legacycentral bbs

Hmm. Here's a cut and paste I find myself posting quite often..... If you are getting elusive, varying, intermittent codes, or no codes at all, and the car is a few years old.... Pull the ecu and have a look inside. Look for blown transistors(they can explode a piece out of the side of them), burnt ...

Hell, I can't even pronounce that one.... I give up!

Ha, you put a fuel hose in a bottle and turn the key. There is some specific figure about how much per minute but as long as the fuel comes out as a full diameter of the hose and with a bit of force it will probably be Ok. Have you checked for codes yet? If you have a spare MAF meter you should try ...

AnErobic, anErobic... must learn to spell!

The ignition is wasted spark right? So it would miss two sparks if it was missing one. That tends to suggest it won't be spark, but how about fitting a timing light and checking for spark, or pull the lead and listen. Perhaps one spark is shorting, perhaps inside the coil even. Just to be quite clea...

That might be a good idea.

When you check fuel pumps you need to check the flow as well as the pressure. They can have enough pressure but it can die away when you have your foot down and the flow can't keep up. That would make it run lean.

You should check for trouble codes.

It sounds like a lean mixture causing a backfire out the inlet, which is why I reckon ther will be aa hose leaking or off.... although it could also be cross firing, but not likely on one of these.

Do you have coil on plugs or wasted spark ignition?

It's better to use an anarobic sealer like loctite these days. The anarobic sealers don't harden unless they are clamped between metal surfaces and so the squeezed out stuff disolves into the oil and comes out with the first oil change. Silicon is diabolocal for getting into oilways and causing seri...

Those compressions look too low and the variation is a bit much probably. That being said, it's probably not the problem.

Have you checked all the vacumm hoses?

You can check the exhaust for blockage using the vacumm gauge too, no need to disconnect the pipe.

Recommended action here is a tune-up, check all the vacumm hoses and pipes, then check fuel pressure AND flow and engine vacumm. Checking the engine vacumm should include a check for a blocked cat.

Then you start suspecting and checking sensors.

Yeah ok guys, I concede that volumetric efficiency was a bad choice of words. I meant overall efficiency more. Thermal efficiency is to do with pressure which isn't just compresion ratio in this case and my point was that too much compression pressure will cause heat in the pistons. My comments were...

When the thermal efficiency goes down it's because the heat is going into the motor... the pistons in particular... which softens the rings.

When you raise the compression the thermal efficiency goes down. When you raise the compression so much you have to back off the advance then the volumetric efficiency goes down. When you lessen the combustion chamber size you get less air/fuel mix in there. It's been proven to be best to have as la...

I wonder how long the rings and bearings are going to last.

Whow dude, it sounds like you need a workshop manual first. Get that and have a read, then start working on your car. There are lots of manuals here... http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/ and here... http://pdftown.com/ Seriously, you are going about the job the wron...

If none of those keys looked like yours then the instructions in page-one and page-two here may be the ones.... http://cid-4ca3c3459aaa7f7f.skydrive.li ... ublic?uc=2

High tension jumping is the obvious guess but then you should get some code, maybe from the O2 sensor or the idle not being able to keep within range, something like that. Are you sure all your multi-pin plugs on the engine harness have their water-proofing seals? Could your paper aircleaner be gett...

Hi fellow N.Z.r have a look here... http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html

If it doesn't have your model get back to here and I'll find you some more.

Go here... http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... FSM_Scans/

Download 4EAT_performance_test.zip

Well the test for a torque converter is to put the brakes on hard so the car can't move then put it in gear and put the foot to the floor and record the revs. It makes the oil real hot real quick so you only want to do it for couple of seconds, just long enough for the revs to top out. If you do it ...

That would work on a subaru too. The subaru inner cvs come off the axle shaft with a circlip inside the inner cv. First you take the boot back a bit, then there is a wire clip holding the inner cv's inner hub into the cv"s outer housing. Take the wire clip out with a screwdriver and then the ax...

The first bit, the shuddering etc sounds like the motor. The drive problems could be motor or trans but you can't really test the tran without the motor being right. To test a torque converter is a fairly simple test, but the motor has to be in tune. It could also be clutches. Have you checked the t...

Well is you really mean shudder, not surge, it may be a missfire. Could be an electrical, a fuel, or a compression induced missfire. If you put a vacumm gauge on it, it will be low but fairly steady if you have a leak, it will perhaps follow a surging idle but still be mainly steady. If you have a m...

It sounds more like an engine problem than a transmission problem to me, but hey, I'm fifteen thousand miles away and I'm not even sure if that is your motor I'm hearing. Could be that other guy's... that one over there.

I'd suspect that the power to the injectors is intermittently getting lost. First thing to do though is to clear the old codes then go for a drive. Putting it into diagnostic mode is a quicker way to find intermittent problems although in this case it sounds like the problem will be easy to reproduc...