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Oh Ok. A bit of confusion there. I thought you said you could reprogram any tcu/ecu. Fitting eeprom chips or piggy-back boards with eeprom on is fairly well documented though. I didn't think you could get the original eprom any more so had to use a board to addapt newer chips. I also understood that...

The pin-outs are different from year to year and from market to market. The sensors and actuators are different with year and market changes. The output speed from the ecu is the same whether it's connected to the car or not. The more sensors or actuators you are logging will slow down the data-logg...

If you just need the rom downloaded you should be able to connect the ecu up on a bench surely? If you try to plug all different ecus into a car that they are not made to go in, the sensors are not going to give the correct readings anyway so there is really no point trying it, you won't get anythin...

Sounds like it could all be wiring problems to me. The starter signal is meant to go from the starter to the ecu. It tells the ecu to impose artificial ignition timing and fuel settings because at cranking speeds the air flow meter and the cam/crank sensors don't put out accurate or dependable signa...

The knock sensor is concentric and it doesn't make any difference to it's operation which way the wire comes out other than it needs to be secure so the wire doesn't shake around and, not be too tight. Also, the sensor works on a piezo principle and does not earth or make a connection. It generates ...

Sounds to me like you fixed the original problem but burnt (or left disconnected), your duty "c" solenoid.

Sounds to me like the tcu is faulty. If the speed sensor code isn't set, and the fuse fixes the problem then it's wiring from the tcu or the tcu itself. You could pull the tcu out and check it doesn't have any obvious damage like, leaking capacitors, burnt resistors, cracked circuit board, blown(exp...

High numbers are rich, low numbers are lean. At idle and anything other than near wide open throttle the numbers should fluctuate either sode of .45 at a steady rate and several times a minute. At wide open throttle(or close to) the mixture should go rich and the numbers will be high and they will n...

Yup, I agree about taking the inner ends apart to change the outer boots.

The usual way to get an auto to handle more power is to machine the pistons in the clutch packs)or fit another piston), so you can slip an extra plate(well two really, one friction and one steel) in there. Modifying the valve bodies on these things shouldn't be necessary as far as I know... all the ...

The number two sensor is in the dash. In theory it should set a code if it's faulty....

If you are sure there are no codes and the fuse stops the bind then perhaps it's something simple like tyre diameter.

You are right about the way the fuse works and the implications... the tcu is causing the problem. The two speed sensors are what dictates the torque split mainly, the ratio is effected by being in first gear but generally it will be the speed sensors. If the first speed sensor is faulty it gives ro...

You need to take more careful notice of the symptoms. Start the motor from cold and listen under the bonnet. See if the noise is loud or quiet. Give the motor a tiny rev, perhaps to about 1500 revs and then let the throttle off again. Did it make the noise when you had the revs up? Did it make a noi...

If you just log ignition timing(as it actualy is as you drive), and knock correction(in degrees).... when the knock detection shows up it should only show for a fraction of a second before it starts to retard the ignition and the ignition timing should be retarded by the number of degrees the knock ...

Well if you are sure it's revs not load that's causing the knock, then you must have a worn motor. If certain revs cause the knock detection, regardless of load, then it will be piston or gudgeon knock causing it presumably. Have you listened for piston slap when cold and gudgeon knock when warm? So...

Well it takes air to rev a motor. The TPI should be adjusted as per the book, not cranked right around in any direction. They are quite critical. The IAC should be in the middle of it's travel at target idle speed. The neutral switch should be adjusted and operating correctly. If the IAC valve is re...

I think BSOD is trying to ascertain whether knock being detected is causing his timing to be retarded giving him flat spots. It seems pretty obvious that there is knocking, indeed there would be something wrong if there wasn't any knocking, the thing he needs to discover though is whether it's causi...

Labour depends on what model it is, how fast you are, how good a condition the car is in and how good a job you want to make of it. I'd quote between ten and twelve hours to do the gaskets and valve grind depending on whether it had a turbo or not and what condition the car was in. People will tell ...

Hmm. Load is calculated as revs/air-flow, or, air-flow/revs... I can't remember which. So those figures in the columns won't be in chronological sequence. For any particular rev there will be a different load depending on how wide the throttle is and since nobody eases the throttle on so precisely t...

Gudgeon knock? The knock detedtion figure is the number of instances of knock right? And the knock retard is the number of degrees the timing is being retarded by, right? It seems a bit strange it's go knock correction sometimes even when there is nothing showing in the knock detection in similar po...

iMan, this is turning into a career isn't it?

Have you checked the bottom hose isn't soft and sucking shut with revs?

Are you sure the water circulates through the heater properly? That is, with a full flow?

Is this an auto? They can speed up the idle and run the fans if the auto is getting hot.

The low power and the trans problem will be two seperate things. If the low power started after refueling then you may have got some water in the fuel or you may have stirred up water that had condensed in the fuel tank while it was sitting. That wouldn't really fit will with running better at highe...

There are some good articles here.... http://endwrench.com/main.php?smPID=PHP ... ticles.php

There are a couple about the cam signals. Can't remember if they are in emmissions or engine mechanlcal

Yeah, compression problems nearly always show up at idle.

You only really need the glass to look at the circuit board's circuits for breaks and for dry solder joints. The other things are normally obvious. I was just thinking though(while standing in the hot sun breaking a tractor in half), could it be the bumps on the back of the cam sprocket are damaged ...