legacycentral bbs

I would say NO because they are marked NA.

Turbo heads have a B there.

I have used VDO, Autometer and Omori.

The Omori is Very nice and worth the money.

But in between Autometer and VDO, I would go with the VDO becuase its cheaper, but still reasonable quality.

Although it was not 100% accurate.

I am moving to New Orleans need to sell my bike.

http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/bik/384245883.html

I also have an older CrMo Specialized for $100

Look like Phase I 2.5 NA heads. The pipe on the right side of the top picture looks like the EGR.

Be sure to adjust the lash when you put the new cams in. It will be a pain becuase you will have to buy new shims or grind a little off the end of the valve stem.
The Shims should be labled.

Do you have a Guage cluster?

PM me a price and I will think about it,
Thanks

I need to replace the Guage cluster in my 93 TW.
Preferable in Tacoma Area. Preferable 5spd.
Need it before end of week.

Looks Like 86ruguy has dibs. If you want anything please contact him.

They are 1998 EJ20R Heads. Almost identical to EK20K heads except have water and oil ports for the 2nd turbo.

Some turbo stuff some na.

It will easily fit in a wagon.

It will be available for pick up the week after next.

I have had a VF-8 for a couple years now. First on my RS-RA motor (2.0) It had very little boost(or power) below 3K. But after that it pulled hard till 7k. Now I have it on a 2.2 with JDM DOHC. My current heads have slightly smaller ports than the RS-RA(still very large). The turbo is at full boost ...

I am moving to New Orleans. Got some stuff I need to get rid of.
Dont want to throw it away.

Couple boxes worth of misc sensors, covers, a turbo intake, an axle and spindle. AC comp, an open 4.11 rear dif. ect....
All of its 90-99 EJ stuff.

Pick up only.

Yes NGK BKR6E or if you want to run one step colder BKR7E.
However, sparkplugs in a DOHC are a pain to change. So if you dont want to do it often you may consider the PFR6G-11 which is OE double platnium.

http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic. ... ej22t+dohc
Here is my vote.
Also, why isnt it a sticky?

Just use the engine harness from the 93. It can be a pain to swap, but not too bad.

what color is the catch can?
Im interested

Im guessing you have no CELs?

I recently had a similar problem. When I would hit about 6k it would start to pop and sputter, If I stayed on the gas it would slowly accelerate to redline(7250)

Turns out it was my cam sensor. I replaced it tonight and the problem went away.

Just a thought.

one of the outback

I think you can use metal SOHC gears.

In 99(00 for the legacy) we saw the 2.2 and the 2.5 change to Phase II. On both the 2.2 and 2.5 the Phase II changes were as follows: 1. The engine and the transmission are fastened with 6 bolts and 2 studs. 2. The thrust bearing has been moved to the number 5 position. 3. Oil groove in the number 1...

If your IAC is bad electically, then yes you can just replace the top part. But if the mechanial part(bearing, thermastat, ect..) is bad you will have to remove the whole thing.
If you remove the top, be sure to mark where to put it back.

Please refer to this thread. http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic. ... ej22t+dohc

I think it makes the article in the library obsolete.
If you have any questions on the head swap, please post it in that thread.

Otherwise its just the fact that the turbo IAC has the metal elbow on it. The NA has a straight inlet, which makes it VERY hard to plumb on a turbo.

All of this is dependant on what wieght oil you are running. And the quality of it. Cheaper oils tend to loose alot of viscosity at higher temps.

I would be more worried about Piston-to-Head clearances. The pistons on the EJ22t protrude from the deck about .010 to .012in.
Also the EJ205 gasket is made for a smaller bore.