legacycentral bbs

Pop off the timing belt access cover and check the belt/tension.

Quick update for you guys. Mine is still working fine. After reading what rallyak said I do remember changing my alternator. Not because i suspected it being the problem, but because I didn't want to sell my other Legacy with a brand new alternator.

Wasilla.......

Makes 3

LucyFord wrote: Did you run the stock FPR when you ran these?

Yes

I was fine with stock gap on NGK iridium plugs, but not with the v-powers.

That's weird about the spray patterns, I never even noticed. Is the injector built that way or is it possible a cap came off?

I know it doesn't help you identify them, but I ran those with a Revtronix 550 tune as well with no problems.

The only time I had issues like you described with breaking up at high rpm under WOT was with a set of spark plugs that were gapped too wide.

Was that you at the light next to me in Wasilla today?

Sun visors?

Yeah, March 14th was a bad day to be on the road. Only 3 more inches to break that record though. Which I hope doesn't happen, my car is a death wish in the snow. I've got some major suspension issues to sort out on my new commuting vehicle.

This your first winter in Anchorage?

I had this problem as well. It is extremely frustrating. PM me if you still need an ECU, I'll have to check mine, I don't remember what year it's from, I believe a 93.

Found one, thanks guys.

Going in a 1991 Legacy FWD Automatic NON-turbo


I'm pretty sure any non-turbo auto from the first gen. will work, but someone correct me if I'm wrong.


Because all threads are better with pictures I tried posting one but couldn't on the iPad

Have you erased the codes or run in D check mode yet?

http://legacycentral.org/library/literature/codes.htm

I'm currently running 1 qt. MOTUL300 75w90 and the rest Lightweight Shockproof and I've been very happy with it. Have had zero issues when it hits -20. Had straight MOTUL in it prior......... prior to 2nd gear blowing up (Loaned it to the inlaws :() Also, the straight MOTUL got rid of the 3rd gear g...

http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t63237-diy-engine-removal.html Another good thread on removing the engine. Google doesn't give much about the transmission, here's a short write up but no picture's. I'm a picture guy myself so I don't consider this a good wirte up. But there really isn't much to it o...

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/99-do-yourself-illustrated-guides/33809-engine-removal-thread.html A few tips on the way I like to do things: -Soak bolts/nuts in penatratin oil (especially exhaust) -Leave A/C and power steering lines connected (simply unbolt systems from their mounts and move as...

Injectors are a pain to seat. No sealer needed. Check the header to up-pipe gasket while you're in there. I've seen a few of them go. There is a turbo coolant line by the passanger heads. Mine blew on me, yours may just be a small leak dripping onto your up-pipe. Last thing is the turbo oil return l...

Any time for a quick write up?

Is it only the rear tail lights?

Do your brake/reverse/turn signal lights still work?

For those wheels, up front you will need 3mm spacers to clear 06/07 4 pots. Get them for the rears too so everything stays even.


Edit: You don't need to extend your studs. Simply put on spacer then wheel. I ran wheeldude's on mine.

Re-use the torque converter, input/output shafts, and front diff.

Do nothing to the rear or driveshaft, it was all plug and play. Though there is a LARGE bolt you'll have to remove inside the transmission. Rent the socket.

I followed the write-up on this site.

As far as durability goes, I've run a 95 impreza auto in my 92 SS for two years now with no issues. Currently it only has a catless turbo back, but for a year I ran Rev. stg. 2 with TD04 then a VF39 for a few months. I did add an external trans cooler and would recommend you do the same.

There may be a leak in the brake system. How's the level after you pushed that black rubber thingy back in? Have you changed brake lines? Keep on eye on your level and that black thing. If it's blown out the next time you take your master cylinder cap off, you have a leak.

Well guys good news and bad news to report. The good: my car starts no matter how cold it is, no problem at all. The bad: I don't know what fixed it. About two months ago I had to replace my transmission. So, out went the old one, in went the used one. Now, I have no problems starting when cold, my ...

I'm interested