand if that's going to be as bad as trying to use the impact on the nut for the rear

What can I use to get the bolt out from the rear? impact wrench is too big for the rear bolts well at least on the nut side. Do you have a 1/2" u-joint of flex? Try putting the impact wrench on the bolt side and put a wrench on the nut side. Josh I have a wobble socket but not a u-joint for th...

Glad it was not me

Wonderful write up! I got a 2nd gen but it's pretty much the same.. However my brake line clip few off and I can't seem to find it right now..

What can I use to get the bolt out from the rear? impact wrench is too big for the rear bolts well at least on the nut side.

mine was not a paper gasket but I finally got it off like 2 hours later.. had to keep running inside to warm up.. 40F out with blowing wind made it chilly..

Doing this and new plug wires made my whole power band much smoother.

Quick question.. I got my gaskets however I'm having a hard time lifting the manifold up high enough to get the old gasket out.. right now I can only get it about 1/4" at least 2 inches would be good.

the injectors are stock

also I hear some type of air hissing sound.. hard to tell where but it's between the PS pump and the intake manifold and it only happens (audible) when lightly on throttle.

and when you say swap out do you mean take it out and look for leaks? I don't understand.

I did the test again.. 25 psi was the hold pressure when the engine was turned off (haynes says 30) after 5 min the pressure dropped to 14 psi

hhmm well cleaning the IAC did me some good.. stops that stupid funky idle from 0 to 1K then drops to 500 then back to 1K then it idles at 750. BUT I just checked the fuel pressure today (finally) I got around 31 psi idling and it went up as the throttle opened and pinching the fuel return caused it...

I guess the site here had issues yesterday right when i was about to post everything kept timing out.. but I wanted to say when the next morning came still same issues.. So I have the IAC here in front of me that I just cleaned.. I was looking in the haynes manual here and one thing I noticed they s...

Took it out and cleaned it but wont know for sure until the morning.

I'm guessing no MAF engine runs richer = higher engine temps?

I just took it out going to clean it but I don't have any high hopes.

date on the reman says 4/4/01

I just came back from pulling the MAF plug.. got all the normal stuff (CEL) so it idled a bit loppy so I decided to drive around the block ha a lady was nice enough to let me go in front of her and I went to give it gas and it did pretty much the same stuff that happens with the sensor plugged in.. ...

From all the searching on USMB I noticed that anyone that did have hesitation that it almost always picked up when it got around 2K I wonder why that is..

And PA is cold enough

heh I figured if you looked at the video would of seen it was a manual :) And Josh what you describe is pretty much what I'm dealing with it seems to get worst when it's colder.. For your location might not be as bad.. but last year when it reached into the low 40's and lower it was annoying.. If I ...

Car is a 95 and the CTS was replaced 6 weeks ago.. mater of fact I have the old sensor still sitting in the box that the new one came in.

here is a video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Chfwg3vu8eg

I have this rough running that only seems to happen more and more as the temp drops but here is the thing.. if you start the car up it will idle normal.. however say you need to leave quickly like a few seconds after you start it runs rough almost like the timing is pulled until you hit 2K OR.... if...

your ac uses a TXV and not an oriffice tube

Pissssssss.... that's the sound of my high pressure line leaking going to be fun trying to find the part number for that line that runs from the dryer to the evap core let's hope it's not made from Subaru gold... Damn.. from what it looks like those damn little pipes on subaru parts.com is $94 witho...

Serious? It can no longer dry the A/C system thats why they call it a filter/dryer it's job is to filter out and dry any moisture out of the system so the lines wont corrode.. R-134a and moisture make a very bad combo. And besides mine was only $20 if you think that's too high then I can't help you...

SubyFusion wrote:Thanks Thats how I did it. Do you really have to change the receiver/dryer? I never did and it work fine!.

I don't think I showed mine here but I think mine is factory....

should charge by ounces... pressure can be effecting by temp changes.

nice and cold

I'm done charging