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Find an engineering workshop and ask them to make one for you. It shouldnt cost you more than a pint.

Dont know how much help it is but having had the same intermitent pain in the ass code 22's I think Ive narrowed the culprit down to the wire touching the the block where there is a split in it (fook knows how it got split but I sorted it and it seems to work, or at least it might be doing lol). Sur...

Quick (and utterly useless point) but the elise weighs a damn sight less that 1900lbs, more like 600kg (1200ish lbs). Another useless point is that Toyota offers an off the shelf supercharger kit for the engine lotus used! Gimme, Gimme, Gimme!

Looks more like a casting fault than an actual crack to me. Wouldnt worry too much about it unless the cracks go right thru, its just something that castings sometimes do when theyre either overstressed or particularly crap material is used (looks like the cause here). It would be interesting to see...

Lol, could be
Think I may have found the problem, THERES NO BLOODY OIL IN IT! Now ive just gotta work out if the leaks comming from the turbo or just from near it .

Quite what temperatures are you expecting here, the hottest I ever saw it get on my old golf was 105degrees. I accept on a turbo car it may get a bit hotter but much hotter and the engine will be scrap anyway and the coolant will all boil off surely. Oh and whoever said hot oil will eat through any ...

Cheers for the link to the megasquirt, been thinking of looking that up again for ages now lol. By air signal I just mean the air that pushes on the diaphragm, just a term of phrase if you like. Thinking about the whole thing again though, what you are trying to acheive is to gain a rising rate fuel...

Just out of interest, in what way is porting (the polishing isnt actually all that essential from all ive ever heard) more expensive than a complete engine swap? Its definately a good idea to port the heads if your looking for extra power on any setup, its just that it is more expensive than just wh...

Right, a ball valve is just a ball with a hole drilled through it so that when the ball turns, it either restricts the flow or allows it through, imagine it as a spherical bearing or rose joint thats put in a pipe. Instead of a piston creating the restriction by moving into the flow it turns into th...

If your only going to do the job to test out the theory first then dont bother balancing the rotor, just be VERY carefull with it. If you plan on only doing it once then get it balanced anyway and have ALL the bits refurbed profesionally on common sense grounds.

Small point on something someone mentioned, when I started to do the mod i put just the mug inline with no hoses connected and the engine wouldnt start at all so you definately need one or more of em connected.
Btw, big up to the guy who came up with the thought, top modsmanship .

Hey, you couldnt fill me in on what the knocklink is. Does it replace the existing sensor, modify it or whatever and what does it cost? Also, what are you paying for the exhaust as I cant find any for the legacy here that are what I would consider a reasonable price. On the stroker business, it may ...

If the hose bore on the ATF cooler is much smaller than the main oil lines then youll probably lose oil pressure all through the system due to the restriction but the connectors will almost definately handle the pressure, hydraulic hoses of any sort are way OTT for engine oil pressures. Also, why ar...

Or even some grease in the socket :wink: . Glad to hear someone else is having a ball with their knock sensor :P . By the way, to reset the ECU look under your dash for 2 black connectors and 2 green connectors that are disconnected. Connect them both, turn the ignition to the setting before crankin...

As you suspect, its the rain getting into the ignition system. Get a tin of WD-40 (hope you get that over there lol) and spray EVERY ignition connection liberally with it while looking for any corroded connections. If that doesnt cure it then replace the ignition wires or give the existing ones a go...

*Suddenly remembers cost is an issue. Seriously, you will find it MUCH cheeper to buy something ready made off the shelf. Nice idea, but mass production has some major cost advantages and if you dont have access to lots of free stuff one offs like this end up being very expensive, I design bespoke m...

One other thought, have you considered the ratio of the pressures that your working with here, i.e fuel pressure versus boost pressure. Your going to need some serious pressure amplification to create a fuel restriction arent you? Your probably better off isolating the air bit completely and using a...

Can I suggest that if you go any further with the idea, you finalise on a diaphragm system as its essentially frictionless. Getting a piston to seal correctly for air is a complete nightmare unless you have rather more friction than the air pressures involved can move. Ive recently been playing with...

Most engines produce more power when the engine is cooler as the intake air is cooler and denser (especially true on turbo cars) and due to the thermodynamics of the engine (which I dont understand at all well) more power can be made by running the engine cooler, its just not quite as good for relia...

I did clean the mating face for the sensor on the block when I refitted it as this worked once or twice before on the old sensor. Im not so worried about the wiring as its been a few months since i fitted the sensor and no worries till now. Also the way it used to play up was sort of similar but on ...

Well, after a few months of playing around rebuilding my bike and getting it running like a peach, what do you know, the bloody knock sensor on the car plays up :evil: . Ive replaced it recently (£93!!!!!!!) and its definately the revised one but for no reasonable explanation the bloody thing has st...

Hmm, didnt really help mine m8, just put a new one in mine after wrecking the last 1 trying to get it to work properly (at 93 pounds im still feeling ill!) and its only as good as it was before sadly .

Mine ran a lot better when I replaced all the vacuum and boost pipes. I say this as its been hesitating a bit recently and 1 of the pipes was a bit loose, hey presto no hesitation (or fookin massive bunny hops when coming off the throttle).

Hmm, the controller wasnt bought of ebay was it. Think I undersstand how it works anyway and it sounds like it will just be a piston with a spring and a screw to adjust the spring preload. Basically to set it up undo the screw till you cant feel the spring pushing against it and screw it back up aga...

Just look around the engine bay for any convenient bolts that go directly into the block and measure back to the battery negative for your lengths. Didnt affect my cars running 1 little bit but that probably means the existing engine earths in good condition.