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Power Steering Pump Disassembly & Rebuild

Posted: Mon Nov 21, 2005 5:22 am
by Legacy777
Not sure where to post this, so I'll put it here.

My power steering pump is leaking....yeah....that's right on a new engine......luckily it's not too bad.

I decided to take apart the pump from the turbo motor to see how they work. It looks like I can replace the one seal and it'll stop leaking.

There is a rebuild kit for the pumps that has all the seals, however I'm not sure if it's available. It's like 22 bucks. If I can't get the kit, I'll get a reman'd pump for like 100....unfortunately.

I took pics of the pump. It's actually pretty interesting how it work. It has metal vanes that slide in and out, depending on where the rotor is in the housing.
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8 ... eringpump/

Posted: Mon Nov 21, 2005 7:17 am
by AWD_addict
The pump just has the 2 O-rings and the gasket pictured?
22 bucks seems kind of steep.

Posted: Mon Nov 21, 2005 7:22 am
by douglas vincent

Posted: Mon Nov 21, 2005 3:35 pm
by Legacy777
AWD_addict wrote:The pump just has the 2 O-rings and the gasket pictured?
22 bucks seems kind of steep.
No, the pump kit has a the rear gasket, the gasket that goes between the plates and the pump body, the bushing that goes between the shaft body & pump body, bushing/packing for the discharge, and some spring plates to keep pre load on the bushing & front snap ring.

It's a full rebuild kit.

Posted: Mon Nov 21, 2005 3:37 pm
by Legacy777
douglas vincent wrote:It doesnt look this bad does it?

http://www.vincentfurniture.com/photos/ ... pump-1.wmv
No it doesn't look that bad. looks like you lost the snap ring that holds the shaft into the pump.

Posted: Mon Nov 21, 2005 3:43 pm
by tonflo
There's a bearing that can go, may want to change it while you're there

Posted: Mon Nov 21, 2005 3:47 pm
by Legacy777
I know the rear part of the shaft rides in the rear pump housing. Is the bearing in the front part? I didn't see it listed in the parts book.

Posted: Mon Nov 21, 2005 5:39 pm
by tonflo
I think it's on the front end of the shaft, can't remember for sure.

Posted: Tue Nov 22, 2005 5:08 am
by douglas vincent
Double check my little video. The bearing is in the front. I actually shattered the complete casing and ripped out the shaft and bearing.

Posted: Tue Nov 22, 2005 6:00 am
by dzx
I just removed mine. It's really not that bad, and when your moving its hard to tell.

Posted: Tue Nov 22, 2005 7:53 am
by douglas vincent
This is how I ripped that shaft out!

You can hear something going wrong on the second engine rev.

http://www.vincentfurniture.com/photos/ ... pump-1.wmv

I am posting this just for kicks of course. Nobody with a right mind would double rig a powersteering pump!

Posted: Tue Nov 22, 2005 7:48 pm
by Legacy777
I checked and the rebuild kit is available, so I'll take some pics when I get everything and tear into the pump to rebuild it.

Posted: Sun Dec 04, 2005 10:26 pm
by Legacy777
I took the pump off to do the rebuild. The leak may not have been coming from the back of the pump. The discharge line was not tight all the way. However I couldn't really tell if that's where the fluid was coming from or not.

Well I took the pump apart, and I have concerns about the bearing. It doesn't feel real bad, but it just doesn't feel like a new bearing.

I was going to get a rebuilt pump from the local autoparts store, however the one they got felt like the bearing was grinding, so I bailed on that.

The shaft/bearing piece is like $74. I'll see if it's available. If it is, I'll probably replace it since I already have the thing apart, and don't want to do this again.

If it's not available, I'll just put it back together with the new parts from the rebuild kit and hope for the best in the long run.

Posted: Sun Dec 04, 2005 10:58 pm
by douglas vincent
On the bearing there should be a part number. Go to any industrial bearing warehouse and get a new bearing. Probably $20 tops. It is press on/ press off style.

Posted: Mon Dec 05, 2005 1:15 am
by Legacy777
That may be easier said then done. Pressing the bearing off the shaft will probably be a super pain in the butt.

I'll look at the bearing though and see if I can find any info on it.

Posted: Mon Dec 05, 2005 5:35 am
by Legacy777
Checked the bearing. It's an NSK 6202V

If anyone has any leads on where I might be able to get one, that'd be great.

Posted: Tue Dec 06, 2005 5:40 am
by Legacy777
Picked up a bearing from a local NSK bearing retailer. It wasn't an NSK bearing, they didn't have any in stock, just the "house" brand....but whatever.

I used a washer and a piece of 3/4" diameter pipe to get the bearing off, and put it back on.

I put in all the new stuff in the rebuild kit and reinstalled the pump. I'll fire everything up tomorrow.

The new bearing doesn't have as much slop and doesn't feel quite so loose as the old bearing.

If you want to buy the bearing online and can't find it locally, you should be able to buy it here
https://www.motionindustries.com

You'll want an NSK 6202 VV C3 BRG

The VV code says that it's sealed on both sides.

The C3 is the tolerances inside. The standard bearing is like C2 which is slightly tighter tolerances. The guy at the counter said C3 is pretty much what you find in most everything, and that's what I got. You'd probably be fine with either.

I updated pics as well

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8 ... eringpump/

Not bad for like 30 bucks total....I ended up with a complete rebuild.

