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I've successfully rebuilt my steering rack! Thanks to everyone for help and manuals!
Here are the photos:
Part 1 - http://www.drive2.ru/l/3916111/
Part 2 - http://www.drive2.ru/l/3916248/
Part 3 - http://www.drive2.ru/l/3916373/
Part 4 - http://www.drive2.ru/l/3922100/
Part 5 - http://www.drive2.ru/l/3922323/
Part 6 - http://www.drive2.ru/l/3922536/
Part 7 - http://www.drive2.ru/l/3927913/
Part 8 - http://www.drive2.ru/l/3928184/
Part 9 - http://www.drive2.ru/l/3935452/
Part 10 - http://www.drive2.ru/l/3943394/

How to check if blower motor resistor is operational? I tried to find in manuals, but there is no info...

the blower resistor is right behind your glove box. if you take the glove box out you will see a little electrical plug going to the resistor pack and two screws holding it in. once you pull it out if the resistor coils are broken in anyway, then it probably wont be working like it should.
as for a fix, ive heard of people just winding new wire around a pencil and soldering it in, or if you are able to, just soldering the original coil back together.

legacy4ever wrote:just my 02 cents: in my 1993 Legacy the door signs on the dash light up with the ignition OFF as well.
The wiring diagrams show that they are powered directly from the battery (fuse 25) and are grounded through door switches.

Interesting....must have been something they changed for the post face lift Legacies.

Stan,

Nice work on the steering rack & pump rebuild! Great picture documentation. Interestingly enough your power steering pump uses a film type bearing vs. a ball bearing. Here's my rebuild thread with pics to the different style bearing.

http://www.bbs.legacycentral.org/viewto ... 11&t=24143

Hello subabrothers and subasiters (if any) ))

I've finally connected my laptop to my car!!!
I couldn't wait any longer for connector to arrive, so I did it the "test" way, just inserted three wires...

Here's a video and some photos: http://www.drive2.ru/l/5536326/

I need some help trying to understand if those parameters are fine or not, and I would like to know what means "Load", "Fuel trim", "Injector pulse width", "IAC valve duty cycle", "Barometric pressure", "California mode", "Pinging" and when "Canister purge valve" should set itself to "ON"?

My subie lives it's life, and everything seems to be fine except for the fuel consumption, which is now 12.64 mpg. That's why I've connected the laptop to find out which sensors are dying. Also I've noticed that when I press gas in more aggressive way - car doesn't seem to respond quickly and accelerates slower than it can, but after 2800 rpm there's some kind of a boost and she starts to fly like crazy. What could be the problem? My three guesses are: throttle sensor, air sensor and torque converter...

Thanks a lot in advance!

Hi Stan,

Good to hear from you and that you finally got the laptop connected to the ECU. After looking over your video, everything appears ok with the exception of the "California mode".

As for your specific questions, I'd suggest checking out my thread here which gives some information/link to a Word document which gives standard parameter values when the engine is idling and all accessories are turned off.

http://www.bbs.legacycentral.org/viewto ... 19&t=24376

Load - Is referring to engine load; this value is an ECU calculated value based on information from MAF sensor. It can exceed 100. This is really just an arbitrary number, so I wouldn't get too worried about it unless you're seeing values that are outside of the standard parameters I listed in the Word document.

Fuel Trim - The ECU will adjust the engine's fueling based on the O2 sensor. If the O2 sensor detects the engine is running rich, it will slightly lean out the mixture so it is closer to the stiochemtric air/fuel ratio. Based on what I saw in your video the trims were negative, meaning the ECU was pulling fuel out at idle.

Injector Pulse Width - Is the time the injector is staying open, so 3.0 – 3.7 milliseconds is normal at idle for the non-turbo cars.

IAC valve duty cycle - Is the duty cycle the ECU is sending to the IAC valve to stay open. Duty cycle is basically alternating on and off signals. The faster you alternate the on and off signals the faster the duty cycle. Think of it like turning the light switch on and off. If you turn the light switch on and off 10 times in 20 seconds vs. 20 times in 20 seconds, you are doubling the duty cycle. Again, the important thing is to see what the duty cycle is in comparison to what Subaru states is the "standard" values.

Barometric pressure - This is just the atmospheric pressure the ECU is reading. At sea level it is around 760 mmHG. At 5,000 ft. or 1,524 meters it would be 632 mmHG. There is less pressure as you increase in altitude and the ECU adjusts the fueling based on this.

California mode - I believe this is something specific for the state of California and is related to emissions. I can't say exactly what it does, but I believe in this mode the timing is altered to reduce emissions. There is a wire you can snip going to the ECU that will take the ECU out of this mode.

Pinging - This is related to engine knock. If the ECU is detecting engine knock related to poor fuel or excessive pressure in the combustion chamber (related to turbocharged engines) the ECU would indicate pinging.

