Needed to buy an engine, now I get to sell it, YAY (EJ25D)
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- In Neutral
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- Joined: Mon Dec 05, 2005 6:33 am
- Location: Seattle, WA
Needed to buy an engine, now I get to sell it, YAY (EJ25D)
Needless to say I'm...pissed. Long story short, needed an EJ25 SOHC for my 2000 GT, lots of people told me the EJ25 DOHC block would fit, so I bought one out of Miami for $400 + $280 shipping. What a deal!
So I get my engine, take it to my mechanic...and it's BS from the start. My car has 6 bolt housings, the engine I got has 4 (still fits, but who knows what could go wrong). The engine I got is Japanese, which isn't REAL bad...but...there's just way too many things out of place (uh, belt housing? water pump? wtf is the exhaust doing in FRONT of the ENGINE?!), that would require me essentially to replace my transmission. Still...i'm almost willing to go through with it. Until we realize that the engine is automatic.
My car is a manual.
So, it's toast. Supposedly it's an interference engine, but my mechanic looked at it briefly and told me it doesn't look bad, if at all. Yeah, the timing belt walked off and sliced through the cam cover, but we didn't look any further. Otherwise the engine looks fine.
EXCEPT THAT IT WOULDN'T FIT IF THE POPE HIMSELF BLESSED IT.
And so, I'm going to spend a week and try to sell it to break even. If that doesn't work, I'll ship it back via the warranty and make back a whopping $20...since not only do I get to eat shipping it over, I get to pay to ship it back.
So if there's any offers out there...$400-$500 is my price. Don't waste my time with single parts requests, it's the whole shebang. I'll pay 1/3rd shipping, so at most your looking at $700 or so. Engine has 95,000 miles on it. If by some miracle your within the Seattle-Tacoma-Portland area, I'll pay entire shipping by fronting my own gas money to drive it down. But it's AS IS...If I drive it down, we unload it and it's yours, none of this "wow, I think i'm going to change my mind". It's up to you. Not trying to screw anyone (since I now know the feeling of getting a$$rammed to the 10th power), I just want to get out of this with my dignity intact, and pray and EJ25 SOHC from some random 2000 come flying to my doorstep on angel's wings. One can hope anyway...
My e-mail is Hondassuck131@hotmail.com, or just PM me. Whatever.
So I get my engine, take it to my mechanic...and it's BS from the start. My car has 6 bolt housings, the engine I got has 4 (still fits, but who knows what could go wrong). The engine I got is Japanese, which isn't REAL bad...but...there's just way too many things out of place (uh, belt housing? water pump? wtf is the exhaust doing in FRONT of the ENGINE?!), that would require me essentially to replace my transmission. Still...i'm almost willing to go through with it. Until we realize that the engine is automatic.
My car is a manual.
So, it's toast. Supposedly it's an interference engine, but my mechanic looked at it briefly and told me it doesn't look bad, if at all. Yeah, the timing belt walked off and sliced through the cam cover, but we didn't look any further. Otherwise the engine looks fine.
EXCEPT THAT IT WOULDN'T FIT IF THE POPE HIMSELF BLESSED IT.
And so, I'm going to spend a week and try to sell it to break even. If that doesn't work, I'll ship it back via the warranty and make back a whopping $20...since not only do I get to eat shipping it over, I get to pay to ship it back.
So if there's any offers out there...$400-$500 is my price. Don't waste my time with single parts requests, it's the whole shebang. I'll pay 1/3rd shipping, so at most your looking at $700 or so. Engine has 95,000 miles on it. If by some miracle your within the Seattle-Tacoma-Portland area, I'll pay entire shipping by fronting my own gas money to drive it down. But it's AS IS...If I drive it down, we unload it and it's yours, none of this "wow, I think i'm going to change my mind". It's up to you. Not trying to screw anyone (since I now know the feeling of getting a$$rammed to the 10th power), I just want to get out of this with my dignity intact, and pray and EJ25 SOHC from some random 2000 come flying to my doorstep on angel's wings. One can hope anyway...
My e-mail is Hondassuck131@hotmail.com, or just PM me. Whatever.
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The back of the engine is fitting for an automatic...no pilot bearing, no area for me to stick my transmission. I'm not real good with engines, but my mechanic took one look at it and said "No F'ing way it'll fit".
As for the price, it's open for discussion. I'm paying 1/3 shipping so at 500 it still balances out...650-700 either way, which is what I paid for, just trying to break even.
As for the price, it's open for discussion. I'm paying 1/3 shipping so at 500 it still balances out...650-700 either way, which is what I paid for, just trying to break even.
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- Vikash
- Posts: 12517
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The pilot bearing fits into the center of the flywheel. You'd need to transfer the flywheel over (and remove the flexplate and torque converter if either is still attached to the engine). The engine is not different for different transmissions; it's just that autos use flex plates and torque converters while manuals use flywheels and clutches. I would expect this to be obvious to a mechanic.