Posted: Wed Dec 07, 2005 4:17 am
by Legacy777
I'm a f'n dumbass!!!

I put everything back together and start up the car today......no power steering....crap.

Well when I took apart the pump there is a spring in the discharge line...basically a pressure relief valve. When I put it back together I didn't think there was one.....there wasn't anything with my parts....so I didn't think anything of it.

Well aparently I lost the spring. Luckily I had the pump off the turbo engine. So I stole the spring out of it. The relieving pressure is supposed to be lower, by about 5 psig. It shouldn't make a big difference.....if anything it should improve feel since pressure will be lower.

Actually this would be a pretty good way to reduce power steering assist. Get a lighter weight spring, or cut one of the coils so that it bypasses at a lower output pressure. It'd unfortunately be trial and error though.

Spring is now in, and power steering works....thankfully!!!

Other thing I forgot to mention.....I lost one of those damn screws on the airbox. That one at the back and the bottom is a bitch to get at....it fell down, and got lost somewhere.....luckily I had spares from the awd swap.

Posted: Sat Feb 24, 2007 2:42 am
by entirelyturbo
Here's some of my own tips from my PS pump rebuild experiences (most of them are trial and error, and just basically being an idiot and learning stuff the hard way). It's quite easy to screw up a PS pump rebuild.

I b0rk3d the bearing on the shaft when hammering it into the pump body, the socket I was using wasn't big enough, and it slipped while I was hammering, and dented the seal of the bearing in. After that, the shaft didn't turn inside the bearing as freely as it should have. That was a brand-new shaft assembly too that lists for over $100. I ended up actually having the Subaru mechanic at my dealership press another new shaft in for me so I wouldn't fawk it up again. Be careful with the snap ring too, it's easy to slip if you're using needlenose pliers and do the same thing.

I used the wrong O-ring between the pump body and the reservoir (the reseal kit does NOT come with that O-ring FYI, it must be purchased separately). I actually ended up using the O-ring that seals the discharge connector, as it was close enough in size. It wasn't perfect though, and although I didn't use that pump for very long, I'm sure if I had kept using it, it would have started leaking.

I also misplaced the O-ring on the discharge connector. It goes in the space farthest toward the outside of the connector, NOT over the little feed hole :roll: I knew this, but I wasn't paying attention, and when I put the pump back in and filled it with fluid and all that, I started it up and had hardly any power steering at all. I took the connector back out and found that the O-ring had ripped apart and actually got sucked into the feed hole, thus blocking the fluid. I was able to save all of it as one piece and take it down to Ace Hardware and match it up with another O-ring and used that one instead.

Oh, and I think the interchange is between 90-91 and 92-94, but the pumps DO change at some point. There is a smaller shaft bearing (my original pump and the JY pump I pulled off a 90-91 both have the smaller bearing) and there is a larger bearing. Blackbart sold me a pump off an EJ22T but I never asked what year, and then I noticed that it had the larger bearing.

Oh, and one more thing, the aforementioned relief spring that Josh left out, that CANNOT be sold separately. Strangely enough, it is possible to buy an empty pump body, with no shaft or vanes or anything, but it comes with that spring and shaft. Likewise, the only way to get that spring and shaft is to buy the empty pump body, which is something around $300 :shock: So if you wanna give Josh's suggestion of using a spring out of a turbo pump for reduced assist and better driving feel without getting reamed, you'll have to find a used turbo pump.

Posted: Mon Feb 26, 2007 7:53 pm
by Legacy777
Cliff notes for Michael's post: Take your time with the rebuild and be careful as you can screw stuff up ;)

In addition, from the parts book, it does not appear that the turbo models have a different rack or pump. The difference appears to take place in the 93-94 MY's.

Posted: Mon Mar 05, 2007 8:48 pm
by IronMonkeyL255
Another thing to add:

The part number for the kit is 34419AA030.

Just got done rebuilding mine, but haven't put it in yet.

Re:

Posted: Fri Jan 28, 2011 7:59 pm
by bry
Legacy777 wrote: You'll want an NSK 6202 VV C3 BRG
The VV code says that it's sealed on both sides.
The C3 is the tolerances inside. The standard bearing is like C2 which is slightly tighter tolerances. The guy at the counter said C3 is pretty much what you find in most everything, and that's what I got. You'd probably be fine with either.
C3 clearance is a loose clearance, and is what I use when designing industrial tranmissions that see temps to 220F. The idea is that heat causes the bearing race metal to expand, thereby reducing clearances. The clearances can reduce enough to cause excessive compressive loads on the rolling elements. This causes raceway fatigue and premature bearing failure. Moral of the story is, stick with C3 if possible. The power steering pump can get pretty warm...

Re: Power Steering Pump Disassembly & Rebuild

Posted: Sun Jan 30, 2011 12:56 am
by Legacy777
Thanks for the additional info on the bearing tolerance/clearance bry!

Re: Power Steering Pump Disassembly & Rebuild

Posted: Fri Apr 08, 2011 11:01 pm
by yazmo
its not look easy geez also this is for 91-92 right so its may be different for the 93-94 my?

Re: Power Steering Pump Disassembly & Rebuild

Posted: Mon Apr 11, 2011 12:15 am
by Legacy777
It should be the same. I am unaware of any differences or changes in the powersteering pump.