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Took it for another road test and wanted to clarify what happens when the MAF is unplugged. I still can't go WOT right away, it will cut out at 0 boost, but if I go part throttle until it starts to build boost, then I can go WOT and it will fully boost and pull. This makes me think it's not the MAF ...

Got the ej22t swap back on the road today and it is acting funky. With MAF plugged in it it will start and idle fine, and starts to pull from a stop just fine but once the vacuum starts to creep towards 0 boost, the car sputters, hesitates, and won't accelerate or build any boost at all. If I unplug...

Got it figured out! I had it wired up like the pressure sensors with the black wire (red for ground, white for power, black for signal) but since I have the green wire I tried it with red being power, white being signal, and green being ground, and the problem disappeared! Still getting some sputter...

Got it figured out! I had it wired up like the pressure sensors with the black wire (red for ground, white for power, black for signal) but since I have the green wire I tried it with red being power, white being signal, and green being ground, and the problem disappeared! Still getting some sputter...

Knock sensor is from me messing up the wire during engine pull one time. Did a quick splice with wire caps, and it didn't throw the code before I pulled the motor this time, so im betting the wire is just messed up again. Code 45 remains no matter what though. I am trying to figure out the wiring fo...

45 is map right? your any load cut is really zero vac and above cut. there's an issue with the map sensor not reading anything and the ecu is playing safe and not letting the car boost. i had the same issue years ago when i tried wiring in a fuel cut defender. i got the wires wrong i guess and shor...

Freshly completed ej22t and 5mt swap throwing codes 22 and 45. 22 is from me busting the knock sensor wire and trying to throw a quick fix at it, so that is really a non issue here. Code 45 is stumping me though. It sputters and fuel cuts under almost any load from the gas pedal. I can feel the pres...

First successful drive of the swap! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oOeJrEsgXEk still throwing codes 22 and 45 and fuel cutting, but I'll work on that tonight.

Pedal adjustment was not letting the master return all the way, but I bought a new master anyway and got everything hooked up and bled properly. Waiting for daylight to go on my first test drive.

Replaced the washers, hooked the system up out of the car and started to get some pressure in the master cylinder. Unhooked everything and re-installed it in the car and now I once again am getting no flow or pressure out of the master. Leak is fixed, what am I missing here?!? Bench bled the MC last...

Found the system to be leaking where the line bolts into the slave. I lost the washer that was on there so I used one that I had that was slightly larger so tomorrow I will pick up some new washers and hope that is the only issue. After further thought thought, it was working just fine before I pull...

The service procedure is to take the slave off and place it in a clamp. The bleed screw is below the piston so any bubbles at the end won't make it out. Ya I have been pulling the slave and hooking it up to a c clamp, my problem is that I can't get fluid started in the lines from the master cylinde...

Slightly unrelated, but any advice on bleeding the slave? I replaced the flex hose with a SS line from the hard line to the slave. When I hook everything up, I can't get any fluid moving through the line. It seems to only be bleeding the slave cylinder. Even hooked a vacuum pump up and it just sucke...

mike-tracy wrote:You can grab the flange off the old 3.9 diff if you have it.

I would have long ago if I had known but I bartered the diff for some other parts so I don't have it any more.

Was you car originally 5spd? If it wasn't it may have the wrong rear gear ratio. I believe 98 Forster 5spd is 4.11, I maybe wrong. Also which driveline are you using? Car was originally 4EAT, but 4.11 rear diff was swapped in with Forester tranny. Just haven't found the correct flange for the rear ...

Similar thing happened to me, in that one front axle was completely broken and one rear axle wasn't seated in the diff, when I first got my SS running. Wasn't the most obvious thing since there were no nasty noises. I prob put 5 miles on mine in that state, and in 18k miles since then, the tranny h...

That makes sense. You will only get as much torque transferred to the front wheels as the viscous fluid is capable of transmitting (4kg-f/m for every 100RPM difference). Any extra torque over that would translate to a slipping center diff and be converted to heat. Hopefully you didn't drive too muc...

Yes....the center is an open diff, so you'd only be getting @ the most 50% of the 'torque' to the front wheels, IIRC. And no idiots allowed on here, so worst case you're just human! :-) TD Bingo! Haha I'm just frustrated that I didn't realize it until I took everything back apart. Oh well, peace of...

Ok so I believe I am an idiot. I have been running the car with only the front two axles because the flange from the driveshaft to the rear diff is different. I had the FWD fuse installed running in FWD mode, and did not realize that the manual cars did not come equipped with this. I am assuming it ...

Ok this is starting to get quite frustrating. Pulled everything back apart (getting quite efficient at these motor pulls), and pulled the pressure plate and disc back off the flywheel. Everything was installed in the proper direction, and I even double checked the torque of the pressure plate bolts ...

Pulled the Master and Slave Cylinders completely off the car and started the car in 1st to see if the slipping persisted without hydraulics, and it did. So now to pull the motor back off and see wtf is up...

Is there any play on the clutch fork with the clutch fully disengaged and car sitting there? If not and if it feels "tight", then you may have adjust the clutch master cylinder push rod clevus pin too much. There is a point on the master cylinder where if the push rod is not fully disenga...

So I recently completed a ej22t and 5mt swap on my 93 legacy. The transmission is out of a 98 forester. So I got a brand new factory flywheel, clutch disc, pressure plate, throw out bearing, pilot bearing (for a 98 forester of course). Used master and slave cyl out of the forester the tranny is from...

Correct, they're going in the front. No sub yet, but I'll be doing sub & amp set soon, may or may not do rear speakers at the same time. Would I be safe running the crossover in full mode until I get a sub, or should I play it safe and stick with the HPF? Thanks again!

Hello all, For x-mas my dad got me a pair of Sony Xplod XS-R1644 6.5" 4-way speakers. They are rated at 270w peak, and 50w RMS @ 4 ohms. I also had an amp laying around from one of my old flip cars. It is a Rockford Fosgate punch 160. It's a 2 channel rated at 2 x 80 watts rms @ 2 ohms, or 2 x ...