Bolting a 6-bolt engine to our transmissions' bellhousings is just fine. Two holes just go unused.
If the exhaust is coming around the front of the engine, it sounds like this is some kind of turbo exhaust... Are you sure it's an EJ25 block? Does the block have "EJ25" cast into it underneath the alternator?
If this is an EJ engine, it absolutely can be made to fit into your car. Your mechanic is mistaken.
A valve timing problem on a DOHC EJ engine? Did your mechanic's brief look at the engine include a compression check?
Bolting a 6-bolt engine to our transmissions' bellhousings is just fine. Two holes just go unused.
If the exhaust is coming around the front of the engine, it sounds like this is some kind of turbo exhaust... Are you sure it's an EJ25 block? Does the block have "EJ25" cast into it underneath the alternator?
If this is an EJ engine, it absolutely can be made to fit into your car. Your mechanic is mistaken.
A valve timing problem on a DOHC EJ engine? Did your mechanic's brief look at the engine include a compression check?
"Just reading vrg3's convoluted, information-packed posts made me feel better all over again." -- subyluvr2212
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No, my mechanic didn't do a compression check. It just seems simpler to re-sell it so we're not going to bother unless we have to. And yes, the block says "EJ25", but we still have a hard time thinking it can really fit into my car. The belt housing would need to come off of my car in order to fit the engine, and little things like the water pump and such are in completely different areas.
As for the exhaust, he did mention that the engine might possibly have had a turbo as a result of the exhaust being up front, but there's no other way to tell.
As for the exhaust, he did mention that the engine might possibly have had a turbo as a result of the exhaust being up front, but there's no other way to tell.
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I don't know what you mean in regards to the belt housing, but since it's a japanese engine, it's different than mine, and as a result, my mechanic needs to know if mine can come off and fit onto the japanese engine. Otherwise I have to buy an entirely different housing + transmission in order for the engine to work correctly in my car (assuming of course i can fit my flywheel/clutch/pilot bearing into the engine).
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- Vikash
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Oh.. BelLhousing...
Nothing has to change with the bellhousing!
Your transmission will bolt directly to this engine. The two bottom studs and the two upper bolts that held your stock engine in will hold this engine in. The two extra bolt holes in the engine just go unused.
Nothing has to change with the bellhousing!
Your transmission will bolt directly to this engine. The two bottom studs and the two upper bolts that held your stock engine in will hold this engine in. The two extra bolt holes in the engine just go unused.
"Just reading vrg3's convoluted, information-packed posts made me feel better all over again." -- subyluvr2212
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Just called my mechanic, explained everything you told me, vrg3, and he sighed a breath of relief and said it should fit then, so I guess I'll start the swap next week. I appreciate your help cuz this was stressing me out to the point of just giving up and scrapping my car. I haven't driven my car in 3 months and to scrounge up enough money to buy an engine on unemployment, only to hear all that bad news, is enough to send anyone into conniption(sp?) fits. Plus, when he gets home, if he has any other questions to relay to me, I will post them.
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- Vikash
- Posts: 12517
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No problem, just trying to help...
The turbo exhaust and water pump seem to indicate that a previous owner turbocharged this engine... I don't think any factory-turbo EJ25s had 6-bolt bellhousing patterns.
Is there a new fitting attached to the oil pan or maybe the lower part of the passenger side valve cover, maybe to receive the oil drain from a turbocharger? Any interesting fittings on top of the block where oil might be tapped?
If there are, you'll need to somehow plug them.
Before your mechanic puts the engine in the car I think he should at least do a leakdown check on each cylinder. A brief external look doesn't tell you anything about whether the timing problem bent a valve.
The turbo exhaust and water pump seem to indicate that a previous owner turbocharged this engine... I don't think any factory-turbo EJ25s had 6-bolt bellhousing patterns.
Is there a new fitting attached to the oil pan or maybe the lower part of the passenger side valve cover, maybe to receive the oil drain from a turbocharger? Any interesting fittings on top of the block where oil might be tapped?
If there are, you'll need to somehow plug them.
Before your mechanic puts the engine in the car I think he should at least do a leakdown check on each cylinder. A brief external look doesn't tell you anything about whether the timing problem bent a valve.
"Just reading vrg3's convoluted, information-packed posts made me feel better all over again." -- subyluvr2212
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Does your engine look like this??
if so this is an ej25 from japan, like your saying with the exhaust the wraps around the front all you need to do is use the headers from your engine, if the sensors are different, simply unbolt the intake manifold, and put your old one on the new engine.
It should be quite simple
if so this is an ej25 from japan, like your saying with the exhaust the wraps around the front all you need to do is use the headers from your engine, if the sensors are different, simply unbolt the intake manifold, and put your old one on the new engine.
