legacycentral bbs

An air compressor solved my problem. Blew the tab right out.

The tab on my speedo cable has broken off the tab is trapped in the hole on the transmission and I can't get it out, what am I missing here? How do I get that tab out to make way for the new cable is there some kind of snap ring Im not seeing or what? Any help is appreciated.

I had an issue with mine. The electrical plugs down there get water into them over time, usually from a leaky sunroof, but also from degraded door seals. I took my plugs apart and cleaned them best I could. And put dialectic grease around the contacts so water couldn't get in. That solved the probl...

Under the carpet under drivers seat, and it auto resets. 64-1 is the diagram you want to look at. (Diagram courtesy of josh) http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/files/swap/elect_unit_loc/6-3_electrical_unit_location04.jpg Thanks, so if it auto resets then my windows aren't working for another reason.

Does anyone know where exactly the power window circuit breaker is? I'm looking for a picture of it.

Is it under the carpet under the drivers seat, or is it next to the power window motor in the B pillar pocket?

Also, how is it reset properly?

Turns out it was a bad injector. I swapped with a working one from my donor engine. No more misfires no more related codes.

I still have the issue where my RPMs drop really low and then climb back up after a few seconds.

Quick update. After leaving the computer to reset the 35 code disappeared and was replaced with a Code 15. I'll be trouble shooting the injector tomorrow.

Hey folks, quick question, I had a code 35 Canister Purge Valve Solenoid pop up the other night and sure enough I had a really rough idle, misfires, and stalling the whole 9 yards. When I put a meter to the solenoid I got no reading at all just OL on my meter. Flash forward, I just finished swapping...

I'm going to try the jumping tomorrow and see what happens.

As for the wire you're talking about, I know for a fact I cut the AT/MT identifier wire. and I'm like 99% sure I cut the wire that feeds power to the Shift Tree. Nothing lights up there anymore. I'll double check on that and see what's what.

Back with that awful periodic no start issue. Riding in a 1990 Subaru Legacy 5MT (swapped from a 4EAT). The issue seemed to have resolved itself for quite some time. Just recently it has reared its ugly head again. So I did the swap following Legacy777's write up all the way through on his site. I h...

Sounds like a used oil pan is on the agenda Oh that hurts my heart. I'm gonna give the M22 tap a shot before I get to that. After consulting a buddy and some drilling charts. I can pass the tap without having to drill out the hole since the jack ass that over tightened the bolt already did that for...

So I made the mistake of being lazy and letting on of those quick oil change service places do my last oil change. Now that it's time for my next oil change I go to do it myself and it seems that the "technician" (heavy on the quotation marks :x ) really overtightend the drain plug. When I...

Did you adjust the throttle stop screw or the two screws that hold the TPS in place? If it was just the two screws that hold the TPS in place you can always just follow the procedure I linked to in order to adjust the idle switch properly. Just the two screws that hold the TPS in place, I was too s...

By the time I got there, the parking lights are on full time regardless of how the switch is set on the stalk. Well, palm on forehead. Forgot until I had a "Eureka!" moment that when the parking light switch on the top of the steering column is on, the parking lights will be on no matter ...

So what I did was unscrew the set screws that hold the TPS in place and rotated it on it's axis until I reached an idle of about 750 rpm as the FSM suggests.... Is that wrong? What are the consequences of doing so? I know that by rotating the TPS I'm opening the flange in the throttle body a few tho...

Issue resolved.

I replaced the Idle Air control valve with the known working part from my previous motor. Immediately upon starting my Idle RPMs were around 1,000 to 750. The Idle was a bit rough but after some adjusting of the TPS everything smoothed out and came together nicely.

Josh thanks for the quick reply. I changed the hoses and the knock sensor just now that cleared up the 32 22 and 24 but the idle is still racing. Yes I do have that screw on the throttle body but I've never touched any of those screwes. I had to move my throttle body over to the new engine, but I ne...

Hello everyone, So after making the decision to swap my blown engine for a new one I've run into some problems. Today was the first time I fired up the new engine and I'm having some big issues. So here's my problem. The engine races up to about 2500 at Idle. When the car is first turned on I get Co...

You can replace the long block with another from a 90-98 Subaru ej22 and reuse all your sensors, intake manifold, etc. I've done this before. Look for a car that got t-boned or rear ended cause that means it ran when hit lol. I'd need to swap the ECU though correct? I'm pretty sure they're differen...

After failing a chemical leak test, and really bad over heat, at this point I've given up on this EJ22 currently sitting in my Leggy. Here's where I turn to you fine folks. I'm looking for options at this point. I've come up with a couple that I can think of so far: 1) Replace with a used engine fro...

Also forgot to mention that it did resolve the situation with the energized clutch fork.

Wow, sorry about the really late update on this, life has been extremely busy with school back in session. Quick Update: I checked the ignition harness and turns out it was built wrong, I trusted a buddy to put it together and put it in and my fault for not following up on his work. Once I fixed the...

Sorry for the long delay holidays have been creeping up on us slowly, and for the last few days the starting has been consistent for the most part. Yesterday I had to make 3 attempts at starting finally easing onto the throttle the car turned over. Over the weekend, I took a pressure gauge to it bec...

The only modification to the wiring is the plug and play harness in the ignition. I'm not very confident about the way it's wired if I'm quite honest. So today was a good day, the car started. I checked fuel injectors (they all seem to be working), My fuel pressures are fine 26-30 at idle, when I ra...

It's manual but converted from the 4eat.