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Did you modify the MAP ground as shown in this post? http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=43959

Rob

Yay! Good news. Thanks for the update. I love the problems that are not my fault

-Rob

It sounds to me like a coilpack or plug wires. You should be able to run a 0.032" gap without ignition cutout.

-Rob

Hi, Just to be clear the reason for launch control stuck on was because of error code 33. LC is only disabled after the ECU sees a speed reading above 2MPH. Without a speed reading (or a speed reading fault) LC is always active. As I mentioned in our email exchanges, as with LC, I think the abnormal...

Glad you got it figured out Andrew. Good catch by Todd.

Just FYI, the info on the MAP sensor ground wiring is described much more clearly in my thread; Adapting an EJ20G ECU

-Rob

I do not keep track of forum handles. Privately send me his email address.

Rob, Here are my edits/suggestions. Feel free to use all, some, or none of them as see fit :) Thanks for the review and suggestions Josh. I hope you didn't run out of red font :) For my first attempt I was aiming to cover all of the technical details and make sure it made sense. I didn't see any ed...

I had to read up on ground loops to understand where you were coming from. So would you suggest those of use that have the coils grounded to the mounting bolt instead run the grounds to the main ground on the intake manifold? Any point on the head should be fine. Even a cam cover bolt on the head s...

Repositioned ground with added chasis ground. http://i733.photobucket.com/albums/ww331/TonyHamre/91%20SS/IMAG0689.jpg [/quote] Unless that extra wire to chassis ground is directly attached to a chassis to battery ground point, then are creating a likely ground loop that can cause all kind of funny p...

Rob, if you take a look at my video, what do you think is happening? I'm going to replace my knock sensor. I see the knock light flickering in free rev sometimes here and there. Also when my car scrapes the ground, it will flash. I can lug my car up a hill in 3rd and I never see the light. Only whe...

Yep this is a real problem. I just had another customer with this issue. I ran into this years ago during rallyx. Luckily my Defi fuel pressure gauge showed me exactly what was going on. I don't think I had the problem running the stock ej25. The difference is a much higher fuel demand (pump and inj...

Hi all, Here is my first attempt at what will eventually end up on my FAQ for how my knock light works. Let me know if you see anything missing, incorrect, or just plain confusing. -Rob Robtune Knock Light behavior My custom knock light code is triggered off of a specific software flag in the subaru...

If you are seeing the hyper flashing CEL, you the ecu is reporting a fault. You need to try to capture that fault. I know you mentioned that you have pulled code 43, but I don't think that is your issue. Code 43 is for an accelerator pedal switch that was only available for JDM cars. That code does ...

21 AFR at idle !?! You sure that LC-1 is working ? Have you done a free air calibration or is it actually that bad ? Mine says its 14-15 AFR at idle , the difference is mine has no CEL , that what makes it tricky ! Although it did in D-Check, not U-Check. Is that a problem rob ? Am I doing somethin...

Or he's just on accessories , unless you took the photo mid shift . CEL comes on with accessories no ? Cause you'de be running quite lean :!: just a pointless picture I believe :mrgreen: No, the engine is running in his video. You can see the RPM, engine vacuum and the CEL doesn't spastically flash...

legsportwag wrote: Sounds exactly like my issue....

You have an ECU error code. Check the code, troubleshoot and fix as necessary.

Next time you run into this, see if you can isolate the issue to a specific cylinder by pulling plug wires. If you can do that, then you can try moving components around to see if the misfire follows. This would be a good way to check if the problem is in the converter itself. For example if you fou...

Feels AMAZING now. pulls hard and holds boost at 16 with no stuttering whatsoever :-D Unless I take a right corner hard, then the it just skips a few beats. Think im gonna fill the tank with that fuel cell foam to prevent it from sloshing around. Take a read through this thread. http://www.rs25.com...

If it were me, I would start with a smoke or pressure test to see if you have any air leaks (probably before the turbo). I would also check if the vacuum line to the FPR is not leaking under boost.

-Rob

1 question though, i just got done reading all 19 pages (again) of this thread and didnt find my answer and it doesnt seem like any one else has mentioned it before. I know the CEL is now a warning light for knock and i was expecting to see it more then before, as its been years since iv seen that ...

Wow, yeah thanks for the excellent review on the tune. I really appreciate taking the time to share.

-Rob

Excellent, thanks for follow-up post and glad you like the tune.

-Rob

Do you by chance have a silicon coupler ahead of the turbo? I have experienced and have seen other cases where upon a large flow of air these can collapse and effectively shut off the flow of air into the engine. Without the stock BCS, the ECU has no way to restrict boost so it means there is a mech...

kack!

Yes I can be slow in responding, but on top of that unbeknownst to me, my home email server went TU about a week ago. Comcast decided without notice to block ports that it needs to function. UGH. I have it mostly back up and running, but I lost a few emails along the way.

-Rob

Quite different than my 91 legacy FSM procedure. It doesn't say anything about removing the ECU or checking the idle switch at the ECU end of the harness. It is also adjusting it by voltage rather than by resistance. Well you are running an EJ20G ECU now, so you need to follow that manual :) Likely...