It should be quite simple
04 modified XT
99 LGT Limited
99 LGT Limited
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- quasi-mod-o
- Posts: 2574
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- Location: Ghetto Garage, CO, USA
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There is one glaring issue that people seem to be missing here. The engine he bought is a DOHC engine and the engine he fouled is SOHC. This engine will not drop right into your car.
Now, if you will recall our conversations around this previously, you can use the bottom end; ie the shortblock and bolt your heads to it. You will need new head gaskets, and you will use your intake manifold and wiring harness. That engine as it stand probably won't even plug into your chassis wiring harness. The engine can solve your problem, but not in it's current configuration.
And I would strongly consider finding another mechanic. If he can't figure out that the flex plate for the auto tranny and the flywheel bolt up to the engine the same way, he's having some issues. And the water pumps are interchangeable. Just pull the one off of your SOHC engine. Same thing with the timing belt pullies. You will need to to make it work with SOHC heads.
And as has been said, number of bolts doesn't matter. Bolts right up, but your starter will mount slightly differently. And use your exhaust and not the exhaust on the engine.
Shoot me some pictures of this engine if you want to be sure what it is. Show me the front of the timing belt covers if there is still an EJ25 number and a barcode showing. There is another on the back of the bell housing. Also get pictures of the injector colors and the intake manifold. I am not normally online on Saturdays, but I will be at work manana. PM me when you are online and we can talk about any details you need clarification on...
Now, if you will recall our conversations around this previously, you can use the bottom end; ie the shortblock and bolt your heads to it. You will need new head gaskets, and you will use your intake manifold and wiring harness. That engine as it stand probably won't even plug into your chassis wiring harness. The engine can solve your problem, but not in it's current configuration.
And I would strongly consider finding another mechanic. If he can't figure out that the flex plate for the auto tranny and the flywheel bolt up to the engine the same way, he's having some issues. And the water pumps are interchangeable. Just pull the one off of your SOHC engine. Same thing with the timing belt pullies. You will need to to make it work with SOHC heads.
And as has been said, number of bolts doesn't matter. Bolts right up, but your starter will mount slightly differently. And use your exhaust and not the exhaust on the engine.
Shoot me some pictures of this engine if you want to be sure what it is. Show me the front of the timing belt covers if there is still an EJ25 number and a barcode showing. There is another on the back of the bell housing. Also get pictures of the injector colors and the intake manifold. I am not normally online on Saturdays, but I will be at work manana. PM me when you are online and we can talk about any details you need clarification on...
1974 Porsche 914 Cam Am Limted Edition AKA the Bumble Bee
1973 Porsche 914 2.0 l -Suby swap pending
1968 Porsche 911t survivor 47k original miles
2000 2.5RS daily driver.
1999 2.5RS w/ 50+ extra whp
Suby Hai!
1973 Porsche 914 2.0 l -Suby swap pending
1968 Porsche 911t survivor 47k original miles
2000 2.5RS daily driver.
1999 2.5RS w/ 50+ extra whp
Suby Hai!
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- Location: Seattle, WA
The picture snowjob put up is exactly what it looks like. As for my mechanic Matt, please understand that he hasn't touched my, much less looked at, my engine since May, so there were quite a few things that he had forgotten. When I mentioned what vg3 had said regarding what we can do to fix the problems, he chimed back that now he was remembering, and that it made perfect sense. He is extremely reliable.
As for picture Matt, that is my bane. I don't know how to post them with my digital, but what I *can* do is tuesday or wednesday evening, I can take several pictures with the camera on my phone (pretty hi-res, it's a razor v3) and e-mail them to you just fine. He's not even touching my car until a week from now so I have plenty of time to send you some goodies of the engine.
As for picture Matt, that is my bane. I don't know how to post them with my digital, but what I *can* do is tuesday or wednesday evening, I can take several pictures with the camera on my phone (pretty hi-res, it's a razor v3) and e-mail them to you just fine. He's not even touching my car until a week from now so I have plenty of time to send you some goodies of the engine.
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- quasi-mod-o
- Posts: 2574
- Joined: Sun Nov 09, 2003 8:24 pm
- Location: Ghetto Garage, CO, USA
- Contact:
If it looks just like the one posted, you will need to do what I said, change your heads over to your new bottom end...
1974 Porsche 914 Cam Am Limted Edition AKA the Bumble Bee
1973 Porsche 914 2.0 l -Suby swap pending
1968 Porsche 911t survivor 47k original miles
2000 2.5RS daily driver.
1999 2.5RS w/ 50+ extra whp
Suby Hai!
1973 Porsche 914 2.0 l -Suby swap pending
1968 Porsche 911t survivor 47k original miles
2000 2.5RS daily driver.
1999 2.5RS w/ 50+ extra whp
Suby Hai!