legacycentral bbs

Look here... http://cid-4ca3c3459aaa7f7f.skydrive.li ... ublic?uc=1 If you need to know how to actualy do the job there are some service manuals there for trans.

I'd still check the trouble codes... it's easy!

Ok, if you go here... http://cid-4ca3c3459aaa7f7f.skydrive.li ... ublic?uc=3 you can download a manual. Your car is the 4eat and the other one is 4eat-ii.

Yes hydraulic pressure puts the clutches on. It is not an increase in pressure that put it into AWD though. The pressure is always there and it forces the clutches to lock up, then to make them slip a tiny amount they pulse a solenoid that dumps pressure out of the clutch pack. If the solenoid, TCU,...

Ok, your choice. I just came back in to suggest that IF the codes were all clear, that the brake band in the tran can cause some strange shifting if it's not adjusted right. Not exactly as you have described... but that may be a matter of interpretation. Checking the adjustment of the band would be ...

First thing you should do is get the trouble codes out of the TCU.
None of those symptoms sound particuly like worn out clutches. They could easily be electrical.

The problem will be inside the tranny. The clutch pack gets full line pressure and if it isn't getting it nor is the rest of the trans as far as I know about the hydraulic circuits. I have overhauled a couple of these boxes by the way. The solenoid valve lets clutch pressure bleed away so the clutch...

Well there is something screwy going on here. You don't get that many codes from a normal problem that develops. You get a flashing light before you get anywhere that many sensors shit themselves! Have you checked ALL your earths? Do you have had a look inside the ecu for leaking capacitors? Do you ...

I'd suspect, (based on statistics) that it will be the alternator playing up. Bad earths or dirty connections can cause these symptoms but more often than not it is the alternator. Drive in to an auto-electricians and ask them to test your alternator and it should only be a twenty minute labour char...

Ha, that's quite a list! I'd clear those codes then go for a drive and recheck what is there. I suspect that some of those must be old codes. Either that or your ecu is dying.

It's always a good idea to lap the valves in. If they don't have to be done then it will only take a few minutes per valve to polish them up, you also get to change the seals and clean it all properly. If the valves were bad... well just as well you checked them. The bulb in the dash might be going ...

Also, the codes are not wiped when new ones come in, they accumulate. We fix the first problem, which is normaly the one with the lowest number, then we clear the codes and go for a drive and then we recheck for trouble codes and fix the next lowest numbered one and repeat the process till there are...

The codes stay until you have done some number of restarts, often about forty restarts. Some codes are the result of a fault and not the fault themselves. For instance, if there is a problem with your temperaturs gauge it might make the motor run rich thinking it was cold and the richness might make...

Ha, I sympathize there Mike, but if you think that is bad check out the guy getting impatient after nine hours in "Inlet". He want's people to rush out and inspect their "jecs mafs" and report back what they find, which is fair enough, but see the sarcasm when we weren't quick en...

No rush Bro. You are just getting ready to do some mods right? So what's the rush?. I'll have a look at the spare one in my shed for you... TOMORROW!

Do the two pedals share a pivot? Could that be moving/binding?

They have a diagnostic feature and you should be able to get trouble codes out of them. If you go to... http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=5 there is a section called "how to" which has an aircon section with fault finding and diagnostic code extracting. You might have to r...

Or here... http://pdftown.com/

There should be a manual here... http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... FSM_Scans/

The hill holder won't stall the motor in neutral though.

get a small pin punch and grind it into a tiny cold chisel. Dont make the angle too sharp. Get a small hammer and use the chisel to tap a little on the top side of the broken bolt in a leftwards direction, then give it a few taps at the bottom in a rightwards direction. Keep doing that for a few min...

It really depends on the circumstances. If the bolt broke off by being over-tightened, or while being tightened due to a faut in the bolt, then it often happens that the load has come off the threads and they will turn out with very little effort... perhaps even the fingers. If the bolt was too long...

That sounds like it is stuck in one gear,(presumably high since that is what you suggest it feels like if you try to move it in neutral.), then when you put it into another gear the box locks up because the two gears are both trying to turn the shafts at different speeds. Since it happened whilst si...

before you start heating or drilling you should try tapping it around with a small punch or chisel. Once the head has come off there might be no load on the threads and it might turn easily. I wouldn't advise heating it at all myself, that will make it tighter in the hole not looser... unless you he...

Sorry... I should have said... the headlights have power to them all the time the lights are on, then each beam is earthed to turn it on as needed. There is generaly a relay to turn the power on to the bulbs, then two other relays to earth the two beams to make them light up.

I think you'll find that the headlights have power to them all the time and they earth through relays when they are turned on. It's a pretty standard way of doing it these days. If that is the case then neither of those circuits will work. Better get a wiring diagram and see how the headlights are w...