legacycentral bbs

subyluvr2212 wrote:Just tighten them down as much as your muscles will allow you too. Those bolts are beefy, it'd be pretty hard to break them...

Not too good of an idead on the bolts that go into the block, it's aluminum and you could very well damage it.

I just tightened them down reasonably well.

MK

Not sure of the capacity, but normal ATF dexron fluid is the right thing to use.

MK

Damn, that would be nice, but i'll stick to my 45 cent gapping tool :O


MK

Hmmm, i like the idea of the color matching. I may have to look into it.

MK

Also, both of my bars appear to be exactly the same as the ones on procarparts, *except the front, in which the part that bolts to the strut tower is a full circle.

MK

I also went the cheap bar route. Got both the front and rear bars off ebay, 25.95 for the front, i *think* around 30 for the rear.

Both were stated in the auction for a 98rs, the front fit perfectly, while the rear bar needed minor adjustment.

MK

Have you tried removing anyhting yet? Trying to recall from memory.. i think there is a screw on the bottom, maybe two in back, and the plastic around the column also comes off (2 more screws i believe) Once the front cover is off it's easy to see what to do, you'll probably need a steering wheel pu...

legacy92ej22t wrote:my 92 turbo speedo goes to 140 mph,im pretty sure the n/a's are only 120 mph

I'm fairly certain they all go to 140.

Also, i have installed the gauges, picked em up off eBay. They look pretty good.. I'm still adjusting to them.


MK

People say that by having my Pod in the guard they think that it will soak in water and junk like that. What a load of rubbish is all I have to say, it is heading into winter here and it has been pouring down for the last few weeks and I have had absolutely no probs (except for traction :P). I agre...

Just replaced mine with ones from an 02 wrx.

I found the driver's side to be much more difficult than the passenger side (yeah, only two mounts on the engine, not including the rod up top).

I'm already planning to get the STI mounts, and it's probably worth it for you to go ahead and get them.

MK

I would agree w/ the above.

MK

Same problem here, though it is affecting drive too. So far i've lived with it, but i'd like to find out the problem too


MK

ata was an obvious word combination "at a" ... ..


MK

iirc something like an hour labor at a mechanic, the seals that usually go are the crank and cam seals, and i don't believe the seals are over $30 for the lot.

MK

Just replaced my stock mounts with a set of mounts from an 02 rex. There is definitely less engine movement during acceleration.


MK

What is the difference in the rods and pistons? I would think the pistons are larger... are the rods the same?

MK

Excellent, just picked up a 97 outback crank on ebay. So i will find out how much of a direct swap it is


MK

boostjunkie wrote:THe phase one DOHC crank is supposedly a direct drop in. It should net you around ~2.3-2.4L of displacement.

Do you know what models/years the phase one engine is in?

MK

vrg3 wrote:and shouldn't cost more than around $30-$40 US.

i'm sold.

MK

I switched over to full synthetic at around 135K miles, have around 165K now. No problems yet.

MK

vrg3 wrote:Nice...

We've all read this article, right? http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_728/article.html

Nice!

MK

georryan wrote:ah ok, that makes more sense. I was going to say... hehe
How significant of a change is it though? Is it that noticable? Is it worth doing??

-Ryan

Definitely worth doing, parts cost is sub $5, to me it's one of those simple do it because you can mods.

MK

holy shit

MK

Legacy777 wrote:woman......

+blonde + mustang.....


jeez, that was an accident waiting to happen.


MK

czo79 wrote: If you replace the stock radio with a aftermarket head unit, it will probably be 1 din, leaving a 1.5 din space, is that what this box is for? Or do I have everything wrong, maybe it varies from year to year?
thanks
micum

I think that's exactly what this is for.

MK