Canister purge valve - This is an evaporative emissions related valve that pulls fuel vapors from the gas tank to burn them in the engine. This valve is active typically when you are typically cruising down the road under mild throttle conditions; for example driving down the highway.

The California mode pin on the ECU, which is referred to as the jurisdictional ID pin is B56, pin 11. There should not be any wires going to that pin. Since the ECU is showing to be in California mode there is more than likely a wire going to that pin. To put the ECU in "non-California" mode you would need to cut that wire. I'd suggest cutting the wire a couple inches from the back of the connector plug so if there's any reason you need to reconnect it you can. The other option you can do is pull the pin from the ECU connector; that way you don't have to cut the wire, but will be accomplishing the same thing.

I've provided some links below with the ECU I/O. Once you've verified that the ECU is not in California mode I recommend resetting the ECU by remove fuse 14 EGI/TCM for about an hour while the car sits. Reinstall the fuse and then drive the car around. The ECU will continue to learn as you drive it.

http://surrealmirage.com/vrg3/ecupins/

http://main.experiencetherave.com/subar ... _page1.jpg
http://main.experiencetherave.com/subar ... _page2.jpg
http://main.experiencetherave.com/subar ... _page3.jpg


I don't know whether the California mode is the cause of your fuel economy problems, I kind of doubt it. If you can list out your scan tool parameters like I have in that thread I linked to above or fill out the Word document that will at least give us another base line to compare to.

The throttle response issue you are experiencing sounds a lot like over fueling and/or MAF related, but I believe you replaced it and that didn't fix anything, can you confirm this?

As for the California mode. My car is from Germany, could it be turned ON because of Euro-2/3/4 standarts they have there? I don't know if they are as strict as Californian ones, at least who knows which standards were in 1990?

As for the MAF, no I still have the old one, it shows 1.08-1.20 V all the time (as you've seen on the video), some subarists around say it's because the MAF is dying slowly... Non-original Bremi MAF doesn't seem to work on my Legacy and other Subarus (tried on 2-nd generation Legacy, and 1-st generation Impreza WRX)

Here is how my throttle sensor looks like: http://www.drive2.ru/l/5406655/, it's without a plastic case! (

The fuel consumption was fairly good in the summer, around 15.68 mpg, then it started rising: https://c-a.d-cd.net/18f623cs-960.jpg, the lowest value 9.5 l/100 km (24.75 mpg) was in the middle of summer, it was a 300 kilometers trip on a highway.

People recommend me to change gasoline back to 95. Probably because 92 is really bad in Russia nowadays...

Here's another subarist is experiencing problems with his EJ20: http://www.drive2.ru/l/5551585/

Software says that ROM ID is unrecognized. Is it because this software is for EJ22 and EJ20T only?

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe you are running a north American Legacy ECU; is that correct? If so, the pin outs for the north American cars are slightly different than the cars in Europe and Japan. So more than likely the federal jurisdiction (California mode) pin was wired to be something else for the European & Japanese cars and is triggering the California mode.

Does the MAF voltage show to be within the ranges listed in the Word document I posted above when the engine is idling? Have you tried actually driving the car with the laptop hooked up? The MAF voltages should increase more when the engine is loaded and you're driving. When you're just revving the engine in neutral the voltages won't increase as much.

The scan tool software is only setup to work with the North American 90-94 Legacies. It may work with some other ECU's depending on the ROM, but the scan tool will most likely not work with the Legacy's outside of North America.

I looked up the Russian manual. It says that B56-11 is AT eco mode. There is a green button which turns on some kind of economy mode for automatic transmission. I thought about this when I looked at the California - ON parameter, but turning it off doesn't change anything )))

I'll try to drive around and look at the MAF sensor readings to see whether it works fine or not...

AT Economy System
http://images.neoriginal.ru/index.php?c ... 5b03c3f8f6 - Button number 4

Would you happen to have a complete ECU I/O list for your car?

I guess it's the same as on the 267-268 pages of this manual

Ok, so the AT economy mode is in that panel? Are there any additional buttons on the shift lever besides the one used to change gears?

Is there an "AT Economy" display on the dash?

1. There is a MANUAL button on the shift lever, when it is pressed I can see yellow "MANUAL" lamp light up on the dash
2. There is no "AT Economy" display on the dash
3. There is also "POWER" lamp on the dash, but I've never seen it light up, exclusions are (AT self diagnostics and ignition on which checks all lamps)

Ok, I would personally just pull that pin from the ECU harness. That way the ECU sees the right setting to not be identified as a "California" car and if you ever need to put that wire back you can easily re-insert the pin in the ECU connector. The quickest option is to just cut the wire going to that pin.