legacycentral bbs

k thanks, yeah i figured they were all pretty close together which is what matters, except that 135. we just unplugged the coilpack and took each plug out one by one doing the test. (so there was still fuel goin in the cylinders)

I am curious what a healthy EJ22T block should show on a compression check... i searched and searched and couldnt find numbers for what they should be. Here is what mine looked like-bone stock in my impreza, a 1993 motor, no idea how many miles on it, but most likely lots. 1: 135 psi 2: 140 psi 3: 1...

shoot, sorry to hear this :( it seems like whenever yours was running, mine wasnt, and now that mine finally is perfect this happens!!! good luck diagnosing. fyi, i just did a compression check on my engine (finally) and... 1: 135 psi 2: 140 psi 3: 142 psi 4: 150 psi if you want to use that as compa...

The closest spot for me to test out my newly swapped AWD is mary's peak, now i know what ive been missing! My impreza was a base coupe FWD, now is AWD EJ22T, the torque sure helped me get unstuck a few times! pics taken saturday: http://img301.imageshack.us/img301/2445/uphillshot25bk.jpg http://img1...

seems like there are a lot of different degrees of it. i get it in every gear and RPM with anything above 0psi its a loud clicking noise and pulsation, boost bounces between 9.5 and 10psi. i assume because i have a crappy bellmouth downpipe that boost creeps alot and its the boost control trying to ...

Can you descibe the sound? I get a small pulsation through the driveline when I'm in fourth realatively low rpms. I'm wondering if what I'm feeling is what your hearing. mine certainly feels that way, not sure if its actually thorugh the driveline, or just vibration from the flutter itself... my fl...

hmm the knock sensor made it run really slow and in limp mode, but my IAC problem was different than yours. i just had the wires switched, when i fixed that it idled perfect and i can start the car without any throttle as well.

k, sounds like im talking to myself but i figured someone might want to know that i fixed my idle, turns out the closed and open wires were switched idles right at 700-750 right now very smooth.
one last thank you for all the help!

66bucks for a new knock sensor and she runs beautifully.. except for the idle.

LOL! so i looked at the knock sensor, and the ECU side plug (small male side i believe its called) the wire was so old and brittle it snapped off but was still kind of giving a signal sometimes (the reason for it coming sometimes at idle, and always now)

ill fix that, should really help..

pulled the codes before i reset the ECU...

22-knock sensor
!!! what can this cause? limp mode? pull too much timing? thats what it felt like.

24-IAC
expected/fixed enough for now
31-TPS
expected/fixed
49-MAF
expected/fixed

well a coolant line broke, and i fixed it stranded on the road by just bypassing the TB but still have coolant to the IAC. now though... the CEL is always on and its acting like its in limp mode... (6psi tops feels like its pulling timing) off boost its perfectly fine, but the CEL is on and boost ma...

thanks! ill try those things

starting fluid check.. heard of it but dont know, ill try and figure it out. maybe i didnt tighten my TB down good enough... it has an old cruddy gasket on it as well. read mode is with the car off and test mode is the driving one? im still confused, how can i do the read mode and get the CEL to fla...

well i have checked the vaccum lines extensively and even put clamps on where they arent needed so im not sure. how can i read the CEL code since its in my impreza? i read about how to read it from the legacy by connecting the black wire.... but i dont know on mine what would happen if my closed/ope...

ok well, i fixed the ignition switch diode, and it works now like it should! i think it just wasnt working before because other things were wrong at the time, grounds especially. the idle is still kinda bouncy, more so when its warm. i get a random check engine light sometimes when i come to a stop,...

it seems to get a little lower idle every time i run it hot.. gonna go do it again and ill do the heat cycle thing. i also got the wrx fuel pump in there finally :) it feels so great (cep the slipping clutch)! now i just need to do the awd swap, i even have everything i need. thank you so much vrg! ...

15 or 18, i was just guessing, but all those numbers were not in gear just sitting and free revving, driving around it would still go up to like 40 with light throttle, but WOT it went back down in the teens. IAC should be like 40% once its idling right correct? its at about 20% right now i believe....

crap, well i fixed the coolant lines.... and it still did the same idle thing. maybe just because i didnt burp it good enough and there was air there? i dont know i got it to 200degF, i think it may be something else, but its got to be the IAC still. for "timing advance" on your scantool, ...

im sittin here with the TB and breathers and intake stuff off the turbo, and this may be a silly question but does it matter which way coolant flows through the IAC or the TB? the only way i can do it without taking off the intake manifold is like...... water supply---TB left---TB right---IAC right-...

PM'd you!

i havent metered it, ill do that, it might have just been me being stupid and incapable that caused it to not work like it should have.
thanks for your help, ill post when ive gotten to work on it

yeah i knew the O2 sensor can (but still shouldnt), but the iac was definetly hot :shock: i just called my dad to have him disconnect the battery since im at school now, its been plugged in for like 36 hours though... i can certainly tell you that i tried both ways with a diode on the ignition swich...

by getting hot, i mean that they they are acutally hot to touch... the O2 sensor got too hot to touch, while the iac was just pretty warm... what i did was i added the diode between the self-shutoff and the backup power supply. dont remember which end went where, but i think it only turned on one wa...

now that i got it driving on the correct ECU, ive noticed some CRAZY wastegate flutter and realize what you guys were talking about. because its a bellmouth, 3", and no insulation, i can hear it when it builds positive boost, and its just as loud or louder at WOT after it pegs at 9psi. im glad ...