legacycentral bbs

Yes, I'm sure the CEL is related to the speedometer going out. The VSS is built into the speedometer. If the speedometer isn't working (either because the cable isn't working or because the speedometer itself isn't), then the VSS signal will be missing.

Looking good!

Wow, I didn't know the EG33 did that thing where there's just one cam sprocket on each side even though it's DOHC. That's really cool.

Won't the ECU be mad if there's no functional EGR system?

Woah. By "finger tight" do you mean you were able to loosen them with your fingers too? Isn't the tension in those mounting bolts supposed to preload the pressure plate? I wouldn't be surprised if that was the cause of your problems. If you don't find anything else wrong it's probably a go...

If you can get your hands on a laptop with a parallel port you can try my free scantool.

It's been a long time since I've looked at a turbo injector up close, but -- I don't think that injector is different. I think there's a little steel sleeve that goes over the nose of the injector and seals with an o-ring. Your #1, #2, and #4 injectors came out of the rail with the sleeve still atta...

For what it's worth, I feel like I've heard of more new-style tensioners failing than the old-style. That might have to do with the fact that newer Subarus have longer belt replacement intervals though. I don't know if the changes happened at the same time or not. Is the old style setup new or used?...

That kit should fit, and it's kind of nice that it includes the cam and crank seals, but I wouldn't recommend trusting your interference engine to these apparently unbranded parts...

Supposedly, properly installed Helicoils are stronger than almost all factory threads. I believe they even say so right on the package.

Curiouser and curiouser. There's no spark? That makes even less sense.

Happy to help however I can... Let us know if another ECU fixes it!

I've never heard of this not-starting-at-certain-temperature-sensor-resistances problem. Sounds weird... The only explanation I could imagine is a bad ECU. So I guess you're on the right track if you're planning on replacing the ECU with a compatible one. And I have no explanation for the "code...

Oh, and, did you try just replacing the coolant temperature sensor? Even if it tests good it may have an intermittent problem that could make it your culprit. These sensors do fail and are cheap and easy to replace.

Your original ECU part number is a 94 non-turbo 5MT ECU. Is your car a 94? Your signature mentions a 93. The ECU you tried swapping in came off a 90-91 non-turbo 5MT. It's not that surprising that it doesn't idle right; 90-91 manual non-turbo models had a different type of IAC valve, a different MAF...

The factory service manual scans are correct. If the Chilton's manual disagrees, disregard it and follow the FSM.

This scan should answer your question about adjustment and idle threshold:

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... sting3.jpg

Awesome! I love the Powered By Home Depot approach. Way to get the car running! You might want to keep your eyes peeled for some emissions hose to replace the hoses you're using now though; the heat and oil will eat through them eventually. I believe Josh recommended buying emissions hose from RockA...

From what I remember, there are relay contacts in the motor assembly that wear out. Try this -- while holding the open or close button (whichever you're trying to do), give the headliner a smack right above the middle of the back seat. If that makes it work, you've localized the problem. On two of m...

That looks great. Where are you planning to mount the IAC valve?

Picasa lets you host any size pictures for free. If you have a Google account you can sign in with it.

But, anyway, I'd love it if you could send me the full-size throttle body photos; I'll PM you my email address. Thanks!

You have a post facelift. In North America, 90-91 are pre-facelift and 92-94 are post-facelift.

I have three listed for sale here: http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=48779

I don't have the parts, or a lot of time, so come back to me as a last resort, because to make it worth my time I'll probably need more money than you ought to spend on something so simple.

Welcome to the BBS!

The absolute first thing to do when the CEL is on is to read the trouble codes. Do that and let us know what you find. Start here: http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html

Then we'll go from there.

You have to dispose of the old fuel as hazardous materials. Everywhere I've lived, either the city or the county had a hazardous waste disposal facility. Sometimes you pay a nominal fee and sometimes it's just provided as a free service to try and make sure people don't just dump it into the soil or...

free5ty1e is (or at least was) selling some premade versions of my FCD on his web site. The page appears to be down at the moment but maybe you could contact him to see if he's still doing it. Here is his web site.

A couple of years ? Wow. Gas that's been sitting for a couple years probably will not burn well at all in your engine. The first problem is that the really volatile parts of the fuel have evaporated away, leaving just the sludgy stuff that's hard to ignite. Another problem is that over time gasoline...

EDM and USDM are incorrect terms. The only domestic market for a Japanese car company is Japan.

You can indeed ground the blue wire on the MAF connector (or at the ECU -- it's pin 8 of B58) to prevent a code 49 CEL. An S-AFC might not be good enough to tune around using the wrong MAF sensor, though; the difference in transfer function between the two sensors is nonlinear. I'd sooner swap in an...