legacycentral bbs

Well guys, the reason we don't really consider turbos or anything over 2.7L is that he's probably thinking rally motors. To stay within certain classes have to be under a certain turbo displacement or no turbos.

Could someone throw up the IAC wiring diagram for me to reference? I recently did an EJ20G swap, and switched to COP. Starts up, idles high and tries to stay alive. Doesn't seem to idle very smoothly either.

Thanks.

Thanks!

So I had definitely cut out the wiring for the power mirrors. So I'll leave the sensor for the brake fluid.

Now to figure out my IAC issue on this swap... bah.

That'd be the one! You can even see the two B-r wires in question. The one on the far top right and then the one that is 5th from the left. Those are the two I have tied together right now. I determined one was useless for me. Could be related to radio/AC/lights/something that I didn't need for the ...

1991 Turbo SS

Not blue, white. Turns out its the plugs right in front when you pull the lower kickboard off. Went to go look at my parts car.

I snipped one wire, and on the same plug appears to be two B-r wires. One of which I deemed unessecary, and deleted it eariler.

So basically going to be looking at both wire. Cut one. If the CEL goes away. Cool. If not, I'll cut the other one and butt-splice the one I cut back.

I do have a parts leggy in my driveway that I can start to dig into. But that means taking apart the dash and getting to those wires in the back, then taking apart the harness to trace it. Not too much fun... :) Right now its going to be a "cut the left, or cut the right" kind of deal.... ...

Alrighty. So. This is going to be hard to explain. Hopefully I can get away with not uploading pictures just yet. SO! I was trimming my interior dash harness (rally car, race car, whee) and doing a good job of it when I accidently snipped a wire that I shouldn't have. Thought nothing of it, I'll jus...

No more than $50-75

I use Rotella 5W30 and run the ever living piss out of my engines. However. I change the oil after every race. That might be 300 miles, or 1000 miles on an oil interval. For a regular street car, oil type/difference/brand isn't going to make much of a difference at all. Just being vigilant about you...

If someone wants a second opinion on these cars, I live nearby and happy to check them out.

That's what I have decided to do. Found a great guide on wiring up GD coils. Doesn't seem that tough at all. Will just get quality connectors. Already have worked up a way to use the stock fuel rail and get a turbo intake under the inlet manifold using the EJ20G intake without giant spacers. Just sw...

Anyone else take the plunge on these?

So is there any performance or reliability benefit to going to COP vs wasted spark? I've got access to a lot of IM's that I can use (including some EJ20Ks) so getting one mounted up shouldn't be an issue. I've also got access to a lot of WRX coilpacks, so that's also not a problem. Wiring I don't mi...

Would like to keep from having random wires going all over the place. So solid connectors on the coilpacks is ideal.

Believe me, I've tried searching. Lots of good general information, but tough to nail down these specific questions. 1991 Subaru Legacy Turbo Current setup: RobTune 440 Running on an EJ20G ECU 4-to-2 ignitor conversion 440cc injectors The 2.2T in the rally car ended up having the thrust bearing deci...

Do manual seatbelts exist over there?

I was! It fell out of its ziptie hold 3 corners into the very first stage and was banging against my leg for a good 12 miles. Right after the stage pulled over to get some big zipties around it. Awkward to do when you are wearing a full helmet and HANs.

Legacy777 wrote:Got any pics of that motor tear down

I'm probably not going to tear down the engine anytime soon. Will be dropping in an EJ20G instead, and will put the longblock aside as a spare setup just in case.

Here's a quick highlights video of our weekend.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xe8sfWF9FhU

Good news folks.

If your crankshaft can move in and out over a quarter an inch, guess what? You can still rally 120+ miles on it, plus 250+ transit miles, and it'll still be perfectly fine.

You just might win regional rallies overall, and set top 5 national stage times too!

Make sure to set the idle with all your lights on and everything at full draw. You don't want to be at the start of a night stage, turn on the lights, and almost have the engine stall out on the start line.

Also a lesson learned from experience.

I run at 12psi in the rally car, this is 20+ mile long stages at full boost, turbo glowing red hot, the turbo probably sees more abuse in one rally then in a lifetime for most cars. Plus it has 175k on it. I just pulled the turbo off to swap out exhaust manifolds, and intended on replacing it with a...

The upgraded diffs will be great for track (legitimate track) and rally duty. But for RallyX/AutoX it's just going to cause too much understeer that will be tough to work around. I still have the 4kfg stock center diff in my rally car. I'd love to do a DCCD upgrade, but always on the lookout for a 1...

It's set to 12psi, anything over that with the little VF11 and you are just blowing hot air. It is a standard 1991 2.2 Turbo, stock exhaust, open downpipe, and a custom elbow with a big K&N filter. Otherwise just a RobTune ECU. Nothing fancy at all. Trans is a 4.44 JDM STI trans with Cusco 1.5 w...

There is a reason I've been sticking to the small VF11 on my rally car. Could I stick a 16G or a TD04 on it and get that bump in power? Sure. Is it worth the tradeoff of nearly instant boost? Nope. My car while underpowered compared to a typical "open class" car, drives with excellent resp...