legacycentral bbs

+1 for fuel pump

Red shows up pretty good, too. I changed everything out to red except the HVAC.

Ooh! Ooh! I got a fancy idea for mounting them......

You can get a new cable stop. I used the washer method, but one day they fell out. I just cut the old cable end off and put the new one on so it was a bit shorter.

Sent from my mind using telepathy.

I just sanded all the chrome off, hit it with self etching primer, and hit them with truck bed liner.

Sent from my mind using telepathy.

LOL I am gonna be playing anyways, so may as well support a good cause. And thank you!

This weekend, I am going to be participating in a video gaming event for charity. I would like to ask for your help. The event is called Extra Life, with all proceeds going to the Children's Miracle Network of hospitals. It is a 24 hour gaming marathon this saturday. I need sponsors to help meet my ...

Eek. hopefully everything is good. I did something similar (over-tightened the tensioner), and it turns out i warped the crank sprocket slightly. Hopefully it's good because you were using the stock pulley and not an aluminum one like I was.

I haven't had any issues with Dayco Timing belts, but the water pump really pissed me off.

+1 on factory stuff for the vitals. I went with a new aftermarket waterpump and it started leaking within 6 months, and the aftermarket oil pump I had that didn't ever seem to develop oil pressure fast enough for my liking (I don't have a gauge, but the dummy light stayed on far longer than I prefer...

Legacy777 wrote:Mobil clean oil 5000 - 10w30 (dino oil)

+1, and Purolator oil filters.

Could be quite a few things. I have seen the terminal connectors break, internal breaks in the wires (inside the insulation), and a bunch of other random shit.

I would check all of the above. You said you checked the fuses, but did you also check the fusible link in the underhood fusebox?

Initially tightening it about a half turn once the ring is seated. Enough that it is tight, but not super tight. Same as I have always done it, and never had issues before.

I try to stick with the same brand, but I may try a different one this oil change.

I do not have an old gasket on there. Whenever I change the oil, i wipe the mounting surface with a rag and lightly coat the new gasket with fresh oil. The mounting surface is flat, and I have a new gasket between the cooler and the block with the tube tightened adequately. It doesn't leak from ther...

The title about says it all. My oil filter keeps coming a bit loose (enough to leave a small puddle after a few days) between oil changes (I change it every 3k miles). I have been tightening it down enough, and using standard Purolator filters, just like usual, but it has done it these past 2 oil ch...

I actually dremeled out the housing on the corner lights to fit a dual filament bulb in the stock housing. That way i didn't sacrifice anything, just moved the turn signals up.

It's all good. Gonna be a bit before I can get around to building the new motor anyways.

Don't suppose you've had a chance to check on this yet?

http://www.forgemotorsport.co.uk/conten ... =FMDVS013B

I am running this Forge one.

Oh, and my zip is 29651. Might help if you needed to know where shipping was to.....

Edit: If all the rest is available I will most likely take it all. The new motor needs good heads something bad.....

How much for shipping the heads/gears and the manifold?

I am curious about this as well. I have the tranny and rear diff out of an '06 WRX sedan, and the rear axles fit perfectly while the fronts were too long because of the wider track. Is it a difference in the rear knuckles on the sedan, or how do they accomplish it?

any chance you could snap a pic of the intake mani?