legacycentral bbs

I think what I am calling the center blade is pin 3 by the diagram as 3 is between 1 and 2.
I stopped messing with this as I think I have a pretty bad front wheel bearing. Not making any noise like wheel bearings do and I was told they go bad without making any noise.

So the center blade would be the power and the outer 2 would be the grounds, correct. I pretty much know the voltage will be low. Maybe I could swap the relays and see if the drivers side glows.

I have had this problem for a while and would like to get it resolved. I am assuming it is a ground issue. It glows on both high and low beam. I have noticed that there have been a few times when it lights normally. I pulled the grounds apart that were on that side of the car and cleaned them again ...

You might try swapping out the whole diff for a different one and see what happens then. Someone on here should have one.

I'm with you on that. I have never seen one.

The term should be rat rice and I'm not trying to be derogatory. My son has a 93 Honda wagon with a less than perfect body, yet he has the big block as they call it in it and I have always said he needed to start a rat rice trend playing off the rat rod phrase.

The tranny oil will not warm up until you drive it. The thing to do is drive gently until warmed up and oil takes alot longer to get warm than the coolant.

Check your subframe and tranny mounts. Maybe something loosened up or the rubber is shot.

All I have to say is that one edm light put out more light than both of the stock lights. Well worth it.

That is pretty darn nice for a $300 car.

What about your throttle position sensor?

Your drive gear in the transmission may be stripped.

I think you have an issue with the moisture getting in something and messing things up. When the engine gets hot it dries the moisture out and it runs ok. I have seen it happen before on really humid mornings or after a rain.

An ac system will blow the coldest air when it is low on freon. At lest that is what I have been told before. That might explain your pleasure with the cold temps.

How would you know someone didn't just stick a plaque on the belt guard or took that piece off a different motor?

The turbo V6's of the 90's sounded good compared to the sound of this new iteration. Seems strange that they can sound so different and be the same type of engine.

Short trips like that are hard on any engine. Moisture is going to build up in the oil so it will need to be changed more often. If you don't there will be more acid in the oil which will not be good for the engine. Moisture is also going to collect in the exhaust which may rust it out prematurely.

To get it to fit you will need to remove the inner fender and install it from the outside. That's the way I had to do mine.

A place that does metal spinning could custom make you a velocity stack that would be the right size. The volvo piece that I used isn't perfect, but it is plenty big enough. The only real downside to it is the homemade lip. It would flow better with a really good radius at the opening.

No I haven't even been doing anything to the car. Thanks for reminding me about it.

Jeff

There are a number of videos about this event on you tube. I posted about them before, and someone else put up a link to them if I remember right. Search on you tube and you should find them.

Jeff

If the diaphragm is leaking it could cause a vacuum leak couldn't it?

I will get you one when I can.

I don't have any pictures of it. It was easy to measure for the length and od. The lip is at 90 degrees so it is shaped kind of like a top hat and it rests on the edge right before the ribs. I had a metal spinning shop do it for me. My only concern is if the thing digs into the rubber when things ar...

Another thing I did to improve the flow was to use a thin wall tube on the inside of the 90 degree rubber connector on top the turbo. The sleeve is on the inside of the ribs so they can still flex, but now they don't impair the flow of air. There is a lip that keeps the thing in place.

Jeff