legacycentral bbs

Hmm, ok. I must be mistaken.

In manual it is taking off in second gear to stop wheel-spin.

Centre punching the broken bolt, right in the centre, at the bottom of the water jacket is going to be difficult to say the least. Drilling the bolt out as far as possible does weaken it's grip on the threads but, it also makes it easier for the ezyout to spread the thin shell of threads, jambing th...

There's normally two hoses, one for the diff and one for the trans. Might pay to look for the other one and make sure it's there too.

Breather pipe. It's meant to have a short bit of rubber hose that ends up aiming downwards so water and dirt doesn't go up into it.

The driveshaft runs at about four times the speed of axles so it should be simple to tell which one of them it is.

Is it an auto or manual. Have you tried putting a stethoscope or screwdriver to the box while it's on the hoist and the vibration is happening?

Is the vibration effected by load?

The welded nut is definatly the best bet. Being down the bottom of a hole you are going to have trouble drilling right in the centre of a broken off bolt, an arc welding rod will be long enough to get down there though. As suggested, use a nut and weld in the centre of it. It will expand the bolt an...

Since it started to move it will probably have a bit of rust in there causing galling, that is, the rust particalys are jamming up. If you can get it to move you need to work it back and forwards to crush and hopefully work some lubrication into the rust. An ezyout won't let you work it back and for...

As far as I know, the solenoids don't get dirty like the IAC valves do. I'd doubt it will clean up.

You could check it electricaly as per the manula though before buying a new one. That's the recommended thing.

Yup. It has to be something.

As I'm always telling my boys, "perserverance always wins".

Good on you. I admire your perserverance!

Well the only other simple thing I can think of is to get the fuel pressure regulator tested. If that's ok, you could have something like one leaky injector running rich, causing one cylinder to be down on power, and at the same time making all the other injectors work overtime trying to keep the po...

This perhps... http://www.indysworld.com/80s/general/U ... ngDiag.htm

Ok, since we haven't been able to log data yet, lets try checking the timing isn't being retarded by knock. If it's a manual you can just go out and load up the motor in a high gear and see how it pulls, then, disconnect the knock sensor and drive it the same way as a minute ago and listen for knock...

Try cleaning it a Josh says. To help it work better you need to have it near the centre of it's travel at the ecu's programmed idle speed. If anyone has played with the butterfly adjusting screw, the idle bypass screw on the throttle body(if it has a screw), or the idle control valves solenoid on to...

If you take it to a trans specialist they should be able to put a pressure gauge on the hydraulics and tell you what condition it is in.

Throw a vacumm gauge on it and check the vacuum at idle. If the idle is eighteen inches of vacuum then the mechanical side of things are good. If t's sixteen then it's borderline and you can expect problems starting occassionaly, decreased performance and economy. Check all the small hoses. Check th...

The solenoid's vacumm pipe is meant to be coming from a port on the throttle body that is closed at idle, so it should not cause idling issues even if the solenoid was stuck open. The port only lets fumes into the motor when you have a bit of throttle on so that you don't get too richer mixture when...

Well if you can log data then it should be simple to tell if it's a sensor or a sticky IAC. At idle the IAC duty cycle should be around 45, if it is moving up higher without the revs going up then the valve is sticking probably. If the D.C is low, like 35 say, then there is some sensor telling the v...

It is connecting to the ecu electricaly. It is communicating enough to ask what model and get a reply, so the protocol is right and the signal is getting through. There is a programmer that comes on here sometimes that has been doing work on these things, he reckons that there is a problem with the ...

Yeah but it's not because it's the wrong manual, it's the wrong information no matter what car you have. I have copies of other genuine subaru manuals and they make the same mistake. Perhaps it was a translation problem.

I have been trying to figure why you aren't getting any data but I can't think of a reason. Even the wrong addresses should give some reading... bad figures but at least something. Your market number, the five, I don't know where that is but it shouldn't stop it getting anything. You could go into c...

Have you tried editing one of those 7232xx lists to your number 723252?

How about the 7032xx? Try changing that to your number too. It uses different addresses.

The idle control may be fine, there may be an air leak which could cause the no boost and the irregular idling. The problem with the O2 code too may not ne the sensor but something else that effects fuel mixture. Those codes are just an aid to diagnosis and quite often don't mean the indicated item ...

Crikey, that's a worry. I just checked another diagnostic manual and they also had the ohms readings back to front. That ignition learn then isn't a very accurate name for what ever it is. If it's also effecting the fuel maps then it's some internal calculation that's being used to decide when to re...