legacycentral bbs

Sadly, I'll bet you anything the injector O-ring got torn or pinched during the install. If the lower O-ring doesn't seal, there's nothing to stop fuel from being pumped right into that cylinder. You might not have damaged anything...but MAKE SURE and change the oil before you start your car.

I'd like to see more pics of the dashboard modification No pics of the dash cutting, sorry. Basically, the dash bar sits right where the ductwork for the dash vents goes, so there was a lot of clearancing to get it to sit somewhat normally. The vents still work a little and the defroster's *okay*.....

kimokalihi wrote:Well if it makes any difference both boots are torn and it leaks. How do I check if that joint is bad or not and what do I do if it is?

Well never mind then. You need a new rack!

PM sent.

Your rack's fine Kimo, it's just sticky from sitting so long. Don't waste money on another one, it just needs a little conditioner and/or some more bleeding.

The whole cage weighs 175 lbs ., give or take a couple of pounds. It's all built with 1.75" x .125" wall tubing.

Hwy. 66 & I-25. Directly north of you. I may have a spare O2 bung around the shop, I'll check.

The best thing to do would be to grind/cut the old O2 bung off and weld a new one on. Depending on where you're at in CO, I may be able to help.

Bienvenido al BBS! Es bueno ver Subarus procedentes de otros países

(Welcome to the BBS! It's good to see Subarus from other countries.)

I'm guessing bad/disconnected speedometer cable. Maybe something came apart during your trip.

Find me a fuel system in a higher horsepower car that uses a returnless system. There are none. How about every LS-powered GM vehicle ever built, including the ZR1? Or the Ford SVT Cobras and GT500s, or Chrysler's Hemis and Viper? ;-) Although it's really done to keep the fuel vapor and resultant e...

No need to search the nation for another used cap that's probably no good. Every auto parts store in the world should stock that cap; it's a pretty standard Japanese car part. The Stant part number is 10227, they're not at all expensive. Now go get one!

SLODRIVE - You think the action of the teeth shearing or cog snapping or whatever ends up putting contaminants in the oil that the aforementioned cleaning process won't get out? Even if it did, it seems to me that those parts are all steel and so the magnet would get them. The bearings may not be f...

Oil from a broken transmission is a little different than oil from a used (but presumably good) transmission. Depending on what went wrong, transmission failure will put a lot more crap in the oil than many thousands of miles of normal wear. Contaminated oil vs. dirty oil. It seems like the OP's mad...

Real easy fix.Find the strongest magnet you can and put it in a container with the oil and let it sit,move the magnet a few times and your done. Anything left thats non metallic wont do any harm. Right. Aluminum, stainless steel and brass are totally harmless materials to have in your oil. :lol:

The transmission swap shouldn't have affected the speedo unless the speedometer drive gears were swapped out before you installed it. I just swapped from a 3.90 to a 4.111 transmission and my speedometer reads correctly.
Tire size can throw off you speedometer - What size tires are you running?

Don't do it!!! Why risk damaging the next transmission you put in just to save $50? I can guarantee you that you won't be thinking about that $50 if you end up replacing you next transmission prematurely. Not only that, but I bet it'll bug you from day one if you're driving around with glittery gear...

I used the 20H motor because it was $1000 shipped along with the 4.111 5-speed I'm currently running. The EJ22T motor was toast, someday I'll build a nice bottom end out of it. The thing is, the 20H runs GREAT as is, uses no oil between changes, and shows 80+ psi hot on the oil pressure gauge...with...

I've been running an AEM F/IC for quite a while now in my Legacy and I like it a lot. It gives full control over injectors, MAF, MAP, some extra inputs/outputs, and lets you retard timing. I'm running an EJ20H swap, but using the EJ22T harness and ECU. Works great, passed emissions no problem, bla b...

I got everything sorted out yesterday and installed the trans last night. There were only a couple of differences in the JDM unit: First, it had an electronic speed sensor instead of a speedo cable, but that was easily swapped from my old transmission. Secondly, the harness for the switches was shor...

I'm still really happy with the F/IC...so far, it's given me zero surprises. The fuel-cut defender and MAF patch I tuned into it long ago still keeps the injectors happy, and to be honest I've barely touched it in months. Yeah, I'm still running the Hitachi MAF - I just haven't gotten around to inst...

It's been treating me really well, Jason. Until 5th gear went away, that is! :smt011 So, I took apart both diffs except for the pinion gears. It was super easy, I just kept pulling bolts and yanking junk out until I had a nice mess on the table. I should note that the LSD stub axles just pull out, w...

I swapped a bunch of crap around to install a 4.111 LSD rear diff in my currently dead SS.

It's really not that hard. I'm literally "making" a 4.111 LSD as I type this...the side seals look OK, and I'm using Fujibond instead of a diff cover gasket, so all I need is a little gear lube and I should be good to go.

Stolen from again? Are you kidding me? Maybe you and some friends could set up some kind of "stakeout" and catch the bastards in the act.