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If you read up a bit there are links to some manuals with the information you are looking for. They won't mention knock correction, but it should be minimum, about minus-five, and it should only last for two to four readings before the ecu gets the knocking under control again. I think I put up a li...

I have now. I wasn't looking for problems, but they are a bit more spread out now... Now that it's going properly, go for a few drives and log every condition and driving situation, give the logs meaningful names like drag start or big hill or cold start light cruising or whatever, and study them an...

Glad to hear that you got it fixed.. good work on the perseverance...


As I tell my sons..."perseverance always wins... giving in never does".

First step in any trouble diagnosis is to check that everything is in good tune, spec and condition... then you start looking for the fault... As for the models.. It's a nightmare.. we here in NZ get the same options as you guys, except in different years or models... sometimes earlier, sometimes la...

Oh, to clarify that earlier post about your log...
the TPi is controlling the engine in the right way. Despite your local models working in the opposite way, that one works correctly for that ecu..

Yes, and to sustain the load for a while without needing a long stretch of empty roau.. I live in the country so it's easy for me. I've worked in the middle of cities though and you have to get a bit tricky..hold up the traffic to get a bit of room ahead, and then drone off in second with the brakes...

That other skydrive is my old hotmail one and I can't access that any more, but here is a log called Burma Rd.. a local windy hill... it's of a 90 2 litre auto... https://skydrive.live.com/?cid=4ca3c3459aaa7f7f&id=4CA3C3459AAA7F7F%21114#cid=CAD6B9CF327651DD&id=CAD6B9CF327651DD%21106 See how ...

If you want to get good easily readable data you really need to go on a deliberate road test, on a quiet bit of road where you will experience all driving conditions, so full throttle right through the rev range, some idling and gentle but prolonged acceleration to see if O2 feedback is working, ign...

Also, some of your readings are not working rihght.. but if that knock correction is right, you have a problem with that.. the knock correction, if it's working, should only show upp for a second and then it should have got rid of the knock, and the reading should go back to zero.. That might be a b...

Kimo, in that last log, at line 14... that low reading from the TPI, that is meant to mean throttled off on your car right? Look at the air flow and IPW, they both go the wrong way. They would be good on my car, when the TPI reads a low voltage that's what I expect to see. On your car, it should be ...

If you want to reverse the OPERATION of that resistor, you need to swap 2 and 3.. the centre contact will start with it's contact at the reverse polarity then, and move in the right voltage direction... As you say though, the switch will then be a problem.. not unsurmountable... By the sound of it t...

You could get a Link ecu... pretty much the same or more work though...

"tutu" by the way is a local native expression for "play around"...

I don't know whether you've seen it but this is our local club...

http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php

The tutu boys in there are always swapping and flipping and what not. Me, I'm a mechanic and try to keep right out of all that... it's a nightmare..

And yes to the satisfaction... that is missing in so many people's lives... we need challenges.. to overcome...

Yes, the readings will go the opposite way then. There might be another problem to overcome though haha... I think from memory that they are on opposite sides of the throttle body, so when they get swapped you might have to re-time them as it were... or swap the shaft over in the butterfly, or flip ...

The resistance value is the same in them both, and the earth is at the opposite end to the power, with the reading in the middle on the slider. As long as you have the power going in at the end it shows diagrammatically(Pff, had to use a spellchecker on that one) in the manual, you should be right r...

There's a manual called "diagnostics", that I think will be what you need(josh might be able to confirm), and some other bits with diagnosis in their names you might like to read.... I'm in New Zealand and we mainly get the japanese market cars.. https://skydrive.live.com/?cid=4ca3c3459aaa...

If you drive along with the speed staying the same, even using the brakes if you need to, the air flow will stay the same and/but the fuel will change in time with the TPI.. If it's logged, to a spreadsheet, or graph I guess, you will see the small change easily... I always use spreadsheets... I thi...

Yes throttle position sensor and injector pulse width... you might log injected quantity per second..

"The fact that the ecu seems to be capable of band-aiding the situation makes it much harder to diagnose.". It's part adaptive learning and part bandaiding... I hadn't realised you'd modified it.. So to test if the TPI is being read, and correctly, try driving along at a pretty much steady...

Actually... forget that idea about the load being an indicator of the TPI position.. it isn't.

The load is calculated from air and revs.. me bad..

All the rest is true but !!

Yup, wel, "very light throttle"... the switch is easy to check... Lean mixture will give you similar symptoms... as will bad plug gap and a heap of other things.. If you can log your car, and have the manual, you should be able to deduce which parameter is not reading correctly... or, more...

You could swap the wires, and the TPI would then read the other way around, but what you need to know first is whether your ecu is expecting to see a rising or a falling voltage. The easiest way, if you aren't sure, is to drive the car and see if the load value goes up as you put your foot down on t...

Yup, there are two models, both opposite operating.. if you can log, you can see whether the "load" goes the right way..