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Joe - It is possible for an overheated engine to blow a headgasket, which would make the engine overheat again and again after that. But it sounds like one of the things you replaced resolved the problem. Cool. If you're curious, you can test the old thermostat in the kitchen. Put it in a pot of wat...

Well, the oversimplification starts to fall apart if you try to use it to understand the more complex and subtle things about precession... The direction of gravitational force is always the same -- straight downwards. What's actually moving around is the torque that gravity is exerting. I'll try to...

Hrm, well, I don't really know any more than what I said above... It's possible that adjusting the TPS or IAC slightly might make it partly go away. The ECU does intentionally open the IAC valve up when you close the throttle so that the engine's airflow doesn't change too suddenly (kind of performi...

Hm. That's irritating. It looks like the ECU is still misreading coolant temperature. If you can run my scantool -- http://surrealmirage.com/vrg3/b10scan/ -- you can verify that by asking the ECU what temperature it thinks it's reading. But in the meantime, I'd switch my attention to the coolant tem...

Yeah, it's hard to wrap your head around without having studied kinematics recently. A simpler, though less precise and accurate, way to think of it is this: Usually, gravity pulls things downward; that's what gives an object weight. When something is spinning, the spinning "twists" the fo...

Yes, 13 psi is correct.

You don't say anything about what your engine setup is. If the combination of your IAC valve, TPS, and ECU is not all stock, or either the IAC valve or TPS are miscalibrated, that could cause this weirdness. The ECU does sometimes keep engine idle speed high when you're coasting; I believe this is t...

The Vortech FMU seems to be the most popular RRFPR. Used ones pop up in the forums for between $50 and $100 every once in a while. Here's someone on NASIOC asking $100 for one: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2307145 This is a much older post, but it doesn't say if it was ever sold....

I didn't remember your build. If you thought the fact that it was stroker was relevant you probably should have mentioned it before. But it actually doesn't matter in this case. What do you mean when you say you calculated expected engine speed? Expected under what conditions? I suspect this whole i...

You would hear the surge at the time when you would otherwise hear the blowoff -- just as you lift your foot off the throttle to shift when you're on boost. If you're not hearing clatter, I have to imagine your blowoff valve is actually working but is just quiet. Compressor surge with the TD05 ought...

That's weird. How could swapping the transmission and rear diff affect the tach? And what would the selected gear have to do with it? The only way a swap should be able to make the tach not work right is if you swap to an engine with a different number of cylinders. The tachometer gets its signal fr...

I wouldn't bother with the spade connectors. Just use butt connectors and you'll have one fewer potential failure point. Definitely use insulated ones, and if you can get your hands on the kind that have heat shrink and hot glue built in, use that. And make sure you're using a proper crimping tool (...

What did you connect the vacuum port from the BOV to?

Also, you say you're not hearing it blow off -- are you hearing the compressor surge during shifts instead? Compressor surge sounds kind of like a clattering sound.

I ran a TD05 with a rising rate pressure regulator for years. It's not ideal because you can't tune it very much, but it's safe for sure. I did put a bleeder valve in its vacuum line so I could adjust it a little using my wideband oxygen sensor, but you wouldn't have to do that. In my opinion it'd b...

Yikes. Maybe it's a bigger deal for the front axles than the rear. And, of course, I haven't been racing.

That was key information to leave out!

Advance can't read the codes, but you can. Check out the stickies in the Engine forum.

You'd tell us if the check engine light was on, right?

Assuming it's not, you might benefit from clearing the ECU at this point because it might have learned some weird fuel trims during the rough running.

Yup, this issue is right up there with "my parking/city lights won't turn off."

Yes, the engine will bolt up. Is the RS a turbo model? With turbo gearboxes you have to remove the spindle that the clutch release fork rides on. There's a 10mm allen plug on the left. If you don't do this, you won't be able to separate the engine and transmission because the fork won't let go of th...

I'm not familiar with UK models, but with North American 1994 Legacies (all 1990-1994 Legacies in North America, in fact), there's a connector in the fuel pump circuit under the rear seat that is a common failure point. If you remove the lower part of the rear seat it's right there on the right-hand...

CV joints have a fair bit of play in them. I swapped my GC's rear suspension parts for GD WRX parts to bump the track width up by about an inch. I know it's not ideal, but I've been doing fine with the stock axles for around 20,000 miles.

It's not climbing into the air. He's lifting it. It's just super easy for him to lift. The key to understanding this is that angular momentum and torque are vectors. If you curl your right hand's fingers and hold the thumb out (like you're giving the "thumbs up" sign) and then rotate your ...

The ECU's ground wires end up at the engine near the rear driver side intake runner. Maybe start by disconnecting the ring terminals and measuring the resistance to the pins on the ECU harness.

It could be. If the cruise control computer has trouble regulating speed it just shuts the system down as a safety measure. If the speedometer needle is bouncing around, the reading it's sending the cruise computer is probably getting the same speed readings.

You disconnected the stock gauge? You mean you removed the stock temperature sender and installed an aftermarket one in its place? Leaking out the weep hole is one way in which the water pump can fail, but it's possible for an old water pump to just slowly have its vanes wear down so it doesn